Clutch dragging?

hooksey said:
One would assume that to change too a Dam easy clutch Mechanism ,that you have gone through this process already... No ?
Hence why you have found a ball bearing rolling rnd your garage floor  ::)
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You could assume but you would be wrong. I had my local mechanic fit it, in his workshop, so I'm stumped how a ball bearing can suddenly appear on my garage floor. From the looking at the manual the lower case seems to be where the shifting mechanism is so I'll start there to make sure nothing's wrong. Does that case have oil in it?
 
cbertozz said:
You could assume but you would be wrong. I had my local mechanic fit it, in his workshop, so I'm stumped how a ball bearing can suddenly appear on my garage floor. From the looking at the manual the lower case seems to be where the shifting mechanism is so I'll start there to make sure nothing's wrong. Does that case have oil in it?
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If you paid to have it done then take it back and get it redone...........IMHO I would have left it as it was at the get go, DPO had fitted one to the 3C the Jota dont got one... the 3C clutch always drags ( but have new cover now so all got to do is get round to it and off it comes ) the Jota on the other hand is standard set up... much better action, no drag and aint that bad... even in traffic... in fact no heavier that the series 2 hydraulic unit on the Cico in fact would say a tad lighter.

Yes has oil in it the cover that does.  You can lay the bike over on its side or on another thread you are investigating the nuetral light switch so assume you aint got oil in the donk anyways.

Where are you located ?
 
cbertozz said:
You could assume but you would be wrong. I had my local mechanic fit it, in his workshop, so I'm stumped how a ball bearing can suddenly appear on my garage floor. From the looking at the manual the lower case seems to be where the shifting mechanism is so I'll start there to make sure nothing's wrong. Does that case have oil in it?
Click to expand...
Your mechanic obviously hasnt installed it correctly if an aggot has dropped out .  :o Sounds like you need to get the bike to Greg at Dam Laverda (Springvale ) has been playing/racing with these things for a longgg time, he will get you sorted  ;)
 
Perth, Western Australia. Might see if I can get Greg from DAM to speak with my mechanic and then we might get a better result.


Brett said:
If you paid to have it done then take it back and get it redone...........IMHO I would have left it as it was at the get go, DPO had fitted one to the 3C the Jota dont got one... the 3C clutch always drags ( but have new cover now so all got to do is get round to it and off it comes ) the Jota on the other hand is standard set up... much better action, no drag and aint that bad... even in traffic... in fact no heavier that the series 2 hydraulic unit on the Cico in fact would say a tad lighter.

Yes has oil in it the cover that does.  You can lay the bike over on its side or on another thread you are investigating the nuetral light switch so assume you aint got oil in the donk anyways.

Where are you located ?
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Carlo, what size is the ball bearing that you found ?
Laverda clutch push rods have 1 x 1/4" ball between the clutch rods themselves which cannot fall out and a 5/16" ball that sits in the clutch actuating arm in the sprocket cover that the clutch rod bears on
I'd be surprised if you could even adjust the clutch to a point where it even worked with the 5/16" ball missing but may be wrong
Actuating arm would bottom out on the backside of the pivot plate before you had a working clutch with the ball missing

it would be possible for your mechanic to misplace that 5/16" ball when he changed to the DAM deal I suppose, it would have needed to have been taken out and reinstalled with a dob of grease when the new actuating arm was installed
ball could have been sitting in the bottom of your sprocket cover and fallen on the floor at a later date
if you measure the size of the ball everyone would have a better idea of what you are up against

Paul at Retro Moto in Fremantle has worked on a number of Laverda's now and is getting quite familiar with them or is that where you took the bike to ?
Sent him inner and outer gearbox/sprocket cover gaskets last week, they weren't for your bike ?




 
Hi Red

Obvious question, having measured the ball bearing it appears to be too small, not even 5mm
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwtXqk1hlmePeER6dVc3YlVBYTg/view?usp=drivesdk

I use a mob called Protwin who are good to deal with and although they have had limited experience with Laverda recently I've now made sure they have the workshop manuals etc. Good to know there are other options though.






redax5 said:
Carlo, what size is the ball bearing that you found ?
Laverda clutch push rods have 1 x 1/4" ball between the clutch rods themselves which cannot fall out and a 5/16" ball that sits in the clutch actuating arm in the sprocket cover that the clutch rod bears on
I'd be surprised if you could even adjust the clutch to a point where it even worked with the 5/16" ball missing but may be wrong
Actuating arm would bottom out on the backside of the pivot plate before you had a working clutch with the ball missing

it would be possible for your mechanic to misplace that 5/16" ball when he changed to the DAM deal I suppose, it would have needed to have been taken out and reinstalled with a dob of grease when the new actuating arm was installed
ball could have been sitting in the bottom of your sprocket cover and fallen on the floor at a later date
if you measure the size of the ball everyone would have a better idea of what you are up against

Paul at Retro Moto in Fremantle has worked on a number of Laverda's now and is getting quite familiar with them or is that where you took the bike to ?
Sent him inner and outer gearbox/sprocket cover gaskets last week, they weren't for your bike ?
Click to expand...
 
This is inside the gear selector cover, thought I'd have a quick look

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwtXqk1hlmePa1o0WGxvdTlPVm8/view
view



The only thing I could do was make sure the marks were lined up.
 
redax5 said:
Paul at Retro Moto in Fremantle has worked on a number of Laverda's now and is getting quite familiar with them or is that where you took the bike to ?
Sent him inner and outer gearbox/sprocket cover gaskets last week, they weren't for your bike ?
Click to expand...

Got photo's of a 1200 and SF in his gallery so worked on at least 2.
 
Ok so I had the gear selector cover off today, and watched how it worked when I move the gear selector lever.  Having now ridden the bike around my local park a few too many times for my neighbors I have a good idea of what I think is happening, albeit not why. ( I am not at all mechanical)

The part is the one I have ringed in red that I think is the superficial problem, I think its called the 'shift foot'?
normal_gearselector_002.jpg


When I move the gear lever this part doesnt always connect with the selector spindle, which is what I observed with the cover off. This explains why sometime when riding I shift and all I feel is the movement but the shift foot doesnt connect with the selector spindle on the way up (or on the way down) Mostly when I move the gear selector very slowly the gears work well, but when you try and kick it up at speed it doesnt, either way its not consistent.

Some hypotheses:

I note in the maintanance guide that its important that the shift foots movement is equal up and down. Perhaps that could be related, have to check that out although not sure how to measure its movement accurately.

Second though is the spring that connets the shft foot to the moving selector shaft - the spring points up at the top and this looks like it might be connecting with the top of the case, which could cause the shift foot to jump out of alignment.

Thoghts welcome please.
 
From my poor memory, that spring should clip into the hole visible to the left. If that is the case it may be only loosely abutting the selector drum. Is the spring broken?

Just searched my collection of photos's. Confirmed my memory is correct. Your spring is broken and should be bent another 90 degrees and clipped into that empty hole.
 
Davo said:
From my poor memory, that spring should clip into the hole visible to the left. If that is the case it may be only loosely abutting the selector drum. Is the spring broken?

Just searched my collection of photos's. Confirmed my memory is correct. Your spring is broken and should be bent another 90 degrees and clipped into that empty hole.
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There you Davo,the spring is broken thank you and goodnight!!!  :D :D :D

normal_selectorclip.jpg


I had spotted a problem but not quite the reason, thanks for that keen observation and now it seems so obvious! This is why sometimes the mechanism works almost perfectly when I move slowly through the box but then if I am a tiny bit quick there isn't enough pressure on the selector foot to keep it in contact with the spindle and voila!

Will get a new spring and report back. It's been an interesting second foray into Breganze mecahnicca has been very informative. Thanks to everyone who kept chipping in, it kept me looking.
 
If the shift mechanism was put together like that by a bike workshop (as you had the clutch lever installed by them, they also had the shifter apart), I think you should look elsewhere! :o

Laverdas are not rocket science, setting up the shifter should easily be in the scope of even the most ham-fisted "mechanic".  The broken spring is so very obvious... seems they obtained the manuals only to make a good impression. ::)

piet
 
sfcpiet said:
If the shift mechanism was put together like that by a bike workshop (as you had the clutch lever installed by them, they also had the shifter apart), I think you should look elsewhere! :o

Laverdas are not rocket science, setting up the shifter should easily be in the scope of even the most ham-fisted "mechanic".  The broken spring is so very obvious... seems they obtained the manuals only to make a good impression. ::)

piet
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The fact that it started happening suddenly suggests that it broke after they last worked on it, as it was fine heading out on Saturday morning.  I emailed them the manual today ;)  I'd rather take joy out of the fact that we got to the bottom of it over the last 24hrs than stress about finding a new mechanic. Now they have the manual I hope it will make things smoother, but the learning for me is that I should take an interest in these things and teach myself some of the basics.


 
If the spring broke after you got the bike back then the end piece is floating around in your crankcase if it isn't visible under that cover. Hopefully you have a magnet on your oil drain plug and it is stuck to that.
 
Davo said:
If the spring broke after you got the bike back then the end piece is floating around in your crankcase if it isn't visible under that cover. Hopefully you have a magnet on your oil drain plug and it is stuck to that.
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:o :o :o :o
 
I've a tough time staying away from this dragging clutch thread not that Members haven't great solutions but: If anyone has introduced MMS Snake Oil to a Wet clutch or just plain dirty the clutch will slip, rattle and not engage into 1st from neutral or back into neutral - Best to dissemble the clutch pack and burn the disc's with a propane torch to rid the crap, clean with lacquer thinner buff the disc's with sand paper, reassemble and refill the crank case with straight DINO HDEO Oil.

Old School.
 
I will eventually learn how to take it all apart. If the inside of the gear selector case is anything to go by the rest of the inards need a good clean ;)

In the meantime I changed the spring and the gear selector works again as expected.  Noe need to work out how to find neutral.
 
cbertozz said:
I will eventually learn how to take it all apart. If the inside of the gear selector case is anything to go by the rest of the inards need a good clean ;)

In the meantime I changed the spring and the gear selector works again as expected.  Noe need to work out how to find neutral.
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Excellent. Neutral can be tricky and may involve adjustment of the eccentric bolt which I am shit at.  :-[
 
No need to find neutral. It'll be in the same place it's always been.

I find that shifting into neutral on both of my Laverda triples is a pain in the arse when the bike is stopped with the engine running, such as at traffic lights. Presumably because of a bit of clutch drag. Best to hook it into neutral before you come to a stop.
 
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