Dropping only the sliders for fork seal change?

Very soon I am going to need to replace the fork seals, I have done this several times without problems. Now I am wondering what the obstacles might be to simply removing the front wheel and brake calipers, then loosening the allen bolt that holds the staunchion to the slider and pulling each slider down and off?
First things first remove both the drain screws from the lower part of slider pumping the forks to expediate fluid drainage  then dropping the sliders as proposed above.  Replace seals refit sliders wheel and brakes then remove top fo fork caps and refill.
What would be the drawbacks of using this approach? As opposed to removing the complete fork leg from the yokes/triple clamps. Comments and input very much appreciated, Dave
 
Certainly doable Dave, but not sure what the advantage would be. By the time you've done all you suggest there's only four triple clamp pinch bolts left to loosen and remove the forks. You don't mention removing the mudguard.
 
Thats how I did mine last time. The only tricky bit was I had forgot you need to lift the lower leg a bit and bang it down like a slide hammer to get it off its taper. Take real care sliding it back on you don't nick a seal, lube them first.
 
It's a useful saving of time on the early bikes since the dumb design of the fork cap means you have to remove the fork cap to slide the fork out of the triple clamps... and you have to remove handlebars, instruments etc to get the fork cap off!  So if all else is good it might save some effort except for how do you fill them with oil after reassembly??  I think the shortcut might end up taking longer, better to just do it the normal way.
 
It?s the way I?ve always changed mine. It gives me a chance to inspect the sliders and give them a good clean and polish, the mudguard, too.
I find it easy to fit the newly-oiled seals and to refit the slider to the stanchion. Over the years I?ve found fitting a ring of WD40 soaked stockinette under the dust cap (take it out and replace, as necessary) traps the dust and gives a longer life to the seals.
 
If the OD of the top cap is reduced to 37.8mm on Ceriani forks, the complete fork leg can be dropped without disturbing handlebars or instruments.  All work can then be performed comfortably on the workbench/front lawn/kitchen counter... :D

Marzocchi legs can be dropped easily without mods.

Stock headlamp brackets hold the headlamp assembly nicely in place, aftermarket headlamp brackets can certainly throw a spanner in the works.

piet
 
sfcpiet said:
If the OD of the top cap is reduced to 37.8mm on Ceriani forks, the complete fork leg can be dropped without disturbing handlebars or instruments.  All work can then be performed comfortably on the workbench/front lawn/kitchen counter... :D

Marzocchi legs can be dropped easily without mods.

Stock headlamp brackets hold the headlamp assembly nicely in place, aftermarket headlamp brackets can certainly throw a spanner in the works.

piet

That's a very elegant solution Piet. Too bloody easy!
 
The Sock said:
Over the years I?ve found fitting a ring of WD40 soaked stockinette under the dust cap (take it out and replace, as necessary) traps the dust and gives a longer life to the seals.

Is this a common mod? I understand the thinking, and I?ve now seen it several times - although I?m not sure I like it... The rag tends to hold water so I?ve always packed grease in the cavity. Although I?m open to opinions..?
 
Andy said:
Is this a common mod? I understand the thinking, and I?ve now seen it several times - although I?m not sure I like it... The rag tends to hold water so I?ve always packed grease in the cavity. Although I?m open to opinions..?

Either the oil seals work... or they don't.

Packing the cavity with grease or anything else containing lube tends to "over-oil" the stanchion, attracting dust and other crap to adhere to the stanchion, which in turn achieves the exact opposite of what is wanted.

Maybe more attention should be put to the condition of the dust seals, I often see them with a couple of layers of tape holding them together, insted of being replaced 13 years ago.  For additional protection, the upper seal can be replaced with a dust-lipped type.  The downside is additional stiction.

piet
 
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