AJ
Senior member
- Location
- 38°33'00.0"S 177°55'00"E
http://www.gibbsbrandaustralia.com.au/drikko said:
Brembo brake disc appearance re conditioning
- Thread starter Paul LeClair
- Start date
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
AJ said:
Laser cleaning tool.
http://www.cleanlaser.de/wEnglish/produkte/high-power-cl-1000.php
I don't reckon you'd wanna clean your teeth with it.
Lav the impala
Senior member
The Gibbs lube is available in Oz at A$55 a can on special.
jacko.
jacko.
Simonr501
Hero member
- Location
- Lympne, Kent. UK
So what was wrong with WD40 Paul?
Not had any problems other than when my wife sprayed it inside a clock to lubricate the innards - the clock stopped eventually as apparently once the solvent has evaporated the lubricant goes like grease!
WD40 is not primarily a penetration fluid, it is a lubricant!
There was some stuff used on American aircraft carrier planes that was highly recommended - can't remember the name.
Stein Dinse do stainless Brembo type discs, although I thought 280 was the size for our beasts?
http://www.stein-dinse.biz/Complete-partlist/ABM/Brake-disc/Moto-Guzzi/Brake-disc-300mm-LM-1-3-inox::1651.html
Not had any problems other than when my wife sprayed it inside a clock to lubricate the innards - the clock stopped eventually as apparently once the solvent has evaporated the lubricant goes like grease!
WD40 is not primarily a penetration fluid, it is a lubricant!
There was some stuff used on American aircraft carrier planes that was highly recommended - can't remember the name.
Stein Dinse do stainless Brembo type discs, although I thought 280 was the size for our beasts?
http://www.stein-dinse.biz/Complete-partlist/ABM/Brake-disc/Moto-Guzzi/Brake-disc-300mm-LM-1-3-inox::1651.html
R
Reggie3cl
Guest
ACF50? Good stuff that.
Dingocooke
Senior member
- Location
- England
AJ said:
Looks great, who makes them, where do we get one?? So much better than shot/sand blasting!!
- Location
- Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Hi Simon
WD 40 is a solvent, a bit of a penetrant, will prevent rust, and will displace water. It is not, however, any sort of a lubricant, in my view anyway. I am not the only one who thinks so
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a6064/wd-40-vs-the-world-of-lubricants/
https://www.reddit.com/r/YouShouldKnow/comments/1wa9a6/ysk_wd40_is_a_solvent_not_a_lubricant_mistaking/
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28893/wd40-bearing-lubricant
even WD40 itself recognizes the limitations of the original WD40, and has brought out an extensive "Specialist" Product line to do the various things that the original WD 40 does not do, or does not do well.
http://wd40specialist.com/products
not trying to run down WD40, I just do not bother to use it. I do have some of the "Specialist" WD40 products, including the white lithium grease.
I have really liked using the Gibbs Brand the past couple of years, and am continuing to use it, just about to order another case of 12 spray cans from the Canadian distributor for $160 CAD plus shipping. Seems to be really effective in a variety of uses, with a much broader range of effectiveness than WD40. As I said earlier, everyone seems to have their personal favourite snake oil, not trying to convert anyone, and I would really like to know what is in the Gibbs Brand, the MSD didn't tell me much.
for brake discs, I have bead blasted and painted the three disc carriers, using VHT high gloss black brake caliper paint. I then baked them for two hours in the kitchen oven at 250 F to set the caliper paint. Couple of photos. I dropped the three discs and various fasteners and axle spacers off yesterday for yellow dichromate cadmium electroplating. I am hoping to have them back in a week or so.
Paul LeClair
WD 40 is a solvent, a bit of a penetrant, will prevent rust, and will displace water. It is not, however, any sort of a lubricant, in my view anyway. I am not the only one who thinks so
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a6064/wd-40-vs-the-world-of-lubricants/
https://www.reddit.com/r/YouShouldKnow/comments/1wa9a6/ysk_wd40_is_a_solvent_not_a_lubricant_mistaking/
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28893/wd40-bearing-lubricant
even WD40 itself recognizes the limitations of the original WD40, and has brought out an extensive "Specialist" Product line to do the various things that the original WD 40 does not do, or does not do well.
http://wd40specialist.com/products
not trying to run down WD40, I just do not bother to use it. I do have some of the "Specialist" WD40 products, including the white lithium grease.
I have really liked using the Gibbs Brand the past couple of years, and am continuing to use it, just about to order another case of 12 spray cans from the Canadian distributor for $160 CAD plus shipping. Seems to be really effective in a variety of uses, with a much broader range of effectiveness than WD40. As I said earlier, everyone seems to have their personal favourite snake oil, not trying to convert anyone, and I would really like to know what is in the Gibbs Brand, the MSD didn't tell me much.
for brake discs, I have bead blasted and painted the three disc carriers, using VHT high gloss black brake caliper paint. I then baked them for two hours in the kitchen oven at 250 F to set the caliper paint. Couple of photos. I dropped the three discs and various fasteners and axle spacers off yesterday for yellow dichromate cadmium electroplating. I am hoping to have them back in a week or so.
Paul LeClair
Attachments
- Location
- Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Reggie3cl said:
also Boeshield T9, I have several cans in the garage, an incredibly good penetrating lubricant, is apparently being used by a lot of the Bonneville Salt Flats racers to protect their vehicles from the salt.
http://boeshield.com/
for all you salt water sailors, the stuff works incredibly well for boats in a large number of areas.
Paul LeClair
Simonr501
Hero member
- Location
- Lympne, Kent. UK
Well I read most of the blurb on WD40 Paul!
To be honest they have tested it in quite extreme situations trying to explode the myth of invincibility.
I have never thought of it as a bearing lubricant or of course a penetrating oil, but I have used it exactly as it was intended - as a general purpose cleaning and lubricating spray with excellent water dispersal properties.
Funnily enough they agree with that.
I also use it to remove sticky labels.
For specialist uses I would use specialist fluids.
To be honest they have tested it in quite extreme situations trying to explode the myth of invincibility.
I have never thought of it as a bearing lubricant or of course a penetrating oil, but I have used it exactly as it was intended - as a general purpose cleaning and lubricating spray with excellent water dispersal properties.
Funnily enough they agree with that.
I also use it to remove sticky labels.
For specialist uses I would use specialist fluids.
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
I sometimes use WD40 as a cutting lubricant/coolant on small jobs. Been doing it a bit more than usual lately since the coolant pump that I use with my lathe stopped working.
- Location
- Calgary, Alberta, Canada
so with the wheels off the bike and the bike balanced on my lift table on its centre stand and four tie down straps, I have been picking away at small jobs waiting for the brake discs to come back from cadmium plating.
just installed some new wiring for Shindengen Mosfet regulator/rectifier, moved the Bosch relay for the horn, added a charging port, now the clear windscreen is removed from the Jota fairing to install a new tinted screen, the mirrors are off the handle bar ends to try another pair of mirrors, and the bike is starting to twitch nervously every time I step near it, likely afraid of being stripped naked again........
those brake discs better come back promptly before I get carried away...... 
Paul LeClair
just installed some new wiring for Shindengen Mosfet regulator/rectifier, moved the Bosch relay for the horn, added a charging port, now the clear windscreen is removed from the Jota fairing to install a new tinted screen, the mirrors are off the handle bar ends to try another pair of mirrors, and the bike is starting to twitch nervously every time I step near it, likely afraid of being stripped naked again........
those brake discs better come back promptly before I get carried away...... Paul LeClair
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
I was given a can of PB Blaster by the guy I work for - his previous company used to import it. It's got crazy stuff on the label like 'As seen on TV!' ... but fork me, it is the most incredible penetrant I've ever used.
if you want to know what cad plating looks like, I'm pretty sure an SF generator is cad plated - I could be wrong and it may be zinc ... I had mine replated and it looked smicko. I didn't realise it had been phased out a lot.
if you want to know what cad plating looks like, I'm pretty sure an SF generator is cad plated - I could be wrong and it may be zinc ... I had mine replated and it looked smicko. I didn't realise it had been phased out a lot.
GregT
Hero member
- Location
- Christchurch NZ
Traditional Cad plate is pretty much white in colour. I see Paul has gone for a dichromate wash so it will be interesting to see what colour it turns out.
Did they show you a sample of the finished colour Paul ?
Did they show you a sample of the finished colour Paul ?
- Location
- Calgary, Alberta, Canada
GregT said:
Hi Greg
the expert at the commercial plating operation recommended "yellow dichromate cadmium electroplating" as the best solution for my application, so I said yes. Can't say that I really know what that is....... :-[
the expert also told me that the yellow is "stronger" than the white, and that the yellow will last longer to prevent rust.
I have no idea what it is going to look like, I will post photos when I get them back. I am going to be happy with pretty much anything as long as it keeps the rust away 8)
Paul LeClair
GregT
Hero member
- Location
- Christchurch NZ
My experience is that the white lasts alright. First came into contact with it on Manxes in the 60's and 70's. Even into the late 70's original 50's Norton cad was like new.
I'd pick that the dichromate wash is probably better on salted roads.
I'd pick that the dichromate wash is probably better on salted roads.
- Location
- Calgary, Alberta, Canada
while the bike is sitting with its brakes/wheels off, I just fitted a smoke tinted Gustafsson windscreen and added some red trim. Although the Gustafsson screen fit better out of the packaging than the stock original screen ever did, I still had to do some trimming to get a better fit. Did the trimming with a belt sander clamped upside down in my vice, worked fairly well...
Paul LeClair
Paul LeClair
