Forks torque spec

78jotadave

78jotadave

Hero member
Location
Palm Desert, California. (near Palm Springs)
Just changd the fork seals went in piece of cake using the hot and cold method, put the seals in the freezer overnight and heated the tops of the sliders in boiling water, bit o lube and they went right in. Question, is there a torque spec for the allen head bolt that hold the slider onto the staunchion? How about the allens on the triple trees, torque specs?
  Thanks in advance. Getting ready for a 'no destination.1000 mile ride up Californias HWT 1' including a few tributary roads up and down to the One.
 
Hi!

If you mean the allen at the bottom of the slider, when I disassembled they were very tight, I thing as they were dry, it was easier to unscrew them, when assembling, all was clean and well oiled, I tighted them as much as I could, but the rod was rotating, making it very difficult, so I closed the top and with the spring force, was easier. Still, it was leaking oil, even i had installed a new copper washer. So finally I had to give it a good torque (as mush as I could) using this alternative method that I had on hand... not very orthodox, but it did the work as it hold the rod enough to give it acceptable torque, finally it was rotating anyway, but hopefully the torque will suffice. So if you can give it a nice torque, you are lucky!  :LOL:

Miguel

IMG_5609.JPG
 
Clamping bolts are M10, max. torque in alloy is 40Nm.  Bit OTT imho, 30-35Nm should be OK with oiled/greased threads.  Carefull with Ceriani yokes, these are often damaged when over-torqued.

A quick shot with a rattle gun on a low-ish setting is all I use for the stanchion to slider connection, negates the need to counter the damping innards.

piet
 
Installing or removing the lower bolt (rattle gun or no) is a lot easier with the spring, spacer and cap installed.  Agree rattle guns are great, my small and light Milwaukee 12V 3/8" drive one gets plenty of work.
 
you can get more pressure on the annoying rotating parts, by having the forks fully built including the top cap, and triple clamps up tight, then arrange a ratchet strap around the top clamp and onto the slide using a twist around a suitable place on it, e.g. calliper mounts, then ratchet the fork up to replicate road compression, try a hit at a time, and if it slips go a bit more, push any preload by hand as far as you can, because it not very far in moving before the ratchet strap drum becomes full of strap and then is jammed, coil bound if you like.
CLEM
 
Bloody good trip coming up for you there Dave. Lots of good advice re your job. I must be lucky, springs etc in and caps screwed in and they don't rotate inside at all, rattle gun the go otherwise.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top