Denso brush plate 2 options

C

chaz

Junior member
I see there are two options for the new brush plate for a Denso 028510-0650 that was suggested.
YOU WILL RECEIVE THE BRUSH PLATE WITH EARTH BRUSH FITTED & THE POSITIVE BRUSH
(There is a No2 kit which is almost a mirror image if yours looks different)

which one do I need? I dont have the bike near me to check and want to get the parts before the task of spreading more parts on the floor!!
 
Your post doesn't make much sense so please provide some additional info to help us to help you.
I presume you are referencing the starter motor on a 750 since your earlier posts referenced an SF? Except I see you have just posted about a Zane?
After a bit of googling this came up on eBay - let us know if you are looking at something different and which bike.
 
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I had the old SF until Covid. Had to sell a lot of stuff as no one wants bike work done now, we have 2 bike shops closed in town now and Im not doing anything, so let the 2 MX shops work on the cruisers and 125's. Two other bike shops are running short hours now, a dying trade. I was giving up bikes , looking for a Corvette or Firebird again.
Then, a chap Ive known years, offered me the Zane, that I couldnt refuse.

I asked the question for the Zane and the reply was to fit new brushes or back plate , or try to get a Hayabusa starter.
when searching the numbers given, the options came up on the computer from ebay. they said there are two back plates, presumably positive or negative , Im assuming its negative earth BUT, I dont have the bike, son is working on it at his and Im getting parts.
 
chaz said:
I had the old SF until Covid. Had to sell a lot of stuff as no one wants bike work done now, we have 2 bike shops closed in town now and Im not doing anything, so let the 2 MX shops work on the cruisers and 125's. Two other bike shops are running short hours now, a dying trade. I was giving up bikes , looking for a Corvette or Firebird again.
Then, a chap Ive known years, offered me the Zane, that I couldnt refuse.

I asked the question for the Zane and the reply was to fit new brushes or back plate , or try to get a Hayabusa starter.
when searching the numbers given, the options came up on the computer from ebay. they said there are two back plates, presumably positive or negative , Im assuming its negative earth BUT, I dont have the bike, son is working on it at his and Im getting parts.
Click to expand...
If its a starter motor, they are mostly compound series wound with segmented commutator, will always only go in one direction no matter the polarity of the connection, extra brushes over two on the comm end usually equate to extra torque availability, HTH j.
 
iis_iis said:
If its a starter motor, they are mostly compound series wound with segmented commutator, will always only go in one direction no matter the polarity of the connection, extra brushes over two on the comm end usually equate to extra torque availability, HTH j.
Click to expand...
Hi John

Just for info:
The starter was the same as Ducrappi fitted to their bikes of the period. But of course Ducrappis turn the other way.

All Denso did was to change the brush plate (rotate them by 90°, is it? You'll know better than me ...). Denso part numbers: 128000-6050 for the Ducrappis, 228000-6520 for the Zanès.

I've done the 4-brush conversion, btw (750 Formula). Didn't make a lot of difference in my experience. It seems the only real solution (once you've fitted the biggest battery you can and upgraded the cables) is to change the gearing. 3C Moto used to have the kits for this, but I understand they've now sold out.
 

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chaz said:
I had the old SF until Covid. Had to sell a lot of stuff as no one wants bike work done now, we have 2 bike shops closed in town now and Im not doing anything, so let the 2 MX shops work on the cruisers and 125's. Two other bike shops are running short hours now, a dying trade. I was giving up bikes , looking for a Corvette or Firebird again.
Then, a chap Ive known years, offered me the Zane, that I couldnt refuse.

I asked the question for the Zane and the reply was to fit new brushes or back plate , or try to get a Hayabusa starter.
when searching the numbers given, the options came up on the computer from ebay. they said there are two back plates, presumably positive or negative , Im assuming its negative earth BUT, I dont have the bike, son is working on it at his and Im getting parts.
Click to expand...
Chaz,

See my reply above to John :-). This question has been MUCH MUCH discussed over the years, so I'll be brief:
1. Fit the biggest - that means with the most CCAs - battery you can. I use a Westco.
2. Fit the biggest cables you can.
3. Change the solenoid. The Hitachi unit can struggle.

4. Check the brushes are in good nick. They seem to be exceptionally soft and leave filth and residue all over the commutator.
5. Try a 4-brush conversion. I did, but didn't notice much difference.

6. Change the gears (see above).

And: jab the starter button, don't hold it on.
 
thanks Vento

Ive got a Motobatt , getting bigger wires. the new brush plate arrived today.
working all weekend now!! time to play later in the week
 
Following on from Ventodue extensive knowledge, had the occasion to convert a Triumph T160 to iis and deal with the positive frame connection of the battery. The iis can cope with reverse polarity as modern times would have us believe, even the long box, which with ignition on by way of iis configuration had -400V DC on the HT leads at all times ostensibly. Shocking thing to have on a motorcycle.... gee clever pun, no one has thought of... oblivious old person i be.

For a number of reasons ( not least an alternator upgrade on the Trident ) converted the system to negative battery frame connection scheme. Fitted a proper working RR ( Shindengen ), disconnected the Zener Diode underneath the headlight shell, left it there as it looks cool, starter motor as mentioned, no change required. While not pure in origins the Trident had better systems to improve on road travels.

BTW a positive frame vehicle is the correct polarity over negative to frame, goes back to cathodic and anodic protection, galvanic effects. The original British polarity was correct at inception. All telephone exchanges were negative battery ( minus 48VDC ) given the long lines and field galvanic effects of the connected cables, many hundreds of miles in certain cases. Marine protection systems similar though is more complex in applications. More riveting information... my pleasure, j
 
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