compression ring same as 2nd?

michipons

michipons

Hero member
Location
Palma de Mallorca
Hi all!

I bought those pistons to Wolfang, and came with this two ring bags, when I saw it, my guess was to use the second stage ring also for the top ring. Today the turner (?) who drills the cylinders told me that those rings are not to be used as compression rings, but he also said he was not familiar neither with the engine nor with those pistons...

So the question is, should I put those rings in the first and second slot, or should I somehow find the appropriate compression rings for the first slot?

Thanks to all for your support,
Miguel.

(I am not sure if I uploaded the photos properly... will see)

IMG_5122.JPG

IMG_5123.JPG

IMG_5121.JPG
 
Hi Maurice,

Thanks for your help. In this bag "second groove" I got 4 rings, all of them identical. The recess if you look the photo carefully is in the inner side. The turner told me that the compression and the 2nd look the same, or can be with the same shape, but usually different material, more shiny appearance. Wolfang either forgott to send me a third bag or I should use 2nd groove rings for compression also. I wrote him already but usually it takes a few days weeks until he can answer me ::)

Regardsm
Miguel
 
Compression (top) ring almost invariably has as you say a bright chrome appearance. I wouldn't use those as top rings unless it was confirmed that they are suitable.
 
If you contact ROSS PISTONS and give them the numbers off the bottom of the pistons, they will look it up in the sales records and send you the correct ring sets. Just tell them how many you want. Used to cost about $25 USD per piston/cylinder.

sales@rosspistons.com
625 S. Douglas St.
El Segundo, CA 90245
P: (310) 536-0100
F: (310) 536-0333
  http://www.rosspistons.com/

The ring end gaps are set in an odd way with the ROSS pistons/ring sets, AIRC.
f7rLxjL9jVSow9_xglYyfuv3RwYsqzwm4TRfw-tGbRORvl3woDLgL3zw5FSjedBLdGW6njJ-f7qksly6BhjHuZDrdYfzIJ9tObE_Q0GYeZRBExIvO89vvGq0-2NntYBmAuqOVvfRTw

 
Finally I received the rings,

I would like to post this for future beginners like me having the same problem I had.

I wrote to Ross sales, it took a bit long as every answer took 3 days, but eventually they sent a ring set from California all the way to Spain, obviously shipping costs were higher than the rings... Next time I will try to buy pistons with spares in Europe.

Anyway, as expected, the top ring was missing, and those pistons are using total seal rings, not the ross rings. In the photo I show the ring set that should be used with those pistons, and also how the top ring looks.

Regards,
Miguel.

IMG_5308.jpg

IMG_5311.jpg
 
Hello again!

I was doing some tests before final assembling of the rings and pistons, and I saw that the ring set I got from Ross Pistons sales department, are a bit different from the one that Wolfang sent me. Even when boths are from Total Seal.

The ones from Wolfang just fit fine, the ones from Ross have no ring gap or even overlaps, so if I am finally using this last ones, I will have to file fit the gap. I never did that before but doesn?t seem too complicated after having read different topics here and articles on the web.

It is really necessary to use a ring gap filler tool? Or can it be done with a hand file?

In the first case... any idea where to find an easy one in Europe (not exoensive electric ones)? I just found some from summitracing, overseas! :( I am tyred of paying more customs and shipping than the thing itself...

Thank for the help as always,
Miguel
 
The ring sets from Ross do indeed need to be gaped. There are some specific instructions concerning the first and second ring end gap and those recommendations should be followed. AIRC the top rings are moly, so a ring gap cutter tool is handy for a smooth finish without any chunks of moly removed from the ring ends. The old file clamped in the bench vise tool can work..but a specialized tool is better.

If there is a hot-rod engine shop in your town..they may help you.

You might ask Wolfgang if he filed/gaped the rings to get the correct gap close enough and if they are the type with a moly top ring?

I can scan the Ross ring installation instructions and post them if you need them.
 
Rusty Spokes said:
The ring sets from Ross do indeed need to be gaped. There are some specific instructions concerning the first and second ring end gap and those recommendations should be followed. AIRC the top rings are moly, so a ring gap cutter tool is handy for a smooth finish without any chunks of moly removed from the ring ends. The old file clamped in the bench vise tool can work..but a specialized tool is better.

If there is a hot-rod engine shop in your town..they may help you.

You might ask Wolfgang if he filed/gaped the rings to get the correct gap close enough and if they are the type with a moly top ring?

I can scan the Ross ring installation instructions and post them if you need them.
Click to expand...

Would be great to have those instructions! The more I have the better!
 
Always gap your rings for a prepared cylinder bore. Ring Gap is more critical then say a .005" to a .010" difference between a piston to bore clearance.

Do you know how to gap rings for a particular bore  - Even it means you buy over size rings to set the proper gap for a bore.

Just assuming you have a true "I I" aligned bore and not like this ") (".

As long as the ring gaps are to spec, it over rides the piston to bore gap with in reason and the cylinder walls have to be true parallel.

Spec'd ring gap with true parallel bores get you the most power and longevity over piston to cylinder wall clearances.

Free air motorcycle pistons do have a tendency to naturally assume the dimensions of the bore where as rings do not.
 
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