You'll only achieve a lighter pull with a cable if you cut the sprocket cover for a lengthened actuating lever or fit one of those ghastly cranked levers. These both have drawbacks, the actual throwout lift at the clutch is seriosly compromised causing drag and the shift at standstill can turn to a pita, ie, when searching for neutral at traffic lights. Cable adjustment often flies out the window with high engine temps. Finding good quality cables has also become a challenge, maybe learn to make your own?
Hydraulics at least offer a constant, albeit firm movement in stock form, keeping them in top nick can have you chasing your tail for a while... both the M/C and the slave require regular maintenance/replacement of the rubbery bits.
Personally, I prefer the hydraulics, even to the point of converting my 3C to hydraulic with the use of a Magura Hymec clone slave coupled to a generic 14mm M/C. The RGS requires a new slave o-ring after every second season, I just replaced the M/C seals last week, these were about 15 years old... Wifeys' OR600 has just recieved a haydraulic conversion using bits and bobs from the Zane models, only for her to complain lever action is heavier than before. Engaging 1st gear is now but a click instead of the usual clunk. And it now allows neutral to be found again at a standstill, cable adjustment simply didn't allow it over differing engine temps. Guess I'll need to fit a new-fangled radial M/C instead of the classic PS13.
Only mechanical issue I experienced on my 8000km trip last summer to the North Cape on the GTL was a snapped clutch cable. To be fair, it was my own production and I hadn't put enough attention in the nipple movement in the handlebar lever. Only breakdown on wifeys' 500 in almost 40 years ownership was a snapped clutch cable. Nope, don't particularly like cables.
piet
many thanks 
I'll reply on Messenger
or an unplanned extended roadside stop being eaten alive by the midges 
