Darmah Drama... No Laverda content

[3C-Wayne]

I'm trying to replace the small seal inside the counter shaft on 1982 900 Darmah.
How do you get the circlip out?
You can see where I've poked at it with small implements at the 3:00 position.

 

[Dellortoman]

It's a bit hard to recognise that shaft from the photo.

It's a while since I've been inside a bevel Ducati, so my memory is a bit hazy. I might have it all arse about, but the only shaft I can think of that has a seal in it would be the gearbox main shaft where the final drive sprocket sits and the clutch pushrod goes through. But I don't remember it looking like your photo. Where's the sprocket and what's happened to your clutch pushrod? Pushrod looks like it's been sawn off.

As for the circlip. I don't recall any special tool or secret trick to removing it. I reckon you just need to persevere and prise it out with a sharp pointed thing.

 

[Ventodue]

I think Wayne's good, Cam.  It's the one hi-lighted ('hi-lit' -? ...) below.

@ Wayne: like Cam, I don't remember any special difficulty getting it out, altho' obviously you need to get round the back of the clip, i.e. inside the retaining groove.  Pretty sure I used an angled dental pick, a bit like this ...

 

[blab]

Use two engineers scribers, about 6mm from each end of the circlip gouge the clip out and leave the scribers sitting between the circlip and the groove. Using 2 pairs of small needle nosed pliers, grab each end of the circlip and compress the circlip, it will pop straight off. Putting it back in is easy.

 

[3C-Wayne]

Cam, sprocket has been removed as I will replace the main shaft seal also.

That's the clip, #48 in diagram, it's only 28mm OD or so, and sits recessed in the main shaft.

I've tried a dental pick, the tip bends before the clip moves. Not much room to work, will try the 2 scribe technique.

Thanks,
Wayne

 

[3C-Wayne]

2 scribes - 6mm from ends of clip opening worked on first try. 

Thanks blab!

Duc forum sez no need to pull old seal out, just press in old seal further in to make room for up to 3 seals on top of the old seal.

I'll see about that...

 

[wdietz186]

Yes, just bang in another seal and while the sprocket is off check and flatten (sand on a piece of glass) the outer end of the spacer and the sprocket where they meet. Assemble with sealer on the spacer/sprocket and sprocket/nut faces. Oil creeps out along the splines under the spacer and centrifugal force throws it everywhere. The nut should be very tight too. I've forgotten the spec. but it is PFT.   

 

[Dellortoman]

The nut should be very tight too. I've forgotten the spec. but it is PFT. 

That sprocket retaining nut has to be done up tight to prevent oil leaking out. I forget the exact oil leakage path. Although I have a vague recollection that the oil gets out through the inside of the spacer tube that the shaft seal seals against if it isn't butted firmly up against a shoulder on the shaft. Something like that anyway.

Even with the tab washer to retain it, the nut on my MHR would loosen off enough to produce an oil leak. While it kept the chain nicely lubed, it made a mess of everything else. I eventually threw the tab washer away and simply put a bit of Loctite on the nut threads. It hasn't come loose since, and has remained oil tight for about 10 years now.

 

[Ventodue]

Another way of dealing with a persistent leak is to use two nuts and a wipe of silicone.  And seeing as it was a certain Steve Wynne who told me that, I ain't in no place to argue  .

As to the torque value for the nut, you have a choice: workshop manual at 10-12 Kgm.  Or owners handbook at 7-8 Kgm.

 

[3C-Wayne]

Thanks for all the tips here, am wondering if the seals were OK to begin with...

Nut was only hand tight when I disassembled, so now new seals,  re-surfaced all mating parts, goop'd up with yama-bond and nut is PFT.

Thanks to the brain trust here on Laverdaforums!

Wayne