Clutch Slip - Chance to debunk a lubrication myth....

Haggis

Haggis

Hero member
Location
UK
Hello young spunkers.

In the near future my SF clutch plates will be replaced (Clem - ta buddy).

At the moment, I know exactly how the clutch slips, when and where.

Before the overhaul, I thought it would be interesting to throw something at it - in the engine oil department, to test out myths that oils/additives cause clutch slip.

Naturally I don't want to use anything that might damage the rest of the motor (causing bearing skipping or whatever).

Anybody got something they want testing in that regard? A certain oil? A certain additive?

Currently used oils are typical dino-juice 20/50, mid price range - nothing fancy has been in there.

It's just for fun guys - please hold back the lectures on snake oil :-)

Thoughts?

Cheers, Paul.
 
the first thing that I want to add is that I have found the sporings weaken and very often this is all that is needed to restore a clutcj to non slipping, maybe three sets of springs to one set of plates
CLEM
ps you are very welcome Hag, one of the few (that dont waste my time.)
 
Funnily enough , my GT slips first thing , cold engine, if I go up the hill in 3rd instead of hanging it out in second, then is fine once hot. Perhaps use a car specific 20W/50 as opposed to its more expensive motorcycle version - personally I think it will make no difference, same oil Different label. Where I used to work we used solely Amsoil synthetic and only once did I have a problem with a Fireblade starter clutch , changed the oil for mineral and it worked again.
I think the problem of clutch slip after an oil change is due to the extra viscosity of the new oil ( existing oil has thinned out with use) and a marginal clutch, so your test may not be 100% Conclusive.
I think any of the snake oil additives will see off a marginal clutch.
Have also run a seized C90 on a whole bottle of slick 50, it ran and the clutch a gearbox worked- what this tells us I don’t know!
 
Exmoor beast said:
Funnily enough , my GT slips first thing , cold engine, if I go up the hill in 3rd instead of hanging it out in second, then is fine once hot. Perhaps use a car specific 20W/50 as opposed to its more expensive motorcycle version - personally I think it will make no difference, same oil Different label. Where I used to work we used solely Amsoil synthetic and only once did I have a problem with a Fireblade starter clutch , changed the oil for mineral and it worked again.
I think the problem of clutch slip after an oil change is due to the extra viscosity of the new oil ( existing oil has thinned out with use) and a marginal clutch, so your test may not be 100% Conclusive.
I think any of the snake oil additives will see off a marginal clutch.
Have also run a seized C90 on a whole bottle of slick 50, it ran and the clutch a gearbox worked- what this tells us I don’t know!
Click to expand...
When mine do that, it's because there's wear in the bronze bush. Slip disappears when hot.

Paul
 
The first time my bike was on a dino the bloke was talking about something he had seen on a few bikes but not mine. He called it clutch flutter, where any pressure variation in the clutch would cause a sudden small slip at high revs. Even pressure from the springs is important.
 
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