Electrickity gubbins

padlock

Hero member
Location
bedford Uk
Does anyone have a pic of a custom electric set up using a m unit. i want to try and fit the lot under the seat but have very limited space. I'm not helped much by the fact i don't have a clue what gubbins are involved. Cheers.

  FFF
 
Dear FFF, 
:D

Check this thread out on the forum, it may hold some answers to your M-Unit issue

http://www.laverdaforum.com/forum/index.php/topic,91544.msg328698.html#msg328698

Good luck
 
Thanks red, unfortunately it hasn't really made anything clearer to me, for instance: why do you need a different relay for the starter as the unit has one rated at 30 amps( whatever the fuck amps are) and why another for indicators when again the unit has one. Regulator/ rectifier, do I still need them? Bike will be running a redax ignition. Just trying to gauge if I can squash everything under the seat pan between the frame rails.

FFF
 
padlock said:
Thanks red, unfortunately it hasn't really made anything clearer to me, for instance: why do you need a different relay for the starter as the unit has one rated at 30 amps( whatever the fuck amps are) and why another for indicators when again the unit has one. Regulator/ rectifier, do I still need them? Bike will be running a redax ignition. Just trying to gauge if I can squash everything under the seat pan between the frame rails.

FFF

'cos the stock relay is rated at 75A and is already a bit stretched.  Starter can draw in excess of 250A, the 30A relay will survive 2-3 start procedures before emitting smoke... :D

Didn't you pay attention in physics at school?

piet
 
padlock said:
... why another for indicators when again the unit has one. Regulator/ rectifier, do I still need them? Bike will be running a redax ignition.

Dear Mr P. Lock

RTFMUM  (read the fucking M-Unit manual)  :D

One of features listed in the M-Unit manual is  "Integrated, digital, load-independent flasher relay with programmable switch off feature". Which means you don't need a flasher relay for the indicators.

The "load independent" bit means you can use LED or incandescent indicator lamps (if using LEDs they are polarity sensitive so must be wired the right way around). The "programmable switch off" is a timed self cancel feature. It can also operate in hazard light mode, flashing all indicators together, but you'll need a separate switch to activate that function.

The M-Unit does not perform the regulator or rectifier functions, so you still need to install a R/R.

Let me know if you need help designing a wiring diagram.

Cheers,
cam
 
This is what I did on my current project, using a M-Unit and also a Motoscope panel and a M-Lock system from motogadget, maybe this can help?
 

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What's school? Is it a modern invention and is that where you get amps? Thanks for the help and info, that last map of the underground I can almost understand! So is it recommended to get an uprated starter relay rather than the standard Laverda one.?

FFF
 
padlock said:
So is it recommended to get an uprated starter relay rather than the standard Laverda one.?
well, not a recommendation Padders, but i once read on this forum about 'modern' starter relays that also provide a fused supply to feed the rest of the harness.
thought it was a good idea, so got myself a relay from the wreckers off a 'Honda something' for little cost.
DSCN0794_01.jpg

i'm sure others here can advise on benefits (or not), but i like having only one heavy cable (for the starter) connected to the battery.
have fun.
cheers,  Mark

 
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