Don`t look forward to this...

Which service tasks on a Laverda do you least look forward to ?
I`m not talking about balancing crankshafts or replacing valve guides but the more routine jobs that we all have to do .

For me , in No 3 spot , unless I can think of anything else , is tyre changing...
You may think this as an odd thing to tackle yourself nowadays but it`s always been something I`ve done myself , and I`ve got the battle scarred rims to prove it...not so much difficult as exhausting , just a full on wrestling match where I have to sit down to rest between rounds , with plenty of talcum powder and washing up liquid at the ready ( I know they say don`t use washing up liquid but after 25 minutes of struggling with the tyre levers I reach the point where I don`t really care any more ) .

In No 2 spot , is replacing brake piston seals...in a way this may not really apply as I don`t remember having any problems last time with the Brembos , but had to do this yesterday on another bike and after struggling most of an afternoon trying to get the buggers into place found the OEM replacements although the correct diameter , on closer inspection were almost twice the thickness of the old ones ; as I said nothing to do with Laverda ( Suzuki ) , but the whole thing`s pissed me off so much I`m going to include it anyway...

No 1 spot...180 degree inlet cams...that is when replacing cam chains .
Pistons at midway point (out of the way of the valves ) , exhaust cam in position with datum point lined up at 12 o`clock in relation to the bearing caps , and if you don`t nudge it it stays there (good) ...sadly the inlet cams natural resting position is with the datum mark at roughly 2 pm , so you have to use a ring spanner on one of the cam sprocket bolt heads to turn it towards the 12 o`clock position , hoping it doesn`t slip because if it does the cam will snap back to the 2 pm position with all the force the valve springs can muster .
Sometime around now you will have positioned the outer pistons at TDC , and draped the ends of the new camchain over the cam sprockets , whilst keeping an iron grip on that inlet cam...
Keeping the inlet cam in position with your right hand you reach for the chain connecting link with your left hand , which of course you have kept within easy reach so you don`t have to let everything go in order to retrieve it , and confident you have stuffed every orifice leading down to the sump with rags you then proceed to slide the connecting link into the exhaust end of the chain , which takes three or four attempts , and then of course you find it is impossible to connect it to the other end as that end of the chain is wrapped around the inlet cam sprocket and nowhere near the horizontal position it should be in to connect up .
It`s at this point your right hand finally loses it`s grip on the spanner holding the inlet cam in position and it snaps violently back to the 2 pm position , where it is obviously far happier...

Happily I found a way...grab a thin zip tie and loop it through a link or so back from the exhaust end of the chain (so you don`t block the connecting links way in obviously ) , the exhaust cam waiting patiently in the correct position .
Grab that spanner and move the inlet cam forward towards the 12 o`clock position with your right hand and with your left hand insert a second zip tie through the end (but not right at the end ) of the inlet end of the chain and then loop that through the other tie and connect them up ... this will help keep the inlet cam in more or less the right position and means the ends of the chain are now close enough to each other and positioned correctly so with a further slight nudge of the inlet cam and tightening of the zip ties you can now slip that connecting link into place....Thank Christ for that...

All that remains now is to fit the link side plate and spring clip with a pair of slim nosed pliers , another operation which requires the dexterity of a brain surgeon and the eye of Ronnie O`Sullivan , with all orifices still stuffed of course...Sorry to ramble on a bit but is there any other Laverda service task people least look forward to ?
 
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For me it has to be changing the oil. A frequent task as there is no oil filter !!! and the drain plug and filter screen just happens to be under the collector box WTF ! I have an EZI drain plug on my GSX1400 and an oil change is pure joy... done while my tea is brewing.
 
No 1 spot...180 degree inlet cams...that is when replacing cam chains ...
You're doing it wrong. All that fucking about with ring spanners on the sprocket bolts is folly that can only lead to frustration.

Get a set of vice grip pliers and lock them onto the bare shaft part of the inlet camshaft (to avoid damaging cam lobes) and well away from where you're working. Use the vice grips as a handle to rotate the inlet cam against the valve spring until it's mark lines up. Loop a cable tie on the handle of the vice grip and around some convenient frame member on the bike. Ratchet the cable tie up tight to hold the vice grip (and camshaft) in the correct location, then proceed with linking up the chain. Easy peasy. When done, snip off the cable tie and remove the vice grips.

If fitting a new chain, and it's a bit difficult to pull the ends together, you can use one of these things. Makes inserting the joining link so much easier.

chain puller.JPG
 
You're doing it wrong. All that fucking about with ring spanners on the sprocket bolts is folly that can only lead to frustration.

Get a set of vice grip pliers and lock them onto the bare shaft part of the inlet camshaft (to avoid damaging cam lobes) and well away from where you're working. Use the vice grips as a handle to rotate the inlet cam against the valve spring until it's mark lines up. Loop a cable tie on the handle of the vice grip and around some convenient frame member on the bike. Ratchet the cable tie up tight to hold the vice grip (and camshaft) in the correct location, then proceed with linking up the chain. Easy peasy. When done, snip off the cable tie and remove the vice grips.

If fitting a new chain, and it's a bit difficult to pull the ends together, you can use one of these things. Makes inserting the joining link so much easier.

View attachment 64917
Yes that sounds like it would work ok , but I don`t have vice grip pliers ( mole grips ? ) in my toolbox , always kind of grouped them in with hammers and chisels , if you know what I mean ; on the other hand I have got a fair selection of decent quality ring spanners so having those to hand that`s what I ended up using...

In total I replaced 15 cam chains on the Mirage ( one every 15,000 miles ) so quickly got used to doing it the way I described , no problem really , just one of the jobs I least looked forward to doing .

Another thing I`ve just remembered is removing the CDI coil / stator plate to solder in a replacement " dead mouse" ignition coil was a PITA as well , not exactly a scheduled service task but they would tend to overheat / turn brown every few years causing misfiring and eventually starting problems...a nuisance when it had to be done , I got through about 3 or 4 of those . To be fair this was the only recurring problem with the system , and because it was a well known issue meant that Alan Bell at Miura Engineering provided an excellent return of post exchange service for them so I was never off the road for long .

That chain end joiner looks interesting , but not sure if there would be enough clearance for it between cam chain and top frame tube to use it easily , could be ok though...
 
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Not a generic thing, as it's of my own making, but the thing I'm putting off is tuning the valve emulators in my SF's forks. The 35mm cherries have a stiffening sleeve halve way down the stanchion, so to get to the emulator, the fork has to come off for dismantling. I've been putting up with a harsh ride for quite a while now...
 
Not a generic thing, as it's of my own making, but the thing I'm putting off is tuning the valve emulators in my SF's forks. The 35mm cherries have a stiffening sleeve halve way down the stanchion, so to get to the emulator, the fork has to come off for dismantling. I've been putting up with a harsh ride for quite a while now...
Blimey , yes , front forks... they`re almost as baffling to me as electrics...what with emulators , cartridges etc...

Talking of which , once had to sort out a non functioning front brake light switch ( which when it does work needs both hands squeezing the lever before the bulb lights up )...
Ever tried following the wiring diagram on page 174 of the Green Book (original edition ) ?
You start off following the leads from the stoplight switch up past the fuses , with your finger following it across the page like some 5 year old learning to read , up into the headlamp connectors and out again , and end up looking at one of the bulbs in the speedo or something...how did that happen... ?
At least they could space the whole thing out a bit to make it easier to follow...

Forget brake caliper seals or inlet cams , I`ve just decided it`s sorting electrics as the thing I least look forward to , by a country mile...
 
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I have been thinking about this and the two things for me are dropping the barrels over the pistons and rings, never quite found it "easy" and the terrifying thing of torquing up the 9mm head studs to 25ft/lbs and no more (copper head gasket) alright on my own enegines which I Timecert all 12 as a matter of course, but on others!!!!! while the owner is watching, the straining on the bar waiting for first a buzz and then the click, whfeeww, it worked!
but I have to go with beaucars, I hate the cleaning and dnt do it very much.
CLEM
 
Had a set of ring compressors from Triumph specialist Norman Hyde for a T160V I never used , they were American made and were spring steel with a depth of about 3 inches and coiled within itself so you could expand or reduce them as required , this being controlled by a grub screw fastener in the same sort of way a jubilee or hose clip would work .

Decided to use them when re fitting the 1200 barrels over the pistons...had to press the emergency stop button about halfway through when one of those grub screws fell out of it`s holder and almost disappeared down into the sump...it only took a couple of turns out for the screw for this to happen...
Cold sweat time followed by relief I`d saved it followed by calling Norman Hyde and all Americans lots of rude names .

Got it sorted out in the end by cutting a section of the spring steel back to a length which just encircled the piston and no more ( and with no stupid grub screw holder getting in the way ) and securing it with a zip tie just below where the rings would be...squirt some oil down the bores and they slid on just fine , the most difficult bit being extracting the spring steel from the gap between base of barrel and crankcase mouth , but managed that ok in the end .
 
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