Exhaust Stud threads & Tach Cable Routing 750 GT

[Evan]

As I am dealing w/ an aluminum block & head I always tighten nuts to studs one handed w/ a socket wrench. Don't want to overtighten. I give it a snug turn.
Now I have taken screws out before w/ aluminum flakes. Threads are wearing out. Then I clean out the cavity as best I can. One of the Valve adjustment Caps had to be re threaded! I'll try a quarter turn more.
Tach Cable falls out. Tried re routing going over on top of motor mount on frame. Made an S turn. Worked Ok for a while. Now it falls out again. There are washers on the bottom of the worm under the Cam cover. How many can you put in there? & would this cure it? I always thought the new Tach cables I bought were short...

 

[piranha-bro2]

Are your exhaust studs M7, Evan? The small valve head I bought from Wolfgang for my project bike had M7s. Some were stripped out so I upgraded all to M8, which is what SF1/2/3 all have. Triples have M7s. I never had a problem with sealing or loosening on my SF1 head. They come with brass nuts and mine are still the originals - you can give them a good hoik when tightening. The copper gasket will crush and require retightening after first use - it's no prob to use two gaskets either.
Others on here have had myriad problems with loosening ex nuts, and recommend tie wiring. I never needed it.

 

[Tippie]

The valve cap nuts originally had deep dome nuts and I have seen them replaced with short ones that grab the studs. Also those studs are longer on one end. The tacho cable, do you mean that the outer cable pulls out of the aluminium crimp? The cable at least on my SF is stopped from falling outside the tank by a short tab. There have been many different length cables too.