Cam Chain Tension Check - 120 engine (yes, I looked in the archive)

Simonr501

Simonr501

Hero member
Location
Lympne, Kent. UK
Nothing wrong with the engine, I just wanted to check!
I used to play with the primary chain tension, but it never changed so got bored with that. I need something new to play with. :D :D

I searched the archives and the best was (on a 180) take cam cover off, turn engine over until inlet and exhaust cams have spring pressure on, check slack in the chain created between cam wheels - 5mm either way.

Does this apply to the 120? I suppose in theory somewhere the cams are loaded at any point in rotation and thus I can check at any point?


 
try and load the camshafts so they are pushing the top of the sprockets towards each other.  i.e chain is loose between the sprockets.
reckon that's the idea?

inlet camshaft is trying to rotate as running, and exhaust camshaft is trying to counter-rotate.

,,  but i no nothing about 120?'s.  i am from the canefields ay.  ;)
 
The RGS workshop manual advises centre cylinder at TDC.  Being anal, I check at several points.  Just heave on the cam chain to pull against the valve spring pressure and ensure 10mm total displacement with a cold engine.  But why fiddle when it's not needed?  ???
 
Can't somebody deign a nice  fuss free auto-tensioner..like the one in my old Suzuki Drz...though they did self destruct And have to be re-designed!Recall the ole CX500 anf Vf cam chain disasters too....what is it with tensioning chains?
 
Or get a 2 stroke, or a rotary? Or use belts....are they easier to tension?Audi went back to chains I think...
 
Very interesting but needs a lot of refinement for road use.

Just watch F1 when they fail it is usually down to hydraulic or air
pressure.

And as with most good ideas the complexity of the systems controlling
the whole thing must need a computer expert not a mechanic........
hold on its like that already.

Still like the idea tho even if it will amke chains redundant.

Andy
 
Simon,

Same applies to 120? as 180? timing chains.  Follow Robs advice, give the chain a good tug against the spring pressure to ascertain play, you're not strong enough to actually stretch the chain... :D

Nothing wrong with manual chain adjustment.  Automatic adjusters generally allow a huge amount of slack before they kick in to re-adjust.  Often, they're flogged to death by the chain before that happens.

Reckon it couldn't be too difficult to modify the triple adjuster to a spring-loaded type as on the 750.  Working out correct spring tension would be the most difficult bit.

piet
 
andychain said:
And as with most good ideas the complexity of the systems controlling
the whole thing must need a computer expert not a mechanic........
hold on its like that already.
Click to expand...

Artificial intelligence is the way of the future, Andy. People like you and me are dinosaurs.
 
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