Crankcase repair...

Rob said:
I did wonder if that was the chain used. Bought one (M106SL) from Andy the chainman many years ago after he extolled its virtues. Decided against using it due to its very lightweight construction. Personal choice... o ring chains better suited to my riding.
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I've had good experiences - I was warned that it would stretch quickly but despite two up touring the chain is stable, performs well and makes for a nice light gear-change. The chain has to be boiled in one of those oil tins every so often to get grease back in the links but if you do this then I found it okay.
The chain hasn't broken, it is the spring link that's failed. As it's the spring link it's going to be down to me. I'm a little ashamed that I messed up and had to get help via the open WWW (for which I'm very grateful) but I've got broad shoulders - fortunately I'm not in ILOC so can't be nominated for the 'Bent Con rod Award'!
Nick :-)
 
Ive posted up a comparison of the EKchain i use for racing purposes and road use against the perceived IWIS chain you might be using.

Its its been on the bike since i converted from 530 to 520 in 2011 ish. Albeit dormant for much of that time. A whole seasons racing ++

The eye watering spec makes it worth reconsidering your loyalty to that particular chain, maybe the splitlink failed because it couldnt cope with the tensile strength alone or combined with the adjacent plates/ holes.

I wish you well with the repair.

I also use IWIS cam and primary.
Rob
 

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Nick said:
I've had good experiences - I was warned that it would stretch quickly but despite two up touring the chain is stable, performs well and makes for a nice light gear-change. The chain has to be boiled in one of those oil tins every so often to get grease back in the links but if you do this then I found it okay.
The chain hasn't broken, it is the spring link that's failed. As it's the spring link it's going to be down to me. I'm a little ashamed that I messed up and had to get help via the open WWW (for which I'm very grateful) but I've got broad shoulders - fortunately I'm not in ILOC so can't be nominated for the 'Bent Con rod Award'!
Nick :-)
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Even though I still use them from time to time, spring links aren't recommended on larger, heavier bikes.
Paul
 
Paul Marx said:
Even though I still use them from time to time, spring links aren't recommended on larger, heavier bikes.
Paul
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There's a reason why DID no longer supplies spring links for #530 and larger chains...

We once lost a spring clip at Hockenheim on one of the racing Sportsters but made it across the finishing line (in 1st place!) nonetheless. Chain unravelled itself on the Monday morning after unpacking the van and attempting to ride into the workshop! Went to rivet links from then on.

Even using new clips when changing the chain/gearing won't guarantee sucess.

piet
 
I can see the point of using a non-O-ring chain if you're racing an extremely competitive class for limited laps, if you're chasing every ounce of power, but if you're road riding for any distance, why you would not use the best possible O-ring chain is a step too far for me. Typical O-ring, fit and maybe lube every blue moon and forget. Maube 20,000ks later you might need a couple of adjustments as the chain and sprockets die. So much better than 40 years ago with nucking about constantly adjusting chains.
 
Totally agree, Vince. SO many km on 70s pre-o'ring chains. Re spring clips, my DID 520 VX chains (have fitted three) all came with spring clips, but the side plate is a press fit. I outlaid the dough for the DID chain tool and it requires considerable force to fit the side plate. I could easily fit the rivetted link, but reckon it's safe and I like the removability of the split link. Done 14,000km and quite a few of them at high sped. No sign of failure.
 
My first Laverda was a 1200 from a deceased estate. I bought it from the late owner's widow. I'd known the bloke from club rides for a few years before he passed but I wasn't sure about his mechanical ability. I'd been told that he bought the bike as a basket case and put it together himself so I figured he must have a few clues. But as I got to know the bike I discovered a few mechanical bodges. Mostly small things like bolts not tightened sufficiently, a non-metric nut on a M7 exhaust stud, wiring joints that were just twisted together and taped, sloppy gear and brake linkages, a front tyre fitted backwards.

But the worst bodge was discovered after I'd been riding the bike for a couple of weeks. I was cleaning the chain when I discovered to my horror that the spring clip was missing from the chain connecting link. The side plate was still in place so I thought the clip must have just come off. But I later found it in a box of parts that came with the bike. Still in the little plastic bag that the connecting link came in, it had apparently never been fitted. The side plate was the press-on type but I guess he didn't have appropriate tools to press it home far enough to get the spring clip on. I can only conclude that because it was so hard to press into place that he figured it was tight enough to stay put by itself and the spring clip was just a belt and braces type of overkill. I dunno how many km the bike had travelled in that condition, but it certainly didn't turn a wheel again until I'd replaced the chain with an o-ring rivetted link type.
 
No pic but there is nothing to it. Standard thin tie wire around the outer plate and clip, twisted tight with the tool, then the tail bent down tight outside it and a dab of silicone or similar. Lots of classic racers here used the method.
 
Tippie said:
No pic but there is nothing to it. Standard thin tie wire around the outer plate and clip, twisted tight with the tool, then the tail bent down tight outside it and a dab of silicone or similar. Lots of classic racers here used the method.
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Something like this, need to get it as tight as possible, I have not tucked the ends in,
 

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My wire is much thinner, sold at bike shop with the tool, and I did only one wrap, it could be pushed really tight in with the tail between the tangs of the clip.
 
I like that greyed out 'secret' word!! I was thinking either the photo is reversed, or it does indeed look suspiciously like the open end of the clip is pointing the (greyed out word) INCORRECT way ... but my guess is it's not a Laverda, it's a left hand chain setup.
 
So many YouTube videos are reversed, took a while to realise why there were so many right-hand-drive cars in the USA, hard to read signs in the background as well. And left handed Cops pulling up right handed Cars kind of tips it up as well. I wonder if it's a Camera or editing issue. A lot of this footage must be used in court, so its preety dumb.
 
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