De carbonising Zane heads and valves
- Thread starter ghwallice
- Start date
I found three different kind of oven cleaners.
All of them contain "anionic tensides" (correct translation to english anionic surfactants?).
Sodium hydroxide or caustic soda was not mentioned on any of them.
If I remember enough from chemistry lessons, I think tensides should not dissolve anything solid.
All of them contain "anionic tensides" (correct translation to english anionic surfactants?).
Sodium hydroxide or caustic soda was not mentioned on any of them.
If I remember enough from chemistry lessons, I think tensides should not dissolve anything solid.
ackie
New member
- Location
- Rosebud West, Vic, Oz
I used oven cleaner on a heavily carboned head and it worked fine. You need to do it in an open space preferably with a mask as the fumes are bad. It is also very good at removing anoidizing, usually a couple of goes.
This swingarm was anodized, a bit more polish and it will be sweet.
ackie
This swingarm was anodized, a bit more polish and it will be sweet.
ackie
Attachments
chrisk
Hero member
- Location
- Brisbane, Australia
5 cans of oven cleaner took all the anodising of my GSXR frame and swingarm.
It basically goes black, and a good scub with a wet scourer, or wet wet and dry paper, works a treat.
The contrete area I did it outside is now coated in a dry silver powder from the anodising.
You canny weld anything anodised, and I have use this method many times.
It basically goes black, and a good scub with a wet scourer, or wet wet and dry paper, works a treat.
The contrete area I did it outside is now coated in a dry silver powder from the anodising.
You canny weld anything anodised, and I have use this method many times.
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
If you use oven cleaner, make sure you wash it all off thoroughly. It'll eat into the aluminium if any cleaning chemical remains in contact with the metal. Might be a good idea to neutralise any remaining caustic soda by washing it in a mild acid like vinegar or citric acid, especially if there's a possibility of any caustic stuff remaining in cracks or cavities.
Bigfeesh
Full member
- Location
- Geordieland UK
I clean my favourite tea mug with oven cleaner, only once a year obvoiusly! Comes up iike new 
GregT
Hero member
- Location
- Christchurch NZ
I'm late to the party on this one - I don't look in as often as i did.
However, I do have to clean and decarbonise engine parts frequently...
What I used to use was Tergo - a product of the Auckland gas works. An evil smelling byproduct of the gas producing process, it would strip everything. Carbon, paint, skin...Now discontinued for environmental reasons.
The engine reconditioners have had to change to soak/cleaning solutions which are safe. As have I.
There are three commercial cleaning supplies companies locally. All have an automotive parts soaker/cleaner - usually around $30 for 5 litres of concentrate.
The one I favoured has again gone off the local market and it's replacement isn't quite as good.
Used at a 5 : 1 ratio with hot water, a set of CBR600 pistons - 1988, heavily carboned, oil stained....soaked for 3 days, came out exceptionally clean and ready for crack testing. This stuff doesn't touch paint or skin and used at the common 10 : 1 ratio cleans cases and finned barrels very well.
So what i'm saying is - touch base with the professional cleaner suppliers before you use caustic or any of the more dangerous cleaning methods....
However, I do have to clean and decarbonise engine parts frequently...
What I used to use was Tergo - a product of the Auckland gas works. An evil smelling byproduct of the gas producing process, it would strip everything. Carbon, paint, skin...Now discontinued for environmental reasons.
The engine reconditioners have had to change to soak/cleaning solutions which are safe. As have I.
There are three commercial cleaning supplies companies locally. All have an automotive parts soaker/cleaner - usually around $30 for 5 litres of concentrate.
The one I favoured has again gone off the local market and it's replacement isn't quite as good.
Used at a 5 : 1 ratio with hot water, a set of CBR600 pistons - 1988, heavily carboned, oil stained....soaked for 3 days, came out exceptionally clean and ready for crack testing. This stuff doesn't touch paint or skin and used at the common 10 : 1 ratio cleans cases and finned barrels very well.
So what i'm saying is - touch base with the professional cleaner suppliers before you use caustic or any of the more dangerous cleaning methods....