Ease of getting Neutral when Stopped

Can you easily get neutral when stopped

  • Total voters
    32
Laverdalothar said:
Wouldn't it maybe make sense to get rid of some of these teeth? Could imagine they still would work if you - say - eleminate either equal parts around the clutch basket or maybe every 3rd? One could easily try it first on the plates and then - if successful - on the basket...
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Don't think so.  The pressure on the remaining teeth/splines will increase.  The inclined angle of the friction surfaces might also come into play.  I could imagine the plates "wedging" themselves into the drum splines through drive forces, further inhibiting movement.  With conventional slots, no such forces occur.

Doesn't matter where the teeth are removed, no contact = no friction.

piet
 
Well I can't change my vote in the poll but I can now change into neutral after stopping in gear - hurrah  :D :D

Turns out it was just the clutch cable adjustment. I adjusted both ends and now it works fine. Maybe you other blokes should check yours  ;)

 
Grant said:
Sort of what I said then.
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It certainly was. The issue was I had no idea how the adjustment worked at both ends, or how much adjustment was available. You learn something new every day.

Also the new lever helped a little.
 
I have a little bit of clutch drag on both of my triples. Next time I have the primary cover off, I'll disassemble the clutch and make sure I've got all the metal plates the same way around. It never occurred to me to do that before, but someone mentioned it in another clutch thread a little while back.
 
I'm planning an experiment with bicycle compressionless brake housing (much stronger than compressionless gear, which would explode trying to run a Laverda clutch!), neoprene lined ... it doesn't have the radial coils of a normal cable housing, but longditudinal wire strands. I'm hoping it will have a more 'direct' feel and move the lever a tad more than a coil housing.

I'll let everyone know how it goes ... once I get the two goddam bike builds anywhere near that stage!
 
Piranha Brother 2 said:
... it doesn't have the radial coils of a normal cable housing
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Nor does mine. They're circumferential or spiral wound.  ;)

Pedantry aside. I had no idea there was such a thing as a cable outer with longitudinal wires. I had to google compressionless cable. 

Here's a photo I found showing the conventional and compressionless. Thanks Quentin. It's a good day when you learn something new :)


cable-types_1.jpg
 
I suppose the vinyl outer becomes more critical than on spiral wound, as if it gets abraded there is a chance the metal strands could bow out at that spot.
But probably not too noticeable.
Most cables on the bike can get abraded where they have hard contact with the frame.
 
Piranha Brother 2 said:
I'm planning an experiment with bicycle compressionless brake housing (much stronger than compressionless gear, which would explode trying to run a Laverda clutch!), neoprene lined ... it doesn't have the radial coils of a normal cable housing, but longditudinal wire strands. I'm hoping it will have a more 'direct' feel and move the lever a tad more than a coil housing.

I'll let everyone know how it goes ... once I get the two goddam bike builds anywhere near that stage!
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Quentin,

That type of cable has been used for H-D clutches for donkeys years, never had a single issue with these in my 8 years with the marque.  They are a bit stiff to route smoothly though (not only H-D, but also HD, heavy duty!), might have a bit of a problem getting through the bend to the actuating lever.

piet
 
I must be doing something wrong... rode the Jota yesterday did about 160 odd miles in rural and suburbia .. never had an issue with nuetral and purposely stopped at the lights then put into neutral to see what all the fuss is about ... oh and my left wrist is still good and not aching.........a well routed, correctly adjusted and oiled cable, nicely greased purch pivot and no issues what so ever...
 
Brett said:
I must be doing something wrong... rode the Jota yesterday did about 160 odd miles in rural and suburbia .. never had an issue with nuetral and purposely stopped at the lights then put into neutral to see what all the fuss is about ... oh and my left wrist is still good and not aching.........a well routed, correctly adjusted and oiled cable, nicely greased purch pivot and no issues what so ever...
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As I said above, I've managed to fix it and can now engage neutral at stop.

I think we've established it was a combination of things but ultimately proper adjustment was the issue. These are old bikes and who knows what state everyones gearbox is in.
 
Took the SF2 out today and was very surprised.
Could snick it into neutral at a standstill with only the slightest nudge of the lever.
What's up?
Paul
 
Dellortoman: Clean the clutch pac with lacquer thinner, bake the disc's with a propane torch, scuff components with 280 grit and stick with HDEO 15w40 oil in the pan.

Who the fuck cares if you have to reach down when stopped to shift into neutral, at least the clutch isn't rattling or slipping when shifting into gears or finding a false neutral.
 
Ron, there's nothing wrong with the Kevlar clutch plates in my bike. I just wasn't as meticulous as I could have been when assembling the clutch.

I'd need to be built like an orang-utan to use my hand on the gear lever. As the clutch lever is on the left, I'd need to use my right hand, but my shift lever is on the left. Much easier to knock it into neutral just before I stop.

Cheers,
Cam
 
Dellortoman: I don't use Kevlar plates just to the old asbestos ones and don't have issues shifting other then when at stopped it's easier, rather then using a sloppy foot, I reach down with my hand and simply pull the lever up a 1/2 notch to find neutral - No Big Deal.

Besides, it looks cool and a typical Breganzie tranny characteristic behavior in my opinion.

Over all I can say the Breganzie has one of the best shifting trannies of any motorcycle I've ridden.
 
Laverda SF said:
Dellortoman: I don't use Kevlar plates just to the old asbestos ones and don't have issues shifting other then when at stopped it's easier, rather then using a sloppy foot, I reach down with my hand and simply pull the lever up a 1/2 notch to find neutral - No Big Deal.

Besides, it looks cool and a typical Breganzie tranny characteristic behavior in my opinion.

Over all I can say the Breganzie has one of the best shifting trannies of any motorcycle I've ridden.
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Sure sign of a poorly set up clutch/shifter arrangement... :D

Cannot understand why one should put up with second-rate stuff, if first-rate potential is present.

While the Breganze gearbox is quite OK from a durability POV, it is in no way a slick shifter.  More a crash box compared with contemporary jap boxes (and even miles behind the AMC box in my Matchless thumper!).  Slick shifting Laverdas arrived with the 500 gearbox.  The 120 gearbox was a complete re-vamp, possibly the best of the big boxes... but still quite agricultural! :D

piet
 
I'm not going to argue with you sfcpiet but my shifter is indexed correctly. When softly up shifting at stop from 1st to find neutral, you tend to go through neutral and into 2nd because there is no hard stop as compared to a positive up shift from 1st into 2nd and one's foot tends to be nervous to make that soft lift as 50% of the time you miss it. It's just simpler for me to reach down and ensure finding neutral with a slight flic of my wrist.

What aggravates to issue is having a dirty clutch pac and Rear-Sets don't make it any easier.

I occasionally find a false neutral when up shifting with that long throw from 4th to 5th if I'm not deliberate with the shift.
 
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