Callipers seals

ajs18s

New member
I need to replace the seals in the callipers on my 3C as they leak, my question is how do I know what to order, are there different callipers on different years. Are they also marked with a number to identify the model.
Is there a post on this site showing how to do such a job?
All help much appreciated.
 
Original calipers on 3C are designated Brembo P2F08 (same front and rear on 3CL). I don't remember the piston diameter. 38mm comes to mind but don't quote me on that.

They come in a few variants - single bleed screw, twin bleed screw, threaded or un-threaded mounting lugs, left or right hand, but none of that matters for buying new seal kits. They all have the same hydraulic components. The 08 designation is all the info you need to get the correct seals.

Just google "Brembo 08 caliper rebuild kit" and you'll find what you need, which is one kit for each caliper. There are several suppliers in Australia. The kits come with new pistons that have what looks like a teflon coating, new piston seals, outer dust seals, a small o-ring and a little sachet of assembly grease. The little o-ring goes between the caliper halves. Some kits also have new socket head bolts that hold the two caliper halves together, and new pad locating pins and springs. I'd suggest you go for a kit that has the lot. That way you end up with a caliper as good as new. Actually it'll be better than new because the new slippery coated pistons are better than the old un-coated type.

Kits don't normally come with new bleed screws (one or two as the case may be) so be gentle getting them out as you'll need to re-use them. They're hollow and can break quite easily if you're heavy-handed. A bit of heat will help if they're stuck. Once the caliper is stripped down to its bare halves you can use a propane torch to heat it because there's no rubber components to catch fire. Don't go too berserk with the heat though. A melted caliper would certainly get the bleed screw out, but it wouldn't be an ideal outcome.

Sometimes it's difficult to get the original steel pistons out of the calipers because they rust and seize in their bores. I've found compressed air helpful, and occasionally a bit of heat too. Just wrap a rag around the caliper half before blowing the piston out with compressed air so it doesn't hit you in the face like a champagne cork. Some mechanics recommend pumping stuck calipers out with a grease gun, but I've never had a suitable fitting to attach a grease hose to a caliper.

Brembo 08 caliper kit.JPG
 
a good tip is to remeber to crack loose the bolts that secure the calliper halves together BEFORE, you unbolt them from the fork legs, they dont fix too well in a bench vice. Grease and the side lever pump is a realy good way to get the pistons out, years ago I made up an adapter from a banjo hose end to a grease nipple socket, the grease is messy but very satisfying, even if the unit has been in the sea for a decade..
CLEM
 
The P08 38mm pistons are not generally included in the OE Brembo rebuild/seal kits, these are sold in pairs and must be purchased seperately. The seal kits include the rubber seals and new bolts only. Pad locating pins also need to be purchased seperately. If steel pistons are still fitted, it is advisable to swap them out for the newer alloy type to prevent future corrosion/seizure. Any steel pistons still in use will probably be knackered anyway.

Cam, most grease guns will fit the bleed nipple nicely! Just one helluva mess to clean up afterwards.

piet
 
Cam, most grease guns will fit the bleed nipple nicely! Just one helluva mess to clean up afterwards.
Thanks Piet. I was thinking I'd need to make an adaptor to go in the M10 x 1 hose input.

It never occurred to me to plug the hose inlet and use the bleeder as a grease nipple because the threads invariably leak when the bleeder is backed out to open the orifice. I suppose thread tape would minimise leakage. Not that I've ever needed to resort to hydraulics to shift a piston. Compressed air has always worked for me and makes less mess!

My old grease gun is a piece of shit anyway. It leaks everywhere. I've been meaning to buy a new one for years but I never remember when I'm shopping for tools. This has reminded me so I'll order one online now.

Cam
 
Thanks Piet. I was thinking I'd need to make an adaptor to go in the M10 x 1 hose input.

It never occurred to me to plug the hose inlet and use the bleeder as a grease nipple because the threads invariably leak when the bleeder is backed out to open the orifice. I suppose thread tape would minimise leakage. Not that I've ever needed to resort to hydraulics to shift a piston. Compressed air has always worked for me and makes less mess!

My old grease gun is a piece of shit anyway. It leaks everywhere. I've been meaning to buy a new one for years but I never remember when I'm shopping for tools. This has reminded me so I'll order one online now.

Cam
Pretty easy to adapt an old nipple, just remove the tapered sealing tip and grease won't have to squeeze its way through the tiny bleed hole. Thread tape does help.

Many nipples are deformed at the sealing tip, especially those that have been stubborn to remove. It seems most "mechanics" don't know the workings of a tapered seal and apply far too much torque after bleeding. Best to replace the nipples as a matter of course when overhauling the calipers.

piet
 
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