dismantling the head

Evan

Full member
Location
Texas
I have the head off SF15538. Was making the tapping sound & hoping its the flanges as everyone says. On the Rocker Spindles I can see the groves & then threads in the center. Need an extractor. Is the extractor a Laverda tool only? Green Bk says you must use Laverda Tool # 61818978. Manual just has a pic.
& then what size threads are in the center?
& then the valve spring compressor? Is this a Laverda tool only?
 
M6 X 1 holes from memory. Plenty of heat, warm it up nicely before drawing out the rocker spindles. Any type of puller will do, I used a stack of washers and spacers and different length bolts to draw them out. The slots help with putting it back together so the stud holes line up.
 
A simple extractor can be made with a bit of copper tube cut to length with a tube cutter (so it is dead straight) and washers, 6mm threaded bar with a nut to pull it out after heating a bit, I use a paint stripper gun. Most "G" shaped valve spring compressor tool will help get your springs back on.
 
Haven't done anything as of yet. So M6 x 1 threads & plenty of heat. & then turn cam to take loads off. Thanks for the info. I have mechanics who can give extra advice. (car mechs) Now Are there any screws or bolts elsewhere on Sfs, Sf2s, or GTs M6x1 I can use to make an extractor as I have 2 other engines.
I am also worried about tightness on the Rocker Spindle. Getting back to the cylinder sleeve I tried heating & tapping. Set the oven @ 450. Then hitting w/ one arm sledge hammer to no avail. Then tried again after Rust Buster. Complete dead end. Cyl sleeve did not budge! Back in storage. One Laverda Forum member posted that it can slide out on its own by the heat. Not even. Far from it. Should I take to an art class where they dry & heat clay art work & have a kiln? Put it in the Kiln???
 
I stand the barrel in the workshop oven at 150°C and wait for the thud and clatter when the barrel slides down the liners. These can then be wiggled out completely quite easily. Sometimes it simply doesn't work...

First of all, obtain a pair of fire/heat-proof gloves, excellent ones knitted from Kevlar thread are available from Sparco.

Heat the bugger to around 200°C. Set up a couple of 4x2s so you can place the hot cylinder block across them without obstructing the liners, preferably outdoors (a lot easier if the studs to the head are removed). Set your garden hose nozzle to a fine conical spray and turn on the tap. Set the hot cylinder on the wooden blocks with the head side down. Spray the inside of the liner with water, with a little luck, the liner simply falls out... simple physics. If that still doesn't do the trick, make an alloy plug that fits in the bottom of the liner and drive it out of the hot casting, either with a hammer or a hydraulic press. This can damage the liner if you're not careful!

Stubborn liners are usually contaminated with burnt oil that has found its way between liner and casting. Apart from glueing the liner to the casting, it can also hamper cooling to a point that a piston can sieze due to local overheating.

piet
 
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