extracting bearings

michipons

michipons

Hero member
Location
Palma de Mallorca
Hi!

I started very motivated with my new bearing extractor kit.

Objective: remove all wheel bearings, and swingarm bearings.

Result: none of them extracted :(

With the wheel bearings I have the problem that the spacer between the bearing doesn't allow me to introduce the extractor properly, once I more or less do it, no way to pull them out. With the hammer extractor didn't work, with the screw puller (or whatever is called) eventually the extractor went into the bearing hole instead of extracting it... it extracted himself, great.

With the swingarm bearings, the tools can accomodate easily but after a minute of trying, my motivation was so low I decided to leave it for today, (it didn't move even a 0'01)

Any leads or advice how to remove them? (I still didn't use the old "metal bar from the other side and the biggest hammer in the workshop" method

Thanks and regards,
Miguel
 
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For the wheel bearings, heat the hub until they fall out. No extractor needed. Anytime you are removing a bearing from an aluminum housing cold, you are also removing a little bit of aluminum.

For the swing arm a large drift from the other side.
 
Miguel - a good quantity of boiling water will help your wheel bearings out, and there is less chance of damaging paint finishes

HTH, paul
 
Hi Paul,

unfortunately (or not) I don't have such a big cooking pot... ::) In any case I am removing the bearings because i want to repaint the wheel and install new bearings, so if they get burned or the paint gets damaged, is not a big deal, I think it must be easier to heat it with airgun or fire and repaint it that submerging the wheel in boiling water, or did you mean a different procedure?

Regards and thank you to all for your help,
Miguel.
 
Hi Miguel

Oh, I see, so direct heat is not so risky then.

My water method...

Put a large plug in the middle if the bearing (a bolt, a stick, anything). Then slowly pour a full kettle of water over the area. The plug is to stop the water falling straight through and so direct the water to the outside of the bearing and surrounding wheel. The bearing won't fall out as you only approach 100 degrees, but will be a lot easier to move. I usually knock them out from the opposite side with a drift.

Good luck.
 
When your wife is out, put the wheel on top of the gas cooker. Turn on the gas ring directly under the wheel hub. Leave for 5 minutes to heat evenly. Then take the wheel outside and tap it on the ground to shock the bearing out.  If you've removed the tyre, tap on a piece of wood instead.  Invert and repeat..the bearings will drop out.  If Loctite bearing fit has been used, you may need to use your puller to assist. 

Remember to open the kitchen window afterwards to get rid of the smell of burning grease!

I find the alloy wheel dissipates heat from a hot air gun too quickly.

Neat idea with the boiling water, Hag.  Nicky would certainly appreciate it.  :D  :D
 
I just removed my swing arm bearings.. Needle rollers..First side was troublesome..insufficient heat..used a  heat gun and piece of  rod as a drift but only succeeded in knocking out the inner race. Had to cut through outer with a Dremmel to get it out. The other side I used a propane torch, as it got hotter I noticed some  kind of grey adhesive oozing out behind the outer race.  Two good whacks with the same drift and out it popped in one piece.
I will be refinishing the paint so neat damage wasn't an issue for me.
Paul
 
I also use the gas cooker method for the wheel bearings. A small flame only touching the flange where the brake discs mount. The bearings will come out long before it is hot enough to damage the paint on the alloy wheels.
 
Hi Miguel you best prepare for a bit of a slog getting the old needle races out of your swinging arm, check that there is a little stepped washer inside the race to support the distance spacer, then arm up with a dremel or similar internal cutting device to slice through the outer race in order for it to collapse in and tap it out.
They seem to be a very tight fit in the swinging arm.
 
If you need heat on the job use a hair dryer , not water or flame , proper slide hammer gets them out , not a cheap shit one
 
Hi Mate

we welded a slide hammer on to my  swing arm ones, that got them out . When you come down to the shop for a coffee, i will take you to Guidet, they will have them out in 09 minutes the way we did mine
 
Hi all!

Thank a lot for your advices, finally they all went out, my neighbour Domingo, a retired yacht mechanic remove them the time I went home for a drink and came back. When I entered his garage there was a very suspicious burned smell..... :LOL: :LOL:

So finally with real fire they went out.

Todd, this visit is granted next week, promised!

by the way, some of the shims behind the bearing were bended to to the hummer hits, however I didn't find them in Paradies... is anyone supplying them? or should I use any shim? or none at all?

Regards,
Miguel
 
The shims keep the internal spacer centred, so the axle will slide straight through without messing about trying to get it aligned. They're also necessary to get the bearing spacing correct.
If you leave them out, the bearings will probably bind because of axial loading when you press them home, at least until they manage to wriggle themselves into the right spot where they would have been if the shims were there.

If yours are a bit beat up, you could hammer them back into shape rather than waiting weeks for new ones to arrive in the post. They don't have to look pretty as long as they do the job.
 
Actually , it would be good if someone could measure the shim, if they have one to hand, I have 3 Laverda I am working on that all need these shims, they were not in the bikes when I took them apart. I can get boxes of 25 shims in stainless of the required  OD , for 12 euros , If someone could let its know the thickness I would be grateful , then I can share them with Miguel
 
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