drum wheel rebuild 3C

michipons

Hero member
Hi all!

I've been a bit disconnected last weeks. Slowly starting my real work again. And many projects in the workshop... So I thought I could put some of my last works on the 3C.

I rebuilt the rear wheel completely. Polishing, re-spoking with stainless spokes from Central Wheels, plating all bolts, nuts, springs and so on, bearings etc... If you remember I posted long time ago the rebuild of the front wheel, that was pretty straight forward. This one has needed a bit more attention to trueing, the angle of the spokes makes it more difficult! But I am quite happy with the result.

A few photos... and thanks for watching!

Miguel

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Hi all!

I've been a bit disconnected last weeks. Slowly starting my real work again. And many projects in the workshop... So I thought I could put some of my last works on the 3C.

I rebuilt the rear wheel completely. Polishing, re-spoking with stainless spokes from Central Wheels, plating all bolts, nuts, springs and so on, bearings etc... If you remember I posted long time ago the rebuild of the front wheel, that was pretty straight forward. This one has needed a bit more attention to trueing, the angle of the spokes makes it more difficult! But I am quite happy with the result.

A few photos... and thanks for watching!

Miguel

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Nice work bro ! Not bad for a fly boy.
 
God job Miguel. Just wondering how do you get the right spoke tension. Wheel builders seem to be split into 2 groups.

Some (probably most) professional wheel builders use a torque wrench on the spokes. Others do it by ear (tap the spoke and listen to the "ting" sound). The torque wrench guys reckon any other method is prone to errors. The "do it by ear" guys reckon it's been done that way for 100 years and is a perfectly reliable method.

I'm a do it by ear guy, mainly because I don't have a spoke torque wrench. I've probably only built about 20 wheels, but never had one fail that I know of.
 
Very nice resto work, Miguel.

Spoke tension meters are very useful, but you can't absolutely rely on them because various issues affect spoke tension ands balance, especially with well-used rims. Any imperfections may require higher tension in some areas than others, and this has to be balanced over a number of spokes (not trying to pull a rim across with high tension on one or two spokes). I've done hundreds of bicycle wheels and quite a few moto wheels. I usually use a tension meter for bikes but do it by feel on motos, but with ratty bent bicycle wheels I have enough experience to be able to get them straight enough without using the meter.
 
Never done a bicycle wheel. I reckon they'd be a bit more tricky than motorcycle wheels.
I know tension meters are used on bicycle wheels. But I'd have thought motorcycle spokes too short and stiff for a tension meter.
 
I think the toque wrenches started with the insane hits of Supercross big jumps, that would produce massive forces,damage a rim and your out of a race so building super strong reliable wheels needed high spoke tension and consistant repeatable spoke tension as well
 
Hi Miguel, are you planning to reinstall the external return spring?
I can imagine that may have been necessary if there was friction in the eccentrics and bushes or the cable but with your total rebuild then that should not be necessary?
I've done similarly with the opposed levers of the earlier Laverda drums to push the levers apart and reduce dragging brakes but haven't yet seen the need with the later style drum brakes with their parallel moving arms. Do you see problems with those brakes dragging on release?
Good to see the AW reference book used to make sure all the parts go back into the right place - despite the many complaints about his prices, I'm grateful that he provides those diagrams and notes, I've bought and use his 750 and triple copies too.
 
This is how Laverda used to overcome the servo effect of drum brakes. 750 ex racer. Extended brake actuation arms and inner tube.

PaulBrake 1.jpgBrake 2.jpg
 
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