Daft handlebar question

cwis

Full member
Hi all,

is there any reason why I can't remove the elbow section from my handlebars, and bolt the hand bits (I am sure there is a technical term!) directly to the bar bit that goes through the clamp on the top yoke?

It would bring the controls about an inch towards my short, short arms, and lower them slightly (not a huge concern).

As far as I see it the only issue I might have is with the master cylinder clearing the clocks (that  old chestnut again...) but is there a mechanical reason why it's a bad idea?

I'm looking at improving my riding position while I wait for my rearset plates to turn up, and then I can start all over again at the foot end...

Best regards,

Chris
 
Assume you are talking about Jota bars?
Why not rotate the middle section that is clamped to the top yoke through 180? and have the hand grips even closer to you?
That way you still have a wide range of adjustment left, rather than the grips in a weird position.
 
I removed the middle bit on mine,you do need a nut as you loose the threaded bit.I could never get clearance on my modified dash mounted in the bevel fairing and have anywhere near a comfortable hand position.I recon they dont have a fine enough mesh to get a good wrist angle for me.
 
No there isn't any reason why you can't, it's just there bugger all room to fit the rest of the stuff and frankly it feels a bit weird.  I've tried mine in all positions and combinations, weirdest was converting then to T-bars so I could reach when I had a jumbo tank bag on.  Still went back to tried and test drops in the end which have gradually got higher the older I get...
 
Grant said:
Assume you are talking about Jota bars?
Why not rotate the middle section that is clamped to the top yoke through 180? and have the hand grips even closer to you?
That way you still have a wide range of adjustment left, rather than the grips in a weird position.

Hi Grant,

I thought about that, but the master cylinder clonks the clocks. My way would drop the bars a bit and hopefully put the end of the master cylinder under the clocks instead of at the same level.

I guess I need to man up and unbolt them, and start experimenting. Not keen thought - every time I loosten handlebars I seem to dent the tank. Doesn't matter what bike. Perhaps I'll take the tank off for this one.....
 
veravista said:
No there isn't any reason why you can't, it's just there bugger all room to fit the rest of the stuff and frankly it feels a bit weird.  I've tried mine in all positions and combinations, weirdest was converting then to T-bars so I could reach when I had a jumbo tank bag on.  Still went back to tried and test drops in the end which have gradually got higher the older I get...

I've never really got on with drops...  I guess it feels weird because the handlebar ends up parallel to the road rather than with the ends sloped slightly down?
 
Chris,
you can find something like this Verlicchi bar ends with silent blocs. They bolt directly on to the bars centre piece.

Boba
 

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Ludi Boba said:
Chris,
you can find something like this Verlicchi bar ends with silent blocs. They bolt directly on to the bars centre piece.

Boba

Hi Boba!

Thanks for that - another option to mull over....

Chris
 
Rufustbear said:
Buy a Honda  :D :D :D :D :D

I've got one! With flat (ish) bars bolted to the top yoke. And it feels fine, because the tank is perhaps three inches shorter than the Bitzas....

Little yellow 400/4 - back on the streets again for the first time in 7 years....
 

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