Drivechain- Laverda Jota Series II 180 - 1981 Model Year
- Thread starter Manticore
- Start date
- Location
- Calgary, Alberta, Canada
if the chain needs replacing, odds are that the sprockets do as well.
I would not replace an original big heavy 630 chain, if the bike has not already been converted, convert to a pair of 530 sprockets and any good quality 530 chain.
some folks are still keen on non O ring chain and use a drip oiler, too messy for my tastes, otherwise I would probably just use a high quality non sealed chain, but I don't want to cope with the amount of cleaning a non sealed drive chain makes necessary.
other folks insist on riveting their chain together after cutting to length, I like to be able to more easily remove a drive chain so I use a master link, with the retaining clip pointed the correct way and smeared with a bit of silicone for extra piece of mind.
hopefully AndyChain comes along and educates us on the latest and greatest in drive chains.
in the meantime here is a very short writeup of the difference's between non O ring, O ring, and X ring chains.
http://www.biketorqueracing.co.uk/btr-tech-station/btr-tech-station-chain-and-sprockets/o-ring-and-x-ring-chains
For my Kawasaki ZX 14 to reduce friction I am using ceramic wheel bearings, the best X ring chain I could find, etc., as I am still hoping to break 200 mph on the Salt Flats and I am looking for every fractional improvement and supposedly the X ring chain is much lower friction than an O ring chain, while still keeping lubrication in. Another school of thought is to just use non sealed drive chain for salt flats use and then discard them after a few runs before the salt has a chance to eat them.
For my three Laverda triples, two have good quality O ring 530 chains supplied by Wolfgang Haerter with new 530 sprockets, the third has an excellent quality X ring 530 chain also on new 530 sprockets, I can't tell the difference in real world use between the O ring and X ring chains on the Laverda's, and I have not worn any of the three out yet.
then there is the debate on chain lubrication and what is best, almost as bad as tire or oil threads......
Paul LeClair
I would not replace an original big heavy 630 chain, if the bike has not already been converted, convert to a pair of 530 sprockets and any good quality 530 chain.
some folks are still keen on non O ring chain and use a drip oiler, too messy for my tastes, otherwise I would probably just use a high quality non sealed chain, but I don't want to cope with the amount of cleaning a non sealed drive chain makes necessary.
other folks insist on riveting their chain together after cutting to length, I like to be able to more easily remove a drive chain so I use a master link, with the retaining clip pointed the correct way and smeared with a bit of silicone for extra piece of mind.
hopefully AndyChain comes along and educates us on the latest and greatest in drive chains.
in the meantime here is a very short writeup of the difference's between non O ring, O ring, and X ring chains.
http://www.biketorqueracing.co.uk/btr-tech-station/btr-tech-station-chain-and-sprockets/o-ring-and-x-ring-chains
For my Kawasaki ZX 14 to reduce friction I am using ceramic wheel bearings, the best X ring chain I could find, etc., as I am still hoping to break 200 mph on the Salt Flats and I am looking for every fractional improvement and supposedly the X ring chain is much lower friction than an O ring chain, while still keeping lubrication in. Another school of thought is to just use non sealed drive chain for salt flats use and then discard them after a few runs before the salt has a chance to eat them.
For my three Laverda triples, two have good quality O ring 530 chains supplied by Wolfgang Haerter with new 530 sprockets, the third has an excellent quality X ring 530 chain also on new 530 sprockets, I can't tell the difference in real world use between the O ring and X ring chains on the Laverda's, and I have not worn any of the three out yet.
then there is the debate on chain lubrication and what is best, almost as bad as tire or oil threads......
Paul LeClair
D
Davo
Guest
Paul LeClair said:then there is the debate on chain lubrication and what is best, almost as bad as tire or oil threads......
Paul LeClair
For your interest:-
http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/122_0506_motorcycle_chain_lube/
lawrence
Hero member
- Location
- Idaho, USA
Andy is a prince, a fellow who's able and willing to handle any and all chain questions. He posts here and makes the rounds at meetings where chain(s) may pop up in polite conversation.
CLEMTOG
Hero member
he is also a very pleasant fellow, who takes the piss, and has good laugh all the time, and will come to your club night for a reasonable fee and give you a good talking to (on chains and the righting of the world).
The very best thing about him is his no nonsense attitude, non brand loyalty (he will sell you what is best for your given application) wont in any shape or form rip you off,and even helps out our competing members with massive discounts or even free chains that leaves him with not even enough money for a pint of his much beloved cider
try looking up www.thechainman
I have been buying all drive chains, cam chains and primary chains for all my bikes (not just Laverda's) from him for a long time, many thanks to dave laker an ex laverda owner who introduced him to Laverda circles, I was responsible for making this Laverda wide knowledge.When I first met Andy (surname Forsdick) I was replacing a triple cam chain, the previous one, was bought from a known source and it was shot at around 20,000 miles, it had cost me ?80 two years earlier, the replacement was still good (only changed for security) at 40,000 miles and had cost me less than ?20, but that was a few years ago.
I can pass on his phone number if you pm me if that is needed
CLEM
The very best thing about him is his no nonsense attitude, non brand loyalty (he will sell you what is best for your given application) wont in any shape or form rip you off,and even helps out our competing members with massive discounts or even free chains that leaves him with not even enough money for a pint of his much beloved cider
try looking up www.thechainman
I have been buying all drive chains, cam chains and primary chains for all my bikes (not just Laverda's) from him for a long time, many thanks to dave laker an ex laverda owner who introduced him to Laverda circles, I was responsible for making this Laverda wide knowledge.When I first met Andy (surname Forsdick) I was replacing a triple cam chain, the previous one, was bought from a known source and it was shot at around 20,000 miles, it had cost me ?80 two years earlier, the replacement was still good (only changed for security) at 40,000 miles and had cost me less than ?20, but that was a few years ago.
I can pass on his phone number if you pm me if that is needed
CLEM
JCL
New member
- Location
- Hertfordshire, UK
Hopefully this link should work: www.the-chain-man.co.uk
andychain
Hero member
Thanks guys.
The debate rages in every forum on lube to put it quickly:-
Pin dia of O ring and nonO ring the same, this is the bearing area so important.
Iwis non O ring has a chromised pin which O ring and most chains dont have.
This gives good wear and is usually only found on automotive cam drives.
Bikes dont break chain they wear them so a big heavy chain whacking round
at umpty umpt rpm is not good.
If you ride all weathers then a O ring makes good sense but please dont
lube it and dont use an auto lube, anything put on the outside of the chain
will go 2 places,wheel and road. If you must lube deisel engine on rag run
over the chain....loads of detergent.
Same applies to most sprays as very little gets to the bearing surface.
The only way to lube a chain is to boil it in wax but its smelly and a pain in
the arse.
Andy
The debate rages in every forum on lube to put it quickly:-
Pin dia of O ring and nonO ring the same, this is the bearing area so important.
Iwis non O ring has a chromised pin which O ring and most chains dont have.
This gives good wear and is usually only found on automotive cam drives.
Bikes dont break chain they wear them so a big heavy chain whacking round
at umpty umpt rpm is not good.
If you ride all weathers then a O ring makes good sense but please dont
lube it and dont use an auto lube, anything put on the outside of the chain
will go 2 places,wheel and road. If you must lube deisel engine on rag run
over the chain....loads of detergent.
Same applies to most sprays as very little gets to the bearing surface.
The only way to lube a chain is to boil it in wax but its smelly and a pain in
the arse.
Andy
I stopped lubing O ring chains especially on dirt bikes years ago,the lube combined with sand to me looked like a stupid idea.So I don't do anything to O ring chains BUT I am constantly told my chains look like they need lubing.So just to confirm Andy,you recommend NO LUBE ON O RING CHAINS.RIGHT.
beauchemin
Senior member
- Location
- Victoria, British Columbia
Andy -- is your email address working? I've been trying to contact you to place an order. Chris
Cosi
Hero member
- Location
- Kingscliff
and no lube on x rings also
D
Davo
Guest
AndyW said:Hey Andy,
Doesn't the sprocket and outer side of the (o-ring) chain roller need any lubrication? I've been spraying mine (Honda XRV750) with a Silicone/PTFE spray in an attempt to preserve the life of the sprockets.. are you suggesting this too is a waste of time?
Rgds
AndyW
See http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/122_0506_motorcycle_chain_lube/ as posted earlier in this thread. :-*