Cam Chain Replacement

hooksey

Hero member
Location
Vic , Australia
G,day Fellas,

Can anyone let me know the tried and tested way to replace
the cam chain ?? Donk in situ, cams buttoned down.
81 Jota.

Thanks in advance, Hooksey  :-\
 
Turn the cams so all valves are closed then pull the new chain through with the old by turning the motor by hand. The rear tensioner blade will need to be removed. I hang a weight on the free end of the new chain which alows me to maintain tension on the other end whilst turning the crank, otherwise you need three hands.


    Keith
 
laverdakeith said:
Turn the cams so all valves are closed then pull the new chain through with the old by turning the motor by hand. The rear tensioner blade will need to be removed. I hang a weight on the free end of the new chain which alows me to maintain tension on the other end whilst turning the crank, otherwise you need three hands.


   Keith

Keith, Hooksey is in Australia, he will need at least eight hands
one set to turn the engine
one set to hold each end of the chain and control the job, we hope
another set to maintain the fluid supply (piss) to the workers
last set just idle and supervising, flapping the dog so to speak

:D

 
Don't forget to make sure no pistons are at TDC when turning cams over by hand or that you don't clump any of the opposite cam's valves - last item more applicable to 120 motors. - Regards - Phil
 
Thanks  Lads ,

So once old chain split will cams spin around and valves close ?
or will they need to be turned manually ?
I take it if i can spin buckets by finger valves r closed ..

Red , Try and keep the numbers in shed to three otherwise the fridge
drys up at a rate of knots , and i figure the bloke thats laying idle
flingin the shite can fetch the cans for the workers  :P
 
Dave, I just replaced a cam chain the other week so I can give advice based on all the wrong ways to do it. For christs sake remove the cam shafts and then follow Keith's advice. Also get the missus to help by turning the crank over on the big nut behind the primary cover while you feed and pull chains around. You could set up a weight and pulley but you might get some points from the missus for doing some inclusive stuff with her. Oh yeah, drain the oil and remove the primary cover as well.  There might even be an ignition system there somewhere too. If you have a Sachse check that every thing on the end of the crank is spinning with it, not independently as I discovered.  :'( Have fun. Call me for a hand if you need it but make sure there is some quality Tassie beer in the fridge first.
Rocket
 
I always found it a one man job.
Easy, especially when you drop the cam chain down the tunnel, fish it out and re-attach it. Then a few miles later the cam chain snaps because the fished-out chain is actually driving off the SIDE of the crank sprocket, not actually ON the sprocket. Wedged between sprocket and crank web.
Oh how I laughed as I replaced valves and fished out the debris from the sump.
 
Ouch, nasty one Grant :'( guess that could be avoided by looking up through the cam pedastel cover to check its properly seated...need to drain oil, plainly and crawl around on the garage floor with a torch probably....but worth it to avoid such a disaster?
Nick7
 
New  Iwis chain installed , connected the new chain to old and pulled it through
by  hand turning crank with cams still buttoned down  xtra pair of hands came in
handy !!

That tensioner blade once installed takes up alot of slack  :o

Thanks to one and all for your input.

Jota ready to fly up the Monroe to sin city for the Bazza  :P
Hooksey.
 
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