EZ-Pull Clutch set up for Jota

Lighter springs are not an option here. Forget it.
Kevlar plates offer great grip (proven on the racetrack) and don't suffer sticking clutch problems if the bike is not used for long periods.
 
I tried an inline gadget that worked great,for about 2 weeks till its internal cable broke.And then I fitted an extended lower lever and that stopped the HORRIFIC pull and spate of 3 or 4 clutch cables I would break a year down to now maybe 1 every 3 years.I would today use one of Parishes curved levers that don't require the cut on the outer case. I also have a 600 Pantah that has close to the Laverda pull and you cannot use a longer lower lever. On it I use an Aprilia purch and dogleg lever with a better geometry that takes the bigger nipal andmakes it more aceptable but still a bit harder than the Laverda with extended lower lever. I done regard the look of the lower lever an issue if it makes the bike 100% easier to ride for longer with no pain.
 
Grant said:
Lighter springs are not an option here. Forget it.
Kevlar plates offer great grip (proven on the racetrack) and don't suffer sticking clutch problems if the bike is not used for long periods.
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I know you've probably learnt this from bitter experience but I'm curious why, if something is "grippier" it has to be pushed together as hard?
 
Vince said:
I tried an inline gadget that worked great,for about 2 weeks till its internal cable broke
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Do you mean the cable to the lever? Where did you mount the box please?

https://www.24mx.co.uk/easy-clutch-system-1?dfw_tracker=24759-21427&gclid=CjwKCAjwzenbBRB3EiwAItS-u3yf77s79IlDBPmdpONSE4GbK-fltJv313VZikSE08zZx7HLGiZvcxoCFUwQAvD_BwE

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zSevtXlT5U[/youtube]

p441.jpg
 
....oh there's a cheapo one from China though it looks like you can't change the fulcrum.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/253319782321?chn=ps&var=552476777435
 
Thats it, its still in my shed. I mounted mine at the top,the main cable connected at one side and a short cable then goes to the bar lever, there stupidly complicated but I was desperate to use the bike as it should be but an hour of gear changes on a windy road would have my left wrist spasming and hurting to the max.After breaking its supplied 200mm cable and having another made I read a report in Classic Bike mag about some to me unknown Pom called Phil who made an extended lower lever kit.I had already done the same to a Montesa dirt bike but not knowing it could be also done to a Laverda as the cable link was inside the case and I had no idea you could cut a slot. I did Phils mod,after ringing him from Oz,my first Overseas phone call, by the way thats Phil Todd, and it was 100% better and thats whats still there 24 years later.I like Greg Parishes curved lever that doesn't need the case cutting.Shame it wasn't around 20 odd year ago.
 
olly said:
I know you've probably learnt this from bitter experience but I'm curious why, if something is "grippier" it has to be pushed together as hard?
Click to expand...

Grip and pressure are the key elements here.
I wouldn't say the Kevlar plates are any grippier, just behave differently on the limit to conventional friction plate material.

I maintain that a well tended system (new cable, least tight bends on cable routing, cleaned and greased pivot point) is not excessively heavy, does not destroy clutch cables and doesn't pump up your arm.

I fitted an extended lever arm to a customer bike and after use the owner agreed with me and reverted back to the original lever arm size.
Go hydraulic rather than fuck about with weaker springs.
 
We have been over this a lot,I love my extended lever and some hate them saying it shortens the friction point and makes getting neutral imposable. Mine works fine. To me it highlights how individual each bike might be.I know someone who also says I change gear to much as well.Anyway you now know both sides and can make up your own mind and enjoy what happens.
 
both myself and The Old Duffer, plus (maybe) Charley boy Greenstead use a triumph master cylinder from any 80's Triumph bike and you have an instantly lighter hydraulic clutch, not original, but very cheap, I have bought several M/C's for 15 quid, and been using one for about ten years,then just chucked it and fitted another, saving the original Brembo for posterity.
CLEM
 
Right - I'm going down the ?11.99 eBay route first...I'll report back of course - but it's going be a long long time in the future :( Bike sounds very poorly sick.
 
Sorry to hear you have elbow issues Wrongtrousers , i have the Dam racing EZ clutch set up on my Jota and i am very happy with it,made a world of difference to me and clutch pull is now very similar to my Japanese bikes.

Good luck with which ever route you choose  (bigthumb)
 
  Never liked the Hydraulic system as, having had a spill or two over the years and breaking a clutch lever or two - it's very cheap and quick to replace - especially when time is short between races etc. I've used the extended lever on all my bikes and, with a good adjuster on the handlebar end, don't suffer when the clutch heats up - just spin the adjuster a tad. Cables never break and no oil seals or cases ever give up the ghost. Due to my lack of wanting to throw loadsa money at my bikes I'm now using adjustable span Yam R1 levers and cables - dishing out a max of ?20 for the lot. As for being a wimp - I just say that, due to my exceptionally fine breeding, I have small hands  :D :D - Regards - Phil
 
nick7 said:
Go the whole hog and fit some cable operated brakes? :-*
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Not quite the whole Hog Nick - cable brakes don't work as well as hydraulic - cable clutches work better and ordinary owners can afford them too! - regards - Phil
 
I owned a 750 SFO for like 40+ years. The main reason that clutch cable gets stiff and breaks is DIRT in the Cable or dirty Clutch Disc's. That stupid Lead Plug in the Lever is a Big Culprit. GET RID of IT. Use a 3/8" stainless Nut, Drill a hole through it to match the cable dia - Leave the threads in the Nut. Round it to match the Lever hole push the cable through and splay it and fill the hole with either solder or lead - The cable will not Stretch through that crap lead plug witch eventually pulls throw.

Hang your cables approx every 3 years and drip varsol or SCOTCH through it and then ATF. Repair bruised or cracked plastic outer shell with Heat Shrink. If your cable is Kinked - Get a new cable.

All you need is your center Index Finger on your left hand to make a shift when the motor is running or just BANG IT - Different matter when the engine is not running.

Never had to change ANY cables on my SF0 in 40 years with a little maintenance.

That Clutch cable will break or pull throw that Lead Plug - Doesn't mean the cable is not repairable. Consider placing a spacer at the clutch arm as you are dealing whatever length of cable.

Always carry Vise Grips if you wanna get into neutral with a Breganzie after the clutch cable snaps at the Lever; other words,  use the Starter to get you moving ;o)

The SF has the same tranny as the the Jota.

Tell the truth the Breganzie Mechanical Clutch and Cable mechanism has to be one of BEST one finger levers I've ever used - Particularly at Hi-Revs - Just a twitch of your middle Left hand Index Finger.
 
When I bought my Jota 26 or so years ago, it came with a cable clutch assembly. I hated it from the first moment until now. The cable got longer and longer the hoter the engine got, there was a constantly changing release point of the clutch which you tried to compensate with that little adjuster wheel. Then you parked the bike, forgott to relax the system again and when you came back, the clutch cable had snapped. Great!

I changed everything to hydraulics once I got hold of a complete set. Since then, I only got stranded at the road side due to a leaking slave cylinder ones. Changed the O-Ring (which was in my wallet), pushed the bike to the next gas-station and got rid of the air in the system within 10 minutes. On one meeting, the ball in the slave-cylinder had given up. Cover off, removed the remainders of the old ball, put a new one in with lots of grease and put the cover back on. roughly 5 Minutes on the 1000 SFC.

Oh - one time, the mechanism welded itself together on the Jota and the overheated ball bearing in the slave piston drilled a hole into the piston (a common fault as a reslut of a dyno-session...). Asked a local guy if he could drill out that hole, cut a thread into it and glue a screw from the back side into it so its oil-tight. Done in 5 minutes, re-installed on a green-field, bleeded the sucker and off I went. I still have that piston, but exchanged it at home against a brand new one...

How many cables have people exchanged in 26 years of ownership? I have been to several Laverda-meetings and on tour with several other Laverda-riders. A broken clutch-cable road-side repair was always part of it. None of the hydraulic clutches ever broke during the meetings.

I love the hydraulic clutch system for 2 reasons: a) it does not change the actuation point and b) in combination with a 13mm pump, it is soooo much lighter while still precise.

 
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