Brembo broken bleed screws- any tricks?

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ghwallice

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Ipswich
I've got a few sets of twin bleed calipers with broken bleed screws. I was going to drill them out so I could use an easy out. Thought I might ask before I do it are there any little tricks I should try?

Regards, Greg
 
I heat empty caliper half up a fair amount and squirt light oil around broken nipple first. Don't drill right through nipple and catch the bottom surface or nipple will never seat. - Regards - Phil
 
ghwallice said:
I've got a few sets of twin bleed calipers with broken bleed screws. I was going to drill them out so I could use an easy out. Thought I might ask before I do it are there any little tricks I should try?

Regards, Greg
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Tried that. Ended up getting the broken nipple and broken easy fuckup out removed via spark erosion.  >:D
 
I use these easy outs - got from "Wurth" years ago don't often get a failure - there's a removed item  in one picture still attached to extractor. - regards - Phil
 

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If you decide to attempt to drill it out I would recommend using a left hand drill bit. Slow the speed down a little and apply a little bit more pressure than usual (be carefull here) and the nipple may spin out with the bit.
 
Get a flat washer that fits over the broken nipple, weld the nipple to the washer then weld a nut to the washer. The heat from the weld soaks the broken nipple and you have a nice hex to unscrew it with (work it back & forth as you remove & spray with penetrating fluid). Works for me. If that fails you still have the option of drilling & easyout or spark eroding.

Graham  :)
 
Hmmm. I've never heard of a left hand drill bit. Do I buy one from the same shop as checkered paint?
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Ask for it at your well sorted tool supply. Usually my first attemp on extracting snapped stud bolts and the like. They work a treat in 90% of all cases, and well worth the money (good ones about 6? in the proper size to extract a broken bleed nipple). Just follow gladmans advices on use.
 
another vote for left handed drill bits - another thing I wish i'd bought years earlier.

I'm just really pissed off that the ex-wife took my set with her when she buggered off - can't find another set of the same sizes for less than twice the price :(
 
Plus one for left hand drill bits, best things since sliced bread, but dont skimp on the quality as for sure with them you only get what you pay for.

Feel your pain with easyouts.. kind of old technology these days, way better mouse traps out there.

Spark erosion is your best friend when all else fails.
 
Brett said:
Spark erosion is your best friend when all else fails.
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By the time all else has failed, the caliper is likely ruined or at least badly damaged.  From what I've seen of botched repairs, it goes very wrong very fast and there's very little material around the nipple in the early calipers.  I would not recommend anyone who does not have a decent amount of machining experience attempt this, it's easy to get wrong and the calipers are by now pretty bloody rare.  Pay a few bucks to a spark erosion mob you can trust, or better send it to someone who have a track record of repairing them without ruining them.

An excellent tip is to go straight to an M7 thread and nipple... essentially invisible and much more resilient to future whoopsies.  I did it myself and used locally available Mazda nipples, alternatively parts and service available here:

http://bevelrubber.com.au/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=96
 
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