Crankshaft lock tool

Should work a treat, made one myself out of some old pipe I had lying around, the arm is long enough to reach the footpeg which stops it rotating whilst I swing off the Jesus nut with a long extension.
 
The ILOC's new crankshaft holding tool was tested here on a dismantled engine that was on my workbench at the time, the bottom end was built so we tried the fit and look of the tool (Keith P and I) it looks well made and fits well, annoyingly there is no hole in the handle for hanging it on a wall, and we tried several sockets to fit the circular boss with out success, then I came across a six pointer (which is better than any 12 pointer anyway) that I had bought loose of any socket set for a special purpose and it slotted in very nicely. I would say the reliability is all dependant on the strength of the two locking pins, my own home made tool has two welded in socket cap bolts and has worked very well for more than 30 years, (although I have managed to crack one of the bronze welds, it still operates and can be repaired) The issues I have mentioned have been transmitted to the maker/seller in Ireland and seem to have been taken on board in his wording.

I was impressed so I bought my own! I have no intention of competing with ILOC's tool loan scheme but if locals want to bring an engine (or bike) here and lock or unlock the Jesus nut then feel free to contact.

It should be noted here (aimed at Clay) that it will not be suitable for the 750 as they don't have holes in the crankshaft sprocket for the tool.

CLEM
 
Cosi said:
buy a rattle gun you turkeys....
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But that noisey thingy will sling gooey stuff all over my polyester double knit bell bottom coveralls  :P :P :P 

Was only thinking about this since my rattler doesn't have a way to set the torque to spec, and the last thing I need is to stretch those threads  :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

Clay
 
'71 SF said:
But that noisey thingy will sling gooey stuff all over my polyester double knit bell bottom coveralls  :P :P :P 

Was only thinking about this since my rattler doesn't have a way to set the torque to spec, and the last thing I need is to stretch those threads  :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

Clay
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You won't, the nut will go first.  But you'll develop a feel for it before long.  There is quite a large scope for the possible torque, from what is required to keep the bits in place, to what the thread can take.  I no longer bother with specified torques for the crank nuts and haven't had one go loose for decades, nor have I ever damaged a thread.

You can do a bit of training first, tighten some big bolts and nuts mounted in a vise with the rattle gun and undo them with a LH torque wrench.  You'll soon find a setting on the gun to suit your requirements.

piet
 
my new air impact gun is good to 1,200 pound/feet of torque, don't need no sissy gear holding tool.......  ;)

very quiet as well      http://aircat.com/products/top-sellers/1-2-kevlar-tm-composite-impact-wrench57/

highly recommended!!

Paul LeClair
 
Not everyone wants or can afford to have all the toys Paul; some of us improvise, overcome and adapt. ;)
 
I cobbled together the genuine replica of the factory tool in the photo below. I only used it for one job and it worked OK.

However, I was worried about the load it puts on the clutch shaft so I bought a cheapo rattle gun from Supercheap Auto. Was only about $80 IIRC and I've used it heaps of times for various things. Some jobs I couldn't have done without it, like undoing the big old rusty nuts on my trailer suspension when it needed refurbishing. Bloody useful thing and well worth the investment.
 

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Paul LeClair said:
my new air impact gun is good to 1,200 pound/feet of torque, don't need no sissy gear holding tool.......  ;)

very quiet as well      http://aircat.com/products/top-sellers/1-2-kevlar-tm-composite-impact-wrench57/

highly recommended!!

Paul LeClair
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Dang Paul, that thing is a beast. Mine puts out a piddly 350 ft/lbs compared to your monster 900 ft/lbs (if I read it correct yours is adjustable). Looks like I need to sell one of the rides and get the AIRCAT  :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
 
Paul LeClair said:
my new air impact gun is good to 1,200 pound/feet of torque, don't need no sissy gear holding tool.......  ;)

very quiet as well      http://aircat.com/products/top-sellers/1-2-kevlar-tm-composite-impact-wrench57/

highly recommended!!

Paul LeClair
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Just a word of caution for the non experienced who start to tackle jobs with a rattle gun. Be careful as is so easy to do damage to threads and the heads of the bolts or nuts... and please remember when refitting, to start and wind on by hand before using the gun and be careful that it is not set on the highest torque setting esp if you havent got the feel for it. ( as Piet said do some practice with it before tackling the bike... like the wifes lug nuts etc.. )

I myself prefer to nip up with a gun but make the final tighten by hand with a torque wrench but that is the way I was trained when building the ARC.

Being in the trade have seen all sorts of damage caused by even so called mechanic's let alone novices... have even watched so called "mechanics" putting in spark plugs with the damn things !!!!

Great idea's and time saves but be careful as it is all to easy to cause damage.
 
Brett said:
Just a word of caution for the non experienced who start to tackle jobs with a rattle gun. Be careful as is so easy to do damage to threads and the heads of the bolts or nuts... and please remember when refitting, to start and wind on by hand before using the gun and be careful that it is not set on the highest torque setting esp if you havent got the feel for it. ( as Piet said do some practice with it before tackling the bike... like the wifes lug nuts etc.. )

I myself prefer to nip up with a gun but make the final tighten by hand with a torque wrench but that is the way I was trained when building the ARC.

Being in the trade have seen all sorts of damage caused by even so called mechanic's let alone novices... have even watched so called "mechanics" putting in spark plugs with the damn things !!!!

Great idea's and time saves but be careful as it is all to easy to cause damage.
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The best example of abuse with an impact is at the tire store, after the first time of needing two of us to stand on the lug nit wrench to get it to break loose I now make them loosen them by hand, and then tighten by hand.

In the trade we use torque wrenches, the manufactures along with the FAA mandate their use, calibrated and all. Taking the nuts off I have no issue using a rattler, putting them on Brett is by hand and then torquing them. I cannot believe that anyone would use an impact wrench on a spark plug, HOLY COW!

Clay
 
After a series of disasters and legal actions pretty much all Tyre shops use torque wrenchs to do up car wheel nuts in the UK now.

If you have a bit of dosh and don't have an air compressor then the Bosch Electric rattle gun is for you.
They spin up a lot slower than the 'speed of light' air guns - much, much more controllable, but very powerful:

https://www.bosch-professional.com/gb/en/impact-wrenches-101290-ocs-c/

gds-18-e-27481.jpg
 
Before I started to dissasemble the engine, I bought a cheap chinese copy of that fancy electrical Bosch thingy off fleabay.

Showed up to be a rather solid and powerful tool, having just the right torque range for primary sprocket and flywheel nut. Has just an on/off switch, so the handling is less immediate, but still close to an air gun. Used it on the flywheel puller as well, worked a treat. Same for assembly. No fancy tools or bodges required for locking the crank. Just whacked the sprocket nut up, until it stopped moving any further.
Flywheel looks a bit more tricky, as there seems some risk to crack the hub by pulling it to far on the cone.
Nicely enough, the clever Breganze folks added a figure to the 3C manual, showing the required distance between flywheel face and seal face cover, 36,5mm +/-0,15mm. That way it took 2 or 3  sequences of rattle and measure, job done after 30 seconds.

In the meantime, this cheapo electrical rattle gun made work so much easier on many more occasions, it has become definitely my personal best 44 euros ever spent on a tool.







 
Gravelroad said:
Before I started to dissasemble the engine, I bought a cheap chinese copy of that fancy electrical Bosch thingy off fleabay.
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Probably made in the same plant just switched out the Bosch casing...  :o amazing how much of the "brand" stuff is actually made in ching chong land these days.....

Milwaukee are not too bad not a pricey as some of the top end jobs but seem to do the job OK.
 
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