Drive train rivetting

  • Thread starter Thread starter Terry Dymond
  • Start date Start date
I whole hardly support Andy in this argument with his hammer blow as I've had a clip fall off where the master link has half fallen threw and the only thing that keep her in there was rubbing against the web of the drum.

But I say a wired clip against the plate master link does work providing the wire is thin enough so that it does not rub against the sprocket.

The last thing you need is for that 530 chain to unravel. Just think what it would do to the tranny output cavity let a lone to your leg or experience a sudden lockup.

No doubt a Clipped Master Link is handy when you don't have to re-align the rear wheel to the swing arm or have to re-tension the chain.

Masterlinksafetywirednx2.jpg

Forgive me that's a Honda example but I use the same principle on my Breganze SF.
 
Laverda SF said:
No doubt a Clipped Master Link is handy when you don't have to re-align the rear wheel to the swing arm or have to re-tension the chain.
Click to expand...

Que??
 
Laverda SF said:
Masterlinksafetywirednx2.jpg

Forgive me that's a Honda example but I use the same principle on my Breganze SF.
Click to expand...

If that is a Laverda with the chain on the right hand side of the bike, I reckon the split link forked thingy is on the wrong way round. The closed end should face the direction of travel.
 
Ron did say it's on a Honda.
Click to expand...

UN-doubtfully that is a Left Chain Drive example I posted.

You never know - I could have reversed the PIC - LOL

Who needs o-rings anyway?
Click to expand...

I do and use a Silicon Chain Lubricant, but you do have to file and open up the drive cage cavity for clearance.

My KWIK 530 O (or X) Ring chain, with yearly maintenance, has been on the bike for 20 years and virtually maintenance free.

Perhaps it's telling you I've slowed down over the years.


 
There is another option that has not been mentioned I think, the EK Screw-Type Master Link <http://www.moto-chains.com/site/898528/product/mstr%20-%20screw>. I've used this several times and no chains have fallen off yet. I did have a failure during installation once, but I cannot now remember the details. I also had to take one off for some forgotten reason and it put up an impressive fight. I'd be curious to know Andy Chain's opinion of these. I expect he'll see it as unnecessary complexity for a simple job. I'm inclined to see it that way now too. Personally, I like the idea of safety-wiring a traditional clip and I'll definitely try that the next time a chain needs attention.

Eric
 
The nuts do not stay on. When you have tightened them sufficiently, the protruding "bolt" snaps off, leaving the plate securely pinned. Clever bit of metallurgy.
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So as Andy says your just as well to use a hammer. Grant, one requires the finesse of THOR on how to use that hammer - HIC!

We are a Sick Lot - LOL
 
Bought myself a nifty rivetter today; works by screwing a tapered shaft into the  hollowed-out end of the pin and spreading it out.
Sorry for not following your instructions Andy, not really adept at hitting things that need to be hit with a hammer and now that I'm an old age pensioner 8), can't really afford to fuck it up.
 
Yah ! Terry, I been looking at that kit for years but I still want a maintainable Master Link.

Actually my Buddy has that Kit riding an 81 Harley FXWG . His rear sprocket is on the wheel hub - You really don't want to have anything to do with a Locked Master Link under that design; but each to their own.
 
It is only the huge number of poorly designed clips made out of shit material
that has increased the "spring clip problem". We have made a simple task very
complicated.

The idea of a pin shearing off as with the EK link is also a bit scary when the
pin should be hardened. Wonder what damage is being done.

Hans (Renold) must be spinning in his grave.
 
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