Bleeding Brakes

Bikepirate

Bikepirate

New member
Location
Brisbane Australia
I have completely overhauled the front Brembo brakes on my 750 SF1, replaced seals etc. Now trying to bleed the brakes but the fluid comes from the bleeder nipple threads rather than the nipple outlet. A forum member suggested using teflon tape around the threads. Is this required? Could be the nipple integral ball is stuck, but on three nipples?
Yes, I have read all the past posts on the subject and all very useful :)
 
Bikepirate said:
nipple integral ball
Click to expand...
Is there such a thing for brakes? It’s not a grease nipple. Are you sure it’s not blocked?
Teflon tape can help with the bleeding process but too much can affect how well the nipple seals against its seat. I haven’t used it myself, I just pressurise the system first then open the bleed nipple for only long enough to drain the pressure. Otherwise air can to get sucked back in via the threads.
 
Bleed nipples should seal by the taper at the end and small turn open the fluid should take path of least resistance, up the taper and through the holes before the thread. Best to take the nipples out and ensure a clear path through the holes.
Shouldn't use (or need) tape on those threads and nipples shouldn't have a ball check valve. (Not that I know of)
Perhaps wrong nipples have been installed?
 
Andy said:
Is there such a thing for brakes? It’s not a grease nipple. Are you sure it’s not blocked?
Teflon tape can help with the bleeding process but too much can affect how well the nipple seals against its seat. I haven’t used it myself, I just pressurise the system first then open the bleed nipple for only long enough to drain the pressure. Otherwise air can to get sucked back in via the threads.
Click to expand...
Sorry Andy, I didn't see your post, must have posted while I was typing...............
 
So the fluid stops coming out if you tighten the nipple down (not too tight!)? If it's coming from the threads wehen you're bleeding it mus mean the holes in thenipple are blocked. Easy to check.
 
remove all the nipples and with a wire or welders jet cleaner, be sure that the passage from inside the taper to outside is clear, blow with compressed air, then....... use some copper slip on the male thread, not too much, just a light coating (this also means you can always get them out without corrosion causing them to snap) this gives a seal on the threads and the fluid will pass through the nipple (route of least resistance) and not outside it, use a clear hose into a jar and bleed away, dont always use the full thrust of the lever, when you are nearly done you only need a slow repeating tickle to finish it off, very often with the nipples closed as the last remnants of air are expelled through the master cylinder reservoir.

CLEM
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top