Choke cable mount debacle.

M

Magoo

New member
Location
New Mexico
New guy here. I am working on bringing a 1983 RGS 1000 back to life for a friend after it has sat for many years. I now have it running off a bottle and have rebuilt and serviced the clutch system which was why it got parked.
It was partially disassembled when I received it but as far as I can tell I was given all of the parts that are needed.

My question is about how to mount the choke lever. It was in a bag with the lever and a bracket. I have tried all kinds of combinations to try to get it to line up properly with no joy. Could someone send me a pic of the proper installation configuration? As of now I am either missing a part or have run out of talent.

Here’s a pic of what I have:
IMG_2880.jpeg
 
Should be mounted under the clutch lever top side down. The angled part should be fixed in the gap of the clamps where the lever body is fixed to th handlebar, the other part is fixe by the axis screw of the lever.
Good luck
Andre
 
The bracket is fixed to the underside of the clutch lever perch. The lever pivot screw goes into the elongated hole with the nut holding the bracket, the other fits between the perch and the clamp to the handlebar. The actual lever and pivot should be adjusted for correct friction before attaching the assembly to the clutch perch.

piet
 
andre g said:
Should be mounted under the clutch lever top side down. The angled part should be fixed in the gap of the clamps where the lever body is fixed to th handlebar, the other part is fixe by the axis screw of the lever.
Good luck
Andre
Click to expand...
Duplizität der Ereignisse... ;)

piet
 
And the choke lever assembly should be fitted to the opposite side to what is shown in your pic...

piet
 
Thanks for the replies! I’m gonna go out to my shop and give it a whirl.

On another note I am wondering if I am missing a piece on the end of the idle adjustment knob. The knob is turned to the point that the spring is compressed and won’t go any further. As it is I can’t get the idle quite high enough. I’m guessing I am missing a piece on top of the adjustment screw. Here’s a pic:
IMG_2881.jpeg
 
I had the same problem on one of my bikes. There is no part missing, it is just at the end of the posibility to adjust.
Maybe there is an other root cause which I did not find. I just made a bigger plastic part on my lathe and fixed it on the top of the adjuster screw.
 
Magoo said:
On another note I am wondering if I am missing a piece on the end of the idle adjustment knob. The knob is turned to the point that the spring is compressed and won’t go any further. As it is I can’t get the idle quite high enough. I’m guessing I am missing a piece on top of the adjustment screw. Here’s a pic:
Click to expand...
There's nothing missing. Once carburation is set and the carbs balanced, the screw ought to give you a high enough tickover.
What RPM is it currently ticking over at?
 
It looks like someone has tried bending the actuator a little to give more adjustment. Like Andre, I also added a small knob on the end, although I don’t quite need it when I’ve tuned it as well as I can. I find the balance goes out quite quickly and I need the extra adjustment until I can get back in my shed.
 
If you'd all check the fixing of the internal throttle bell cranks on their shafts, the carb balance might not go out the window so fast... this can also be the cause for the idle stop screw being too short at one end. Second most common cause is worn linkage bushes, perhaps the very last items that ever recieve any TLC, ie, a drop of lube.

With excessive slop in the linkage and associated bits, the adjuster screw is at its limits before it can lift the slides.

piet
 
Thanks again for the replies! I don’t know what RPM it is idling at because I don’t currently have the instruments mounted.
All I know is the idle smooths out with just a slight twist of the grip.
It sounds like I’m not the only one that thought about making a “cap” of some sort to make the idle screw work better and be more accessible.

All of my current bikes are Japanese or German. I’ve worked on some Italian bikes a few times over the years and they certainly have their quirks.
 
Magoo said:
Thanks again for the replies! I don’t know what RPM it is idling at because I don’t currently have the instruments mounted.
All I know is the idle smooths out with just a slight twist of the grip.
It sounds like I’m not the only one that thought about making a “cap” of some sort to make the idle screw work better and be more accessible.

All of my current bikes are Japanese or German. I’ve worked on some Italian bikes a few times over the years and they certainly have their quirks.
Click to expand...
Laverdas don't have any real quirks per se imho, it's just that they require a bit more regular and thorough maintenance. With that, they can be as reliable and enjoyable as any other.

piet
 
Murphus, thanks for the pic of the choke lever mounted.

As for the idle adjustment screw I think I’m gonna take it off, measure the top, and run a die over it so I can thread a nut onto it.
 
I think your carb mounting plate is bowed or bent, that may well be why the tickover screw is missing its landing point on the metal skid, it is rounded to aid movement of it, a nut would leave a very sharp edge.
CLEM
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top