Melle
Full member
- Location
- Lelystad, the Netherlands
when taking apart an engine do not use a screwdriver!
DPO strikes again
- Thread starter Melle
- Start date
Simonr501
Hero member
- Location
- Lympne, Kent. UK
Well muellered, did he have hairy knuckles?
Monty500
Hero member
- Location
- Bodmin, Cornwall
OUCH!! 
Geoff
Geoff
Melle
Full member
- Location
- Lelystad, the Netherlands
Hy Piet,
don`t worry; the trays where out. Finish is by www.wetblast.nl. Pressurised hot water with a chemical cleaner.
Anybody knows who "henk" is ? I guess he made the RGS head into a SFC/Corsa head in 0287 (head was made in `84). The engine number is 1277 so the head is probably not the one the engine left the factory with (would have been made in 82/83 then ?). Bike originates from Germany.
Regards, Melle
don`t worry; the trays where out. Finish is by www.wetblast.nl. Pressurised hot water with a chemical cleaner.
Anybody knows who "henk" is ? I guess he made the RGS head into a SFC/Corsa head in 0287 (head was made in `84). The engine number is 1277 so the head is probably not the one the engine left the factory with (would have been made in 82/83 then ?). Bike originates from Germany.
Regards, Melle
Ernesto
Hero member
- Location
- Hamburg, Germany
Hi, Melle.
It's "Schenk", not "Henk". He used to stamp
repaired components with the full name, not
just an abbreviation.
Was a German Laverda dealer in the 70s and 80s,
as far as I remember in Wiesbaden.
Ernesto
It's "Schenk", not "Henk". He used to stamp
repaired components with the full name, not
just an abbreviation.
Was a German Laverda dealer in the 70s and 80s,
as far as I remember in Wiesbaden.
Ernesto
DoC!
Hero member
Now that IS a crying shame.... 
G
Grant
Guest
I recall some years ago that a UK firm advertised welding of fins etc back on to engines. After blasting the end result was almost imperceptible.
<can't recall who it was, maybe SRM.
Can anyone confirm or correct me?
<can't recall who it was, maybe SRM.
Can anyone confirm or correct me?
Melle
Full member
- Location
- Lelystad, the Netherlands
Ernesto said:
Thanks for the info Ernesto
regards, Melle
Laverda SF
Hero member
Double Ouch!- JB Weld?
Motorrad Schenk still exists to this day. They are now located in Idstein, close to Wiesbaden. Not many Lavs these days, mostly jap crotch rockets and the odd Triumph and Ducati.
Remember downing more than just a few beers with Klaus Schenk in Breganze, 1983. Nice bloke who also campaigned a 350 Manx in the then fledgling "classic" racing series.
The company is now run by his son, Michael(?), who took over after Klaus passed away.
piet
Remember downing more than just a few beers with Klaus Schenk in Breganze, 1983. Nice bloke who also campaigned a 350 Manx in the then fledgling "classic" racing series.
The company is now run by his son, Michael(?), who took over after Klaus passed away.
piet
CLEMTOG
Hero member
occasionally the crankcases will not part due to rust and corrosion on the plated studs which bolt them together, I have seen someone about to do serious damage to his cases because of this, here is what I did, it only happenned the once to me.
get out the arc (stick) welder, then make an adapter from a threaded rod extender like a hexagon nut but about 40mm long threaded all the way through, (a sleeve) you will need a 6mm one and an 8mm one easilly obtainalble form builders merchants for pennies, then with a short bit of rod in the extender, get a good earth for the lead on the welder, somehwre on the caes, and thengo to each stud in turn with your adapter, touch the eltrode holder on it and "blast" it with about 120/140amps for about 4 seconds, just to get the rod nice and hot, it might take a couple of pulses, and you might damage a stud (I didnt) do this to all of them if you dont know which stud is binding.
On reassembly just the lightest smear of copperslip will prevent future problems.
CLEM
get out the arc (stick) welder, then make an adapter from a threaded rod extender like a hexagon nut but about 40mm long threaded all the way through, (a sleeve) you will need a 6mm one and an 8mm one easilly obtainalble form builders merchants for pennies, then with a short bit of rod in the extender, get a good earth for the lead on the welder, somehwre on the caes, and thengo to each stud in turn with your adapter, touch the eltrode holder on it and "blast" it with about 120/140amps for about 4 seconds, just to get the rod nice and hot, it might take a couple of pulses, and you might damage a stud (I didnt) do this to all of them if you dont know which stud is binding.
On reassembly just the lightest smear of copperslip will prevent future problems.
CLEM
scuderia
Senior member
- Location
- San Francisco
i've repaired heads in similar shape by using another fin from a donor head or cylinder.. if you match up the shape and thickness and the welding goes well once ground and blasted it's pretty much good as new..