cam cover touching engine studs

Dennis.

What is the cam chain, it looks like Regina but not all the plates are marked and where they are it doesnt look like the Regina mark. Compare the pics and you can clearly see the log.

While its apart shove a new Regina or iwis on it.

Andy

Better put.......buy it where you like.
 
I looked closely at your pictures Dennis,blowing them up until they fragmented even, because of Andys comments about the chain, if my eyes dont decieve me that chain musty be 20+ years old, they dont make them with loverly big fat rivet heads like that anymore.

In the bottom picture (exhaust cam) is that two washers I can see under the 8mm nut on the short stud?
getting a bit worried again........
CLEM
 
This is a general and probably silly question, not particularly about this component.... but I'm about to delve into Laverda internals and I'm no engineer...

Quote from earlier: "Torque for the 8mm studs is 28N/m maximum.  The alloy of the head just might withstand 30-32N/m, but that's really pushing your luck!"

So, do you set your wrench for 28N/m or should you start lower? If so, what are you looking for to know that a lower figure works OK?  It's the "maximum" that made me think.

Thanks, Andrew
 
Hi Clem, no it's only one washer, stamped out poorly I think. The chain is NOS, came straight out of Laverda packaging and was  wrapped in Regina waxed paper. I think all is well here now.    Dennis
 
andrew112_uk said:
Quote from earlier: "Torque for the 8mm studs is 28N/m maximum.  The alloy of the head just might withstand 30-32N/m, but that's really pushing your luck!"
Click to expand...

I wouldn't go above 25 for the 8mm studs, never had leaks with this value and I don't really like to push my luck with these soft crankcases!

 

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Hi Andrew, and don't forget that torque wrenches have a tolerance on their torque delivery too - DIY standard ones obviously greater than pro-models. Age and use can make them move further away from nominal. All in all, torquing those studs is like paying Russian Roulette really.

Be lucky, chaps.
 
Thanks for the answers... I see, lowest that keeps it oil tight. I bought a new t-wrench which is a huge improvement on my old one, but not professional I guess. Stand by everyone... once I get spannering, the technical section will get a few hits!
 
J-LO - that's interesting - I hadn't seen a figure for the outer two domed nuts before.

AFWIW, a decent quality torque wrench (I use Norbar) is a surprisingly accurate device with repeatability of 0.65% and accuracy +1.5% at 20% FSD according to the calibration certificate I have....it gets even more accurate the higher up the scale.  In other words, you can ignore this issue: for my wrench a reading of 20Nm will be 20.17-20.3Nm.  I sent in an obsolete wrench for recalibration - it was found to be still within ISO limits after 30 years of use!
 
Dennis

NOS........I have been around for years and never heard of it. In the same way that some chains have apparently come out of Regina wrapping with 3M. I still like the Regina product but would go with Clem on the age. It would advisable to change it whilst the engine is stripped. All modern quality product has a different rivet form.

There again if you are happy to leave who am I to interfere just enjoy your bike.

Andy
 
Just googled NOS Chain, DONG BO CHAIN Company of Korea, looks like somebody has done a swap and I go back to my change plea.

Andy
 
Andy, have you been on the cider this eve...

New Old Stock !

Funny air in Bewdley this time of year?
 
Scrumpy I agree mate but nobody stams NOS on the plates, also the Korean company produces from scratch......confused now.

I'll get me coat. :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
 
G'day Andy.

You won't find NOS stamped on the side plates. It's not a brand name.

NOS = New Old Stock. A commonly used acronym that refers to original parts that have never been used. It can refer to anything - chains, bearings, pistons, cycle parts... well, everything really. NOS parts are much sought after by restorers. Sometimes as rare as hens teeth and worth their weight in gold.

In Dennis' case it means it's an unused chain from the original stock of Regina chains that Laverda used. Should be perfectly OK for many thousands of km.

Funny thing is that when I first came across the word NOS, I though it was a manufacturer's name too. Then I started seeing it all over the place and thought "Wow, this NOS crowd makes a lot of stuff"  :D

Cheers,
Cam
 
andrew112_uk said:
So, do you set your wrench for 28N/m or should you start lower?
Click to expand...

Andrew,

General practice is to start off all nuts/bolts with a figure far lower than the final required torque.  With cylinder heads, start in the midddle with a rotating or criss-cross pattern till all have been tightened, in the case of a Lav triple, the 9mm nuts only.  The outer7mm and 8mm studs can be tightened during this procedure after the 9mm studs have been done.  The 8mm studs have no influence on the seating of the head gasket but be sure the cam bearings seat properly without squashing themselves on the edges of the locating slot in the head, the resulting alloy filett under the bearing will cause the cam to jam.  Increase the wrench setting in 2-3 steps till the required torque is attained.  

The theory is to settle the head slowly and evenly on the gasket instead of tightening completely in one spot, then the next.  The head undergoes quite a bit of bending if this is done.  Starting from the middle allows the head to "squeeze" the gasket uniformly to both ends of the cylinder.  If tightened at the ends first, a bulging of the gasket would result in the middle, stressing both the head and the gasket and leaks are quite likely.

I stated 28N/m maximum as there are varying figures floating around, some of these will have you ripping out your studs long before you reach them!

HTH,
piet
 
Dellortoman said:
Funny thing is that when I first came across the word NOS, I though it was a manufacturer's name too. Then I started seeing it all over the place and thought "Wow, this NOS crowd makes a lot of stuff"  :D

Cheers,
Cam
Click to expand...

NOS have been bought out by OEM !

Rob
 
Robjota said:
Dellortoman said:
Funny thing is that when I first came across the word NOS, I though it was a manufacturer's name too. Then I started seeing it all over the place and thought "Wow, this NOS crowd makes a lot of stuff"  :D

Cheers,
Cam
Click to expand...

NOS have been bought out by OEM !

Rob
Click to expand...

I thought OEM were a division of CE Corporation, the manufacturers of CE Body Armour, CE Printer Cartridges etc ?
 
Yes, that right. CE are a bloody huge company, based in a German town called Ausfahrt. Ausfahrt is easy to find, every motorway exit sign shows you the way.
 
I am glad I have spread some joy but I blame it on the 7%+ Barbourne cider that I had last night as I had run out of Strongbow, blame Cyderworks. :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
 
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