Coil resistance?

GTCarlos said:
Well, the plot thickens...
Last night I made my way to the garage just to check on the TEAG, which, if I understand correctly, is the combined gap between the 2 pick-up "contacts" and the rotor magnet.

It seems the outer pick-up is actually HITTING the rotor, on all 3 sensors. The inner "contact" seems to have clearance but I couldn't measure it with the tools I had at hand. What's more, the wire insulation on at least two of the pick-ups is crumbling exposing (not yet corroded) bare wire. Since those affect both when and if the plugs fire, it's amazing it is running at all!

Question 1:
Am I right in thinking that the COMBINED gap of the two sensors should be ≥ 0.25mm? If so, does it matter how that's split front to back?

Question 2:
How the %^& do you adjust the gap? It *seems* that the head of the allen bolts that secure the sensors butt up against the plastic part of them so that they CAN'T be pushed back to provide clearance for the outer "contact". Short of some convoluted shimming that I doubt would hold even if I did get it to work, I can't see any way to adjust the gaps.

IS this a fixable issue or should I just scrap the whole system and replace it? I wrote Wolfgang Haerter last night about a new ignition system but haven't heard back yet.

TIA for your thoughts.

-Danny
Click to expand...
q1 oft the case the pole face pull out at different lengths, making the actual ideal combined gaps at 0,25m/m hit and miss, ie front gap might be larger than the rear pole face, Really if you want to retain VR pups, then TEC single pole VR's from crashed ZZR GPX Kwaka learner bikes are far superior and work with the BTZ module, ( i will ) post a pic if able...

q2. There is enough free play in the setting fasteners to adjust the gap. Though as the engine warms the pole faces pull in towards the impulse cam, all a waste of time really, fix one problem get another.... stump up for a proper ignition and all you need do is work on the carbies, if or as required. BTW all these issues your seeing for the first time are very old news to the many here.... cold comfort as that may be... a smile here.
HTH j.
 
Paul Marx said:
Both pickups should be a tad over 0.2mm from the rotor. You have to fiddle.
More gap means advance kicks in later.
Paul
Click to expand...
Best i could do in the early days, 0,125m/m on each pole face of a pup pole face pair... very difficult to ensure, especially as the pole faces go walkies over time.

One of the great pleasures in a day of Laverda ownership is the flinging of the Bosch ignition and alternator parts, bit of a sad moment of course, keeping the original parts would be ideal, yet it has to be done, if nothing more than safety, having an ignition issue half way round a fast sweeper is great fun if you like being scared....j.

p.s. BTW the Laverda twin's bosch generator is a serviceable device, very hands on and tactile in making them work, relay can for the nostalgia and old fashioned electrical skills.
 
If the insulation is crumbling you really are at the point where further work is pointless... or sparkless!
Some have replaced the trigger wiring with new but I'm sceptical about how reliable the connection can be at the encapsulated triggers.
Ignition system replacement is the sensible option.
 
but still fit the 300 float valves and seats but with pink tipped valves, they are ethanol proof the black ones are not and will eventually give you trouble, flooding carbs, or none getting through, both is possible, more likely flooding which can cause hyrauliching and bent con rods at worse or at best petrol diluting the crankcase oil to piss thin and full up status.

looks like (for you) the ignition war is over, get a new kit, Redax in Australia would be my choice.
CLEM
 
Can't go wrong with the ignitech ignitions and upgraded 250 watt charging systems that are part of the kit. Excellent value and much kinder to the engine.
Agree with Clem only use the red tip float needles with modern fuels.
 
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