CLEAN Engine Parts!!!!

motoddrob said:
What did you finish the frame with?
Cases look great.
Click to expand...
I powdercoated the frame silver, about 25 years ago, because I could find no one in the US that would do white cadmium, and I had access to a powdercoating facility. The cases were vapor-blasted, they look new!
 
The frame on mine is looking it's age but I'm reluctant to refinish it which would mean removing the original cable ties.
The majority of my frame has never been fucked with, with most of the nuts/bolts still in place from when it left the factory.
Bike still polishes up nicely but the frame shows it's age/use. It's only original once and it has patina.
 
motoddrob said:
The frame on mine is looking it's age but I'm reluctant to refinish it which would mean removing the original cable ties.
The majority of my frame has never been fucked with, with most of the nuts/bolts still in place from when it left the factory.
Bike still polishes up nicely but the frame shows it's age/use. It's only original once and it has patina.
Click to expand...
Rob, keep it as it is! Ciao, Gert
 
motoddrob said:
The frame on mine is looking it's age but I'm reluctant to refinish it which would mean removing the original cable ties.
The majority of my frame has never been fucked with, with most of the nuts/bolts still in place from when it left the factory.
Bike still polishes up nicely but the frame shows it's age/use. It's only original once and it has patina.
Click to expand...
Mine had been raced back in the 70's, some parts were pretty rough. I rode the bike for many years and then pulled it apart to clean it up. Patina is great on one or two owner garage queens, but mine was a rider in weather for years. If I was starting on it today, I would fine blast the frame and do a matt nickle finish. No corrosion or discoloration in the future, and it would be close to the original matt cadmium. I was torn between doing a original restoration, or a resto-mod. I have decided to upgrade the ignition, spokes, and brakes. It will still be a rider, but it will look a lot better.
 
The dodgy nickel plating on my SF frame was powder coated 25 years ago after peeling began on places with two layers. After sandblasting it back then and 3 years ago for the SFQ project the nickel has proven a bonus in virtually eliminating the problem of rust. Only where welds have been added is there any sign of surface rust. I'd be tempted to do it again to any frame as a protective 'undercoat'.
 
There are cable ties and there are cable ties!!
Never seen any replacements anything like the original.
Once I ŕemove the cable ties it opens a can of worms that cost too many $$ and too many hours. Think I'll leave it as it is
😀
 
Not easy to exactly replicate the original finish of the castings. But it returns with time and use. A vapour blasted case will look its best 20000km later.

piet
 
sfcpiet said:
Not easy to exactly replicate the original finish of the castings. But it returns with time and use. A vapour blasted case will look its best 20000km later.

piet
Click to expand...
You're talking about the colour though right? not the actual texture? Does vapour blasting change the texture?
 
Yes. Vapour blasting smoothes the surface, factory finish was quite rough.

The closest I've managed was with used aluminium oxide grit. Crushed glass works well too. Takes at least 5 times as long as the blasting process to clean. Insides of the cases should not be blasted.

piet
 
The first triple I did, I looked at replicating the faint pale green colour on the cases.
Did the research including asking an old mate who was at the time chief engineer of the Alpine Fighter collection here in NZ.
It seems to have been a NATO spec chromate - which is now unobtainable.
He offered me an alternative chromate which he said could then be painted to match. Just left them bare in the end.

i can only assume it was used because the foundry had it on hand for helicopter parts.

I've made machined alloy parts look like as-cast. Used coarse grades of glass bead at higher than usual pressure to get a texture on the surface.
Takes practice but can be done.
 
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