Cable routing

TeddyG

TeddyG

Hero member
Location
Portland Oregon
I'm correcting several things on this 750 I recently purchased, including replacing the worn choke, throttle, and clutch cables. But in looking over the existing routing, it appears wrong to me, with the choke cable getting pinched between the eyelet bracket. I'm thinking that all 3 cables should be fed thru that eyelet instead, but please advise if otherwise, thank you
routing.png
 
Good thought, but the choke cable splitter won't reach that far (unless the PO installed wrong/shorter cables) and it's just nestled above and near the coils, along w/ the cable splitter for the throttle. Again, I'm finding several things that were done wrong on this bike as I go thru it-
 
I can't remember how they were from new but I run choke and throttle cables in as straight a line as possible up from the carbs, both the splitters sit up level with the upper frame rail. The tighter any bends are the more prone to stiction and less prone to climbing up from where they sit on the carburettors. My clutch cable comes out past the front ignition coil sort of where your uppermost red arrow is. I find the clutch cable challenge being to get it in a nice curve past the headlight and instruments and down past the headstock. There are many different length cables being sold now too.
 
Thanks- I'm replacing all the cables and now see that the shorter pair of choke cables are @ 10" long and the shorter pair to the carb slides are @ 7" long, and all too short to reach that ring, and a splitter in that would collide w/ the lower yoke. It just must be to hold the longer cables, and I'll route them in as straight a line as possible to feed into the carbs smoothly. In replacing these cables I found that one of the anchors to hold a choke cable in place wasn't attached completely and the choke wasn't engaging properly. I'm going thru the bike and correcting details like this
 
Its for the choke splitter, take the advice of the well knowledged. Reads your main choke cable is either not terminated at the correct choke lever position, or it is incorrect in of itself. HTH j
 
Never seen that ring on an SF. Is it an SF3? I wouldn’t try to follow any specific guidelines used on the bike before. As Tippie has recommended, the key is to simply get from A to B with as little curvature and tight bends as possible.
 
My 3c is very different from standard so this probably only affects my bike, it needed care so that the clutch cable routing avoided the cable touching the ignition key and turning the engine off with big turns of the handlebars. Surprised me the first time that happened, another surprise was when the horn button would touch the tank bag I use also on big turns when parking. Thankfully never both together. The point is to check routing at full lock both ways or scare yourself. Early on my Atlas would pull on the throttle cable a tiny bit at full lock upping the revs by 500rpm, now fixed.
 
The eyelet is for clutch cable routing, the splitters on the 750s don't come anywhere near it. The choke splitter is located in such an eyelet on the triples only.

The eyelet was added to the horn bracket quite late in the production run.

piet
 
Personally i cant see any reason for running the choke cables right down there so i doubt that loop is for a splitter TBH.
 
Ahh beaten my Piet.
I used to stock all the Laverda cables but its a bit of a mine field because people just ordered this or that regardless. So people might order a Mirage throttle cable without saying they had clip ons or without telling you they had a none std throttle, A jota clutch cable was shorter than a 3c with higher bars etc. This coupled with the manufacturer not actually getting the nipples, adjusters and lengths right in the first place meant it was more hassle than it was worth.
 
One metal loop, different functions on twin and triple, stand corrected, apologies to TeddyG, ridden a few twins, never owned one. Obvious is at times, not obvious.

As Paddy intimates, correct bowden cable is matter of installed environment, hand make mine, including fabricating the inner cable brass terminations, and soldering of same. The times ( recently ) also, where brand new after market assemblies, the choke cables inner end compressed termination does not even go close to fitting the brass plunger gasket retainer. Rooting around hand filling the termination to fit without compromising the reliability of said same termination...times 3, no saving in money as it takes up to an hour, so fiddly filing it into shape. j
 
Thanks again all- sfcpiet- you are on the money. And yes, the 2 into 1 splitters are no where near that ring, but I knew it had to be for something. The main thing I found and corrected was the main choke cable was being pinched there- also a choke cable guide on the carb was loosely attached. This partially explains why the bike wouldn't idle when I started it up after it arrived (also dirty gas filters and clogged/broken air filter). I'm finding several "surprises" as I go thru it, but this Forum and Green Book has been extremely helpful.
 
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