After hemming and hawing too long, looking for a more clever solution, I've decided to mount Executive panniers on my RGA Jota the same way the factory (and dealers, I suppose) did on RGSs, by milling a flat at the upper rear of the footpeg carrier and fabricating the same kind of stand-off for the 10mm stiffening bar that's used on the rack itself. It looks to me like that milling operation (if done perpendicular to the back face of the carrier) is likely to break completely through the outer skin of the carrier on the bottom, and then the load will be carried on a washer that spans several of the reinforcing ribs behind. Or is the milling done at an angle so as not to break through, and the back edge of the support ring on the standoff is beveled instead? Somewhere on the internet there is probably a reproduction of the instructions given to dealers on how to do this.
Executive rack mount, drilling the carrier
- Thread starter eabergman
- Start date
I tossed the factory idea quickly as being far to intrusive and tacky. A piece of angle alloy bolted to the rear end of the footrest hanger now carries the stand-off. Has worked fine for over 15 years. Should I ever decide to remove the panniers and rack, only 2 barely visible threaded holes will remain.
piet
piet
Ha! That's the idea I was playing with before thinking I'd keep it simple and just do what the factory did. I even have some angle iron pieces cut and marked where the two screw holes would go. OK Piet, I respect your experience in these matters. I'll do it that way. I am still curious how the "correct" system is done though.
All I've found in the way of mounting instructions is "drill a hole here" included in the parts list for the pannier/rack set.
The factory fitment is rather crude, didn't see any sign of milling...
I can post a pic or 2 this weekend, gotta get my barn roof finished first though.
piet
The factory fitment is rather crude, didn't see any sign of milling...
I can post a pic or 2 this weekend, gotta get my barn roof finished first though.
piet
chrisk
Hero member
- Location
- Brisbane, Australia
Laverda SF
Hero member
Piet: Just wish our members would explore more into fabricating their own Paner, Rack and Carrier mounts for Breganzies rather then using them useless things that pretend to be.
Last edited:
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
Neat
chrisk
Hero member
- Location
- Brisbane, Australia
Very neat.
Thanks for the photo, Piet. I'm almost done with my version of the same thing. I just need to attach the second bracket to the end of the carrier and do some creative shaping on the grinder. I'm not doing it in stainless, though. My machining capabilities are inadequate for that, and rust isn't such a problem here in droughty Colorado. What size screws did you use? I did the first one with two 4mm ones and I'm thinking about adding a third. Looks like you used two larger ones.
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
It's surprising what an M6 bolt into an aluminium thread will hold.
The rear wheel of my Kawasaki Z1300 has a car type rim so I can fit a car tyre (it has a sicecar so needs a tyre with a square profile). The wheel was created by cutting the original rim off the cast alloy wheel, and then bolting the car rim onto what's left of the spokes.
The wheel conversion job was done by sidecar guru Ian Souter (of Premier Sidecars in Melbourne) who'd done heaps of similar conversions. When I sent it to him, I was expecting something like a flange on the inside the rim and big chunky bolts (maybe M10) bolting sideways through the flange into each spoke, similar to the way a wheel bolts onto a car hub.
What I got was a steel rim with the inner flange cut out altogether and 1 x M6 drilled and tapped radially into the cut-off end of each alloy spoke. There are 5 spokes so only 5 bolts radially through the rim into alloy threads. When I saw it I thought it looked way too skimpy to hold together. I asked Ian whether he'd done conversions that way before. He said that was his usual attachment method and he'd never had one fail. I put it on the bike with some trepidation, and so far it's held up to all the punishment I can dish out to it. The whole outfit weighs close to half a ton, and I've put some pretty massive lateral loads on that wheel like towing a heavy trailer around corners at tyre-screeching speed, lifting the sidecar wheel in the air, etc. I still find it hard to believe that I haven't ripped the rim off the spokes.
The rear wheel of my Kawasaki Z1300 has a car type rim so I can fit a car tyre (it has a sicecar so needs a tyre with a square profile). The wheel was created by cutting the original rim off the cast alloy wheel, and then bolting the car rim onto what's left of the spokes.
The wheel conversion job was done by sidecar guru Ian Souter (of Premier Sidecars in Melbourne) who'd done heaps of similar conversions. When I sent it to him, I was expecting something like a flange on the inside the rim and big chunky bolts (maybe M10) bolting sideways through the flange into each spoke, similar to the way a wheel bolts onto a car hub.
What I got was a steel rim with the inner flange cut out altogether and 1 x M6 drilled and tapped radially into the cut-off end of each alloy spoke. There are 5 spokes so only 5 bolts radially through the rim into alloy threads. When I saw it I thought it looked way too skimpy to hold together. I asked Ian whether he'd done conversions that way before. He said that was his usual attachment method and he'd never had one fail. I put it on the bike with some trepidation, and so far it's held up to all the punishment I can dish out to it. The whole outfit weighs close to half a ton, and I've put some pretty massive lateral loads on that wheel like towing a heavy trailer around corners at tyre-screeching speed, lifting the sidecar wheel in the air, etc. I still find it hard to believe that I haven't ripped the rim off the spokes.
Cam,
Probably the exact mating of the surfaces and resultant friction holding it together more than the bolts themselves. Those are most probably high-tensile bolts. I doubt the variety you pick up at the local DIY store will hold up for much more than a gentle start on an incline.
Have a peek at the front suspension rods of a F1 car, rarely anything larger than M6 to be seen!
piet
Probably the exact mating of the surfaces and resultant friction holding it together more than the bolts themselves. Those are most probably high-tensile bolts. I doubt the variety you pick up at the local DIY store will hold up for much more than a gentle start on an incline.
Have a peek at the front suspension rods of a F1 car, rarely anything larger than M6 to be seen!
piet