Collapsed center stand?

rbpjenkins

Junior member
Location
Oxfordshire
My center stand seems to have collapsed forwards i.e the bike rotates further back than it should and the stand looks like it's pointing forwards more than it should. Net result is the bike is unstable and bloody hard to push forward, off the stand: the feet are off the ground with the tang touching down.

I need to get a paddock stand to hold the bike before I get the fairing off and get under to see what's going on but wondered if anyone had seem similar?

It's a Jota 120 Cropredy Liberator so I assume it's a standard Jota 120 center stand?

thanks
Rob
 

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That looks like a poorly engineered stop system - the open end of the half-tube seems to have deformed where it contacts the frame lug and allowed the stand to rotate forward further than it should. I'd reckon a repair and reinforcing with some sort of plate steel as a cap would be an easy fix. But I'm not familiar with triple centrestands, so I'm probably talking shite.
 
Can't see from there but probably missing the two m10 adjustable stop bolts and nuts. Works perfectly when assembled correctly. Earlier bikes just had a welded tab, still works mostly fine.
PB2 is one cylinder short of a BBQ and talking shite! 😆
 
Either that or some DPO's fitted a Ceriani stand on a Marzocchi bike.
Can you get a photograph of the front top of the stand, Rob. Better still, roll the front wheel on to a bit of 4" x 2", lift the stand and take a shot of the top end of the stand.
 
On my 3c the centre stand was also knackered. Piet recommended to weld a modified stop to the stand, this is described
HERE

This is AFAIK the best fix if it is not planned to have the engine out. Of course you should also check the bolt and the bush around which the stand swivels - and grease those.

No issues whatsoever since ...
(y)
 
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That looks like a poorly engineered stop system - the open end of the half-tube seems to have deformed where it contacts the frame lug and allowed the stand to rotate forward further than it should. I'd reckon a repair and reinforcing with some sort of plate steel as a cap would be an easy fix. But I'm not familiar with triple centrestands, so I'm probably talking shite.
I thought the top of the tubes looked deformed too when I looked at the pics. I'll figure out a way to support the bike and get the stand off, should be easy to see then
 
The pivot holes in the stand wear and become oval, causing the stand to over extend and to wobble. Happened to mine and cured by reaming the holes out and fitting interference fit hardened steel bushes and new bolts.
 
Can't see from there but probably missing the two m10 adjustable stop bolts and nuts. Works perfectly when assembled correctly. Earlier bikes just had a welded tab, still works mostly fine.
PB2 is one cylinder short of a BBQ and talking shite! 😆
Oi! That's a bit harsh Steve! o_O:ROFLMAO: I reckon I wasn't completely on another planet, according Piet's post in 2019 "Weld an additional stop on the stand legs. " Speshly if it has no stop bolts.
 
PB- Harsh but fair, you were talking shite. 😆 (Note to the original poster, PB and I are well acquainted and this is just some light hearted shit-hanging between friends).
But yeah, nah, you were talking about the stop being somehow poorly designed because the end of the tube had deformed. When assembled correctly and in good order, the end of the tube should not contact anything and is not part of the stop system. The new owner does not need to go down a rabbit hole of modification of the end of the tube, he just has to work out firstly whether he has the correct stand for the model, and if so what has been put together wrong.
The triple centre stand in good order is bloody great, especially the later ones as should be on a 120jota.

RPBJ - did you find a padlock stand yet? If it's just the stop bolts you don't even really need one. Do the old lean the bike against a wall on the end of the handlebar trick and that will give you good access to inspect the stops at least. Post another pic with the stand up. If the correct stand then it's most likely just missing the stop bolts or perhaps the bushes in the pivot. The first is super easy to fix without any disassembly, the latter involves removing the pivot bolts but not necessarily the springs etc. You have a lathe so just turn up some new bushes if those are missing. The pivot bolt should tighten the bush hard onto the frame lug and the stand rotates around the bush. Adjust the stop bolts untill it has a nice amount of 'over centre' and contacts the stops evenly both sides. Loctite the bejesus out of everything! 👍😁
 
My early 3C has a center stand with only one spring and without the adjustable stop bolts and one side is bent or sagging so bike leans left when on the stand - still to pull it off and look at the bushes. Was there any change to the pivot or stops on the frame with the later adjustable stop stand - can the later stand be used on early frame or should early stand just get threaded bosses welded on to work with the original frame?
 
The later (Marzocchi) suspended bikes were taller and, consequently, the stands are not interchangeable without considerable modification.
IMO the centre-stand on the Ceriani equipped bikes is near-as-damn-it perfect. I put in on the centre-stand while sitting on the bike and have done for forty-five years.
Apply heat to straighten the stand and quench afterwards. The ovality can be repared by welding and re-drilling, some enlarge the hole (be very careful to keep the hole centres exactly as they were, and inline) and fit oversize bushes.
While you're doing the re-fettle, check the feet for abrasion wear, and consider applying some hardfacing to protect against future wear.
 
The later (Marzocchi) suspended bikes were taller and, consequently, the stands are not interchangeable without considerable modification.
IMO the centre-stand on the Ceriani equipped bikes is near-as-damn-it perfect. I put in on the centre-stand while sitting on the bike and have done for forty-five years.
Apply heat to straighten the stand and quench afterwards. The ovality can be repared by welding and re-drilling, some enlarge the hole (be very careful to keep the hole centres exactly as they were, and inline) and fit oversize bushes.
While you're doing the re-fettle, check the feet for abrasion wear, and consider applying some hardfacing to protect against future wear.
Same with mine - also the way of using it - worked already on my SF1 (not for 45years though) ...
:cool:
 
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These are the adjustable stops on the Jota 120 centre stand.View attachment 57358
This was exactly the issue: I've got the threaded lugs welded to the stand but no bolts. Can only assume they were put in during restoration but not loctited and vibrated out once I rode a few miles. Mine don;t have the nut welded to the top, the whole lug is threaded. I've put M10 bolts in with a load of Loctite. Stand works perfectly now, if they come out again I'll try longer bolts with locking nuts or something. Thanks for all the suggestions
 
"Apply heat to straighten the stand and quench afterwards. The ovality can be repared by welding and re-drilling, some enlarge the hole (be very careful to keep the hole centres exactly as they were, and inline) and fit oversize bushes.
While you're doing the re-fettle, check the feet for abrasion wear, and consider applying some hardfacing to protect against future wear."

not very good information Jock
heat up with oxy/acet and straighten by all means, fill the worn part of the holes with rutile electrodes or MIG and retain the half circle of the unworn hole, carry out any other weld repairs, eg "unpeel" the feet and replace, repair cracks, oval or broken spring holes, foot tang to suit Jota Joe sidestand? extra mini gussets etc, polish off the excess on the surface of the two flanges, at the pivots, and then (using a mill) centre an 18mm cutter onto the circle of the unworn part of the hole and mill away, then deburr, if you can be bothered (not realy required, and I didn't on the half dozen I have reclaimed) heat the whole unit up in an oven and then cool it, by slowly dropping the temperature over several hours, but dont quench the hot metal. Hard facing on the feet is not a good plan at all, totally unnecessary and may cause more harm than the wear it will prevent, eg crystalisation, distortion, stopping the "roll/slide" on tarmac, the stock stand will last 150,000 miles and 40+ years without hard facing, a brush of grease on the pivots and spring ends, is a good thing at service time, but most dont do that.

I have done about six in recent years and they are all giving great service, the one on TOG was given to me by Coxy, yes I said given! that must surely tell you all how bad it was, and its now great, even powder coated, I don't have a stand tang at all, and that is not the best way to go, the next one I do for myself or even the one that's on the bike will get a very short straight tang ending in a ball., you only need about 50mm to make all the difference.
 
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