cylinder head removal

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lemonjelly

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Hi

I m in the process of changing the cylinder head,I ve followed the green book to the hilt and just can t lift it off,tapped block with a hide hammer as per green book, but it just lifts up about a cm and won t budge anymore,and ideas please.All nuts and cam chain tensioner are off.

Thanks Shaun
 
all the studs seem to move down as I lift it and don t seem to be catching.
 
ok had a call, head over tightened causing centre studs to catch on the aluminium,WD40 and patience here.So yes Grant. ta
 
WD40 and patience is preferable to brute force and ignorance, although a little 'persuasion' does help sometimes.

First time I took a triple engine out the frame I was convinced the bastards had welded the frame around the engine. Now it's a 2 minute job.
 
have you got the motor out of the chassis and if not why not?

If you are going to strip the bottom end, then I would suggest removing as many of the studs as you can, by the double nut method, you can then Timecert them before refitting if deemed neccessarry, the alternative is some gentle heat from a hot air gun or even a hair dryer, if the stud holes have collapsed around the bolt holes then you have to suspect that the head has been previously "repaired" and caused the alloy to soften, either through heating to install guides or valve seats or maybe even welding, the 9mm studs are fragile, and the only thing that fails if you over tighten them is the female thread in the crankcase, which will let go at anything from 30 ft/lbs up wards, undoing the bolts and studs on the head in the correect order is just as important as tightening them up in the corect order to prevent a warp.and when you do come to tighten the thing back down make sure you have a good a proper torque wrench of a very well known make, with the range you are useing somewhere in the middle of the scale, a 20 to 200 ft/lb wrench might work, but then again might not.
CLEM

CLEM
 
Thanks Clem

Double nut lock method got them out,studs fine,superior RGS head going on,very glad to see factory standard flat tops pistons and linings perfect,this 1200 was in the batch of numbers listed in the Green Book as having the shorter valve springs,reckon it dropped a exhaust valve in the past,and was repaired in a Latino manner shall we say.

Cheers Shaun
 
Just pulling my 1200 apart too as it goes what year is yours and what was the valve spring length as I dont have a green book thanks??? mine is 180*
 
1980  engine numbers 2602-3256 springs should be replaced with standard 43mm and deeper collets ,rather than flatter top collet retainers and shorter springs (quoting from the green book here.)

LJ
 
mauricejota7604 said:
Hi Shaun I assume you have removed the rear cam chain tesioner blade and are the cams out allowing the cam chain to slide past freely?
M.
Click to expand...

would you believe the shoelace broke  :o :o :o
 
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