bloody powder coaters
- Thread starter merlin
- Start date
Cosi
Hero member
- Location
- Kingscliff
1000/3C_Stefan said:
Court is open, Rob and Davo to the net please
D
Davo
Guest
1000/3C_Stefan said:Cosi said:1000/3C_Stefan said:
Court is open, Rob and Davo to the net please
Calm down guys, it refers to the desert environment your living in... 8)
You have a strange concept of desert. Just spent last weekend riding through flooding rains, about to bloody rain again this weekend. I guess that at least we haven't covered our roads in salt, enough of that in the paddocks as it is,
bsab31
Junior member
- Location
- st.austell, cornwall
Hi Dave,
If you are ever in need of a good quality powder coat job done locally in the future try Daften Engineering in Wadebridge,excellent quality,everything
masked off properly with proper heatproof tape,parts picked up & re-delivered to your door & a reasonable cost.Will catch up at Kit Hill again when
(if) the weather improves.
Regards,Jon.
If you are ever in need of a good quality powder coat job done locally in the future try Daften Engineering in Wadebridge,excellent quality,everything
masked off properly with proper heatproof tape,parts picked up & re-delivered to your door & a reasonable cost.Will catch up at Kit Hill again when
(if) the weather improves.
Regards,Jon.
A note on powdercoating frames. On the triple frame there is a gusset through which the swingarm spindle passes. On the outside of these gussets there is a spacer or washer spot welded to the gusset. Grease collects between the gusset and the washer. Unless this grease is removed before powdercoating, it will melt out during the heating process and will not allow the powdercoat to adhere properly.
Dennis
Dennis
ianpm77
Senior member
Hi all
Having worked at a powdercoating company for the last 10 years i thought i would give a few tips. (services engineer, machine maintenance engineer, by the way )
Not all !!!!! powdercoaters are thick !!!!! they have a very HOT hard job to do most of the time. Try walking in and out of a 220deg oven all day carrying heavy metal parts.
If it was me i would always get your parts stripped and light blasted before going to coaters. Take blasted parts as soon as you can too coaters before metal starts too "turn". This then allows "you" to do the hard work. Ask them there and then to give you a selection of thread bungs, thread caps and heat resistant masking tape. The bungs come in all sizes, "in" and "outs". You can then cover all the areas you do not want to get coating on. This also allows them to reduce their costs, as you have done all the hard work.
If they do not want you to "mask up".....walk away and take it to someone else.
Always try to take "all" your parts at once of the same colour , because changing colours in the "guns" to them wastes time and lots of money.
Try also to very lightly (with a file) round off all "square" edges off your parts...plates, frame lugs etc. As this will allow the powder to coat better and last longer. It will give the part edge more area.
It is very common for someone to come along, drop off a frame and then to find rubber and plastic parts "still" fixed to the bike frames. usually Harley frames ha ha. Side stand rubbers, tank rubbers etc. Coaters then with no time or knowledge or thought coat and "bake". Only to step on the soft mess on the floor of the oven when they walk out after. I am not there or about all the time and most of what they do to make "real" money is industrial fabricated parts. ( by the 1,000`s).
So the bottom line is....get the parts stripped and blasted first, spend your time "bunging up" with their bungs (they should have 10`s off 1,000`s) We would also give you a bag of them too take home first if you wanted. Earth studs 6mm etc., put a new washer on first then a bung. This will keep contact area free of coating and better earthing. After coating take off bung and washer. Ask them for information on where powder will get!!!! Every where!!!!! because it will. That is why it is a very good proccess. Remove bearings and taper seats. Use their heat ressistant tape to mask up housings or larger bungs to cover housing.........."Then pick a lovely colour"!!!!!!! Now that`s another Topic.....RAL NUMBERS and Taste!!!
Hope the above helps a little.
Ian
Northamptonshire.
Having worked at a powdercoating company for the last 10 years i thought i would give a few tips. (services engineer, machine maintenance engineer, by the way )
Not all !!!!! powdercoaters are thick !!!!! they have a very HOT hard job to do most of the time. Try walking in and out of a 220deg oven all day carrying heavy metal parts.
If it was me i would always get your parts stripped and light blasted before going to coaters. Take blasted parts as soon as you can too coaters before metal starts too "turn". This then allows "you" to do the hard work. Ask them there and then to give you a selection of thread bungs, thread caps and heat resistant masking tape. The bungs come in all sizes, "in" and "outs". You can then cover all the areas you do not want to get coating on. This also allows them to reduce their costs, as you have done all the hard work.
If they do not want you to "mask up".....walk away and take it to someone else.
Always try to take "all" your parts at once of the same colour , because changing colours in the "guns" to them wastes time and lots of money.
Try also to very lightly (with a file) round off all "square" edges off your parts...plates, frame lugs etc. As this will allow the powder to coat better and last longer. It will give the part edge more area.
It is very common for someone to come along, drop off a frame and then to find rubber and plastic parts "still" fixed to the bike frames. usually Harley frames ha ha. Side stand rubbers, tank rubbers etc. Coaters then with no time or knowledge or thought coat and "bake". Only to step on the soft mess on the floor of the oven when they walk out after. I am not there or about all the time and most of what they do to make "real" money is industrial fabricated parts. ( by the 1,000`s).
So the bottom line is....get the parts stripped and blasted first, spend your time "bunging up" with their bungs (they should have 10`s off 1,000`s) We would also give you a bag of them too take home first if you wanted. Earth studs 6mm etc., put a new washer on first then a bung. This will keep contact area free of coating and better earthing. After coating take off bung and washer. Ask them for information on where powder will get!!!! Every where!!!!! because it will. That is why it is a very good proccess. Remove bearings and taper seats. Use their heat ressistant tape to mask up housings or larger bungs to cover housing.........."Then pick a lovely colour"!!!!!!! Now that`s another Topic.....RAL NUMBERS and Taste!!!
Hope the above helps a little.
Ian
Northamptonshire.
Dick le Dog
Junior member
- Location
- France
Probably been mentioned elsewhere, but this guy has a pedigree and his work is good , very good
http://tpcs-magnesium-refurbs.co.uk/
http://tpcs-magnesium-refurbs.co.uk/