definately agree with Paul, you are risking a bent con rod, and a bent con rod trophy!, without (much) doubt, the float valves and seats will need replacing, the old type (tiny black tip) does not tolerate ethanol fuel at all well, the later type (tiny red tip) is what you need. Fuel in the oil being the tell tale,I also agree with Rob all floats should be the same colour, the later ones are white and have a tendancy for the pivot pin housing to be too long, causing binding,very easy to rectify, but MUST be done, for unhindered swinging of the float, the heights of which is 18,5mm + or- .5mm, it also important to have the carb corectly positioned so that the spring in the valve tip is not compressed, but is resting on the seat, easy to make a tool and you then have it for life, LASTLY, I do go on dont I? the carbs must be balanced using apropriate instrument. You dont say which bike you have twin or triple, or something else, or did I miss it (likely) but the parameters still apply, once done your bike should start easily on choke when cold, and without any choke when hot (plenty on here and even some dealers will tell you that half choke is needed to start a hot engine, that is bullshit and usually points to the carbs not being accuartely jetted or set for modern fuel) the bike should also tick over for a fornight if untouched, not a good thing on twins because of marginal oil circulation when on tickover (I ruined a camshaft on a 30,000 mile owned from new twin in the 70's due to a sixteen mile London commute), the same applies to triples, but to a much lesser affect, as in virtually ignore it. If a twin ticks over for a few minutes 2 or 3, then dies, it usually means the carbs are unbalanced, especially if it spits and dies when you open the throttle to get away, again, the same applies to triples but to a much lesser affect, any twin or triple when hot, should be able to start by pressing the button using a long broomstick, catch and tickover forever.
CLEM
