markQLD
Hero member
- Location
- QLD Australia
go bigger ya big woose! ya not racing at farken Bathurst ay !!Dellortoman said:
Drive chain
- Thread starter Dellortoman
- Start date
I would have thought for a track with a long straight that smaller on the rear would be better.Depends where it hits max revs I expect.I like the std gearing on my 3c but defiantly had problems climbing up the North side of Mt Hotham.Couldn't find the right gear to pull out of the 35kph bends on that big hill as well as it would on the flat,2nd was to high but 3rd was to low.Fun trying though
jotajoe
Hero member
- Location
- Warwickshire UK
Chain longevity.
So, in general terms if a non Oring chain is kept well lubricated, say with a Scottoiler, will the chain have as long a life as an O ring chain.
I have often thought it would as an O ring chain whilst keeping muck out of the rollers also prevents fresh lubricant from getting in.
But then, what do I know about chain
joe
So, in general terms if a non Oring chain is kept well lubricated, say with a Scottoiler, will the chain have as long a life as an O ring chain.
I have often thought it would as an O ring chain whilst keeping muck out of the rollers also prevents fresh lubricant from getting in.
But then, what do I know about chain
joe
andychain
Hero member
I get a lot of stick about my views on O ring chain etc.
Joe you are correct a well maintained non O ring will outlast at O ring
but it must be boiled which is a crap job.
Please dont get me started on oilers, not a bad idea on non O ring but
not good on any "ringed" chain.
Bugger I will wait for the flak
Andy
Joe you are correct a well maintained non O ring will outlast at O ring
but it must be boiled which is a crap job.
Please dont get me started on oilers, not a bad idea on non O ring but
not good on any "ringed" chain.
Bugger I will wait for the flak
Andy
jotajoe
Hero member
- Location
- Warwickshire UK
Thanks Andy,
I am intrigued : )
I have an oiler fitted to my Jota O ring 630 chain...I'm interested in your argument..so letssss hear it..I want to learn..
cheers
joe
I am intrigued : )
I have an oiler fitted to my Jota O ring 630 chain...I'm interested in your argument..so letssss hear it..I want to learn..
cheers
joe
andychain
Hero member
You answered your own question.
The rings keep lube in but also prevent re-lubing.
O ring or X over time will loose the lube and they are then history.
Look at a bike with an oiler and ring chain there will be oil everywhere. If
you must run an oiler then go to your local aquarium shop and get an air hose
clamp and reduce the flow to a very minimum. Then use diesel oil......cheaper
with lots of detegent.
Best method with a ring chian is to put diesel oil on a rag and run the chain through
it, it will clean and keep the rings subtle.
Best advice is to bin the 630 and convert to 530.
If you ride your bike every day all weathers an O ring etc makes sense otherwise
a non O ring is best.
Andy
The rings keep lube in but also prevent re-lubing.
O ring or X over time will loose the lube and they are then history.
Look at a bike with an oiler and ring chain there will be oil everywhere. If
you must run an oiler then go to your local aquarium shop and get an air hose
clamp and reduce the flow to a very minimum. Then use diesel oil......cheaper
with lots of detegent.
Best method with a ring chian is to put diesel oil on a rag and run the chain through
it, it will clean and keep the rings subtle.
Best advice is to bin the 630 and convert to 530.
If you ride your bike every day all weathers an O ring etc makes sense otherwise
a non O ring is best.
Andy
Cam,
My last EK chain sourced in Breganze from Riccardo Oro hardly lasted the 1100km trip home... I'll stick to DID in the future, thank you very much!
Alloy sprockets wear well, and are easier to machine if working from blanks. Industrial blanks are fine, if you need extra bling, have them anodised pink...
Don't hang yourself up with using all the gears in the box, especially on small tight circuits. You can often get away with taller gearing and only using the lower 4 gears. The stock Laverda 1st is ridiculously low, except for take-off, and is probably far more useful out of really tight corners when a 38 or 36T rear sprocket whereas 2nd might be far too high.
There are a few 18T #530 front sprockets floating around, keeps the size of the rear down a bit. A #520 chain is plenty big enough for the old clunkers, the reduction in weight is quite helpful as well.
piet
My last EK chain sourced in Breganze from Riccardo Oro hardly lasted the 1100km trip home... I'll stick to DID in the future, thank you very much!
Alloy sprockets wear well, and are easier to machine if working from blanks. Industrial blanks are fine, if you need extra bling, have them anodised pink...
Don't hang yourself up with using all the gears in the box, especially on small tight circuits. You can often get away with taller gearing and only using the lower 4 gears. The stock Laverda 1st is ridiculously low, except for take-off, and is probably far more useful out of really tight corners when a 38 or 36T rear sprocket whereas 2nd might be far too high.
There are a few 18T #530 front sprockets floating around, keeps the size of the rear down a bit. A #520 chain is plenty big enough for the old clunkers, the reduction in weight is quite helpful as well.
piet
jotajoe
Hero member
- Location
- Warwickshire UK
andychain said:
On my ring 630 chain, I have been using hypoid gear oil on drip from a version of the Scottolier...It seems to be coping..When you say diesel oil Andy, do you mean Diesel engine oil or diesel fuel..Pls excuse my viscosity ; )
joe
henry
Hero member
- Location
- bottom left hand corner of germany
andychain said:
nice tips, andy, thanks!
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
markQLD said:
The bike will initially be run on the road to sort out any bugs. Contrary to popular belief, Tassie is not all mountains and tight winding roads. We do have a couple of roads with straight sections.
redax5 said:
Last time I bought sprocket blanks (building rather complicated mechanical steering system in a boat) the local vendor had heaps of steel sprockets to choose from. Never occurred to me to that they might have Aluminium alloy. I would have used steel and riddled it with holes to reduce weight :
Cam
Cam
Have some weights of 530 and 520 components, a rear 520 Talon sprocket at 221g, rear Renthal 530 366g.
Front steel 530 401g vs slimmed to 520 @ 311g.
Total weight of a 530 kit 2905g,Chain 2137g, sadly I didn't weigh the 520 chain but a reduction in sprocket weight alone was 230g, estimated chain reduction weight (based on DID website) 25%.
520 kit as above estimated weight 2130g.
Rob
Have some weights of 530 and 520 components, a rear 520 Talon sprocket at 221g, rear Renthal 530 366g.
Front steel 530 401g vs slimmed to 520 @ 311g.
Total weight of a 530 kit 2905g,Chain 2137g, sadly I didn't weigh the 520 chain but a reduction in sprocket weight alone was 230g, estimated chain reduction weight (based on DID website) 25%.
520 kit as above estimated weight 2130g.
Rob
Attachments
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
Interesting. Thanks Rob
mauricejota7604
Hero member
- Location
- Victoria Australia
I am not sure about the alloy rear sprockets my red 3C destroyed a rear in 8000 "gentle" Kms that was with a non oring chain that I fitted to try and gain a little more clearance where the chain passes through the crankcases, but replaced the alloy sprocket with another one but geared her up to 38 teeth after riding Cosis bike and used a Tsubaki x ring 530 that is .5mm wider than the non oring just need to do some kms on her now.