Engine Out Tips ?

tribonnie

tribonnie

Full member
Location
uk
Have 77 Jota with oil weep from head gasket, possible barrel base also.
My plan is to take head and barrel off with engine in frame then …..
Take engine out and take opportunity to get frame painted and head and barrels blasted
Am a first time Laverda owner so any hints and tips appreciated
Richard
 
don't,
its fraught with problems, * take the engine out as a whole.
use 10mm rod through the front and rear engine mounts to give you a pair of lifting handles, remove cam cover and drain plug, plus inner and outer gearbox covers

* to take the head off in situ, you have to remove the studs from the crankcase, most come out by "double nutting" and all will loosen by doing the same, but a few of them clash with the frame tube, when you try to remove them, and in order to get them out you have to strip all the coils and electrics off the front of the frame, then lift the head with the awkward studs loose, and tilt it to the left, to then remove the dangling studs, it works OK, you need a helper realy, but can easily damage the threads in the crankcase, if they are all good and possibly factory fitted LEAVE THEM IN PLACE, they are never as good as factory fitted, plenty have to deal with that though, (Timecerts is my own choice) but since you say you are going to remove the bottom end? why bother, take the lump out and you will be safer. then the hassle of the chain becomes a doddle, you can remove it whenever you choose and fit it last, after the head and barrels are back on, just sit the motor on it four gearbox mounts, and thread the chain through using some gas welding rods as fishers.
CLEM
 
so far everyone is right ... take it out
my advice ... don't try to do it 'in' as I've tried and it's hard / nasty / fraught with problems
 
Thanks Clem and everyone, engine out it is
Going for an engine hoist, Paul’s chum makes it look easy
Clem, can’t see what the inner and outer gearbox covers clash with
is it easier to take the engine out to the left or right (sitting on het bike)
Thanks again, Richard
 
go and buy some suitable size plastic tube, spend some time cutting it into sections and then split it down the middle, wrap those pieces around the frame and secure with zip ties
These shots show an engine going in but I do the same when removing an engine

Best way I find is a suitable strap wrapped around the barrels with a strangle hold going back to a single lift point, engine balances very nicely

As stated above, lift engine at the front, drop engine down at the back, rear top lug goes below its mounting bracket, just
Does not really matter which side you remove the engine from but I am same as Maurice, find left side works better for me

Good luck


frame wrap 1

frame wrap 2

frame wrap 3
 
30 second job for 2 blokes knowing what they're doing. 30 minute torture for 2 that don't...

Oversize drain plugs and bent frames can throw a big spanner in the works, clearance is minimal at best.

piet
 
redax5 said:
As stated above, lift engine at the front, drop engine down at the back, rear top lug goes below its mounting bracket, just
Click to expand...

Spot-on advice and descriptions from everyone above, this bit from Red is pivotal. Until you do that you swear there is no way it can come out, but as Piet says, once you know the knack it's very easy. Up at the front, forward and down a bit at the bottom-rear till the top engine mount clears the notch under the frame's top-rear engine mount, and out she comes.
Here specifically:
51668637399_bca229155f_c.jpg
It's do-able with two blokes and some careful hand holds, but an engine crane and sling wrapped around the barrel to take the weight as per Red's photo makes it a lot easier and less likely to result in spinal surgery. Engine is about 80-90kg.

Careful getting too carried away once the engine is out, it's a slippery slope. But there's always plenty of help here or in your case ILOC / local owners if you are unsure of anything.
 
If you take the bike appart anyway, the easiest (even almost one person) way to get the engine out is to first dismantle everything else off of the bike, take out the rear wheel, the swing arm etc. etc. brakes - really everything off the bike what you see (while making sure the stand does not collaps - better support the frame or hang it to the sealing). The last thing you remove before the engine is the front wheel and fork. now that you have the bare frame with the engine (oil out, starter out, cam cover off), you losen all bolts except the ones at the lower end of the engine that tuck it to the frame, lay the whole thing on the left side on some layers of foam, take out all bolts and nuts that hold it to the frame and lift the frame off of the engine.

I did the same reversely when I restored my 1000 SFC (that time with the frame protectors that Red mentioned). was very easy...
 
taking the inner and outer gearbox covers off lets you gain a bit more clearance, the chain is off anyway, and when you reinstall you will have to leave them off so as to get the chain back on, it also makes it lighter, as does the primary side cover , clutch and chain, which I also remove, liekwise starter motor, they are going to get in the way sooner or later so remove it now, and make life easier, I was once told a story by a bloke who said he stripped the bottom end but left the primary case bolted on, yeah, OK then.
CLEM
 
pure bullshit
the same bloke said he got the head off in situ and didn't remove any studs, I saw the motor in the chassis, no head or barrels, with all the studs intact! what he didn't tell me was that he had installed it like that several years ago, and had no idea getting the head on would involve removing all of them.

to wrap the frame tubes, buy a length of washing machine outfall hose, and split it length ways with a stanley or craft knife, it is a convoluted tube and will spring open and snap onto the frame tubes a treat.

CLEM
 
Buy an old mattress put it on it"s side and take out the bolts lift frame,reverse order to put in back .Go to refuse tip and ditch mattress.
 
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