free movement in triple clutch drum

mauricejota7604

mauricejota7604

Hero member
Location
Victoria Australia
I have been chasing an annoying noise in my 77 Jota and am now looking at the clutch drum there appears to be a lot of free movement of the clutch drum back and forward on the teeth on the friction plates I can almost simulate the noise by rocking the clutch drum back and forth on the clutch pack with the chains off.
There doesn't appear to be excessive wear inside the drum but the there is a big difference between the plates and the drum.
I assumed there should be little clearance in there how much slack should there??? be in there I also notice I have some friction clutch plates pointed and others that are flattened off at the tips.
 
The clutch drum is a bit worn, maybe also the teeth on the plates, assuming the bearings are good and the centre is not flopping around on the mainshaft. I am not aware of any changes to the friction plate tooth profile over the years or poor pattern plates, so not much can be done about it other than rooting around for some better friction plates and there are no new clutch drums left as far as I know, get the engine running a nice smooth tickover helps eliminate a bit of the noise other than that it has to be filed under character.  ;)


  Keith
 
One of Andy's duplex chains really runs a lot quieter than a triplex too.
 
i got one from wolfgang last year. he gave me no indication there was a supply issue....

hmmm, a perfect size part for 3D printing. anyone know what hardware and software are used for digital scanning?
 
jotacorsa said:
i got one from wolfgang last year. he gave me no indication there was a supply issue....

hmmm, a perfect size part for 3D printing. anyone know what hardware and software are used for digital scanning?
Click to expand...

  May be the perfect size for 3d printing but it would very quickly fall apart in use. Not too tricky to make, none of the Laverda parts are really but it would need a little investment. The main body of the drum is very simple and could be made relatively quickly either from a casting or machined from solid the only tricky bit is the internal spline, could be done one at a time on a conventional mill with a slotting head or even a lathe with an indexing fixture but the time taken to cut the splines would make the unit cost unviable commercially. Best to do a batch then have the splines broached in at a gear cutters. Not impossible to do but would need firm numbers before any metal was cut.
  Been fiddling around adapting a clutch from a modern Triumph Trophy 1200 usual time constraints of trying to make a living have curtailed that to under the bench for the moment but it is not impossible to do.... one day.


   
  Keith.
 
My problem is not the clutch drum there is next to no wear on the one I am using the issue is the clearance in mesh between the splines of the friction plates I will try and take a picture to demonstrate I am wondering if there are after market clutch plates circulating that just dont fit well
 
rattling on the splines Maurice..? I was thinking your drum shims were missing/worn etc.. dud plates if that's the case mate, especially if its a new drum/spline OK..

8)

 
I did a couple of experiments tonight with some of the friction plates I have some old originals and a sureflex plate the slack between the outer drum and the original plates were nothing like the sureflex plate I will attach a couple of pictures and hope you can see the difference from the photo.
 

Attachments

  • clutch drum clearance 001.jpg
    clutch drum clearance 001.jpg
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  • clutch drum clearance 002.jpg
    clutch drum clearance 002.jpg
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I reckon the plates that have crap tolerances are going to wear the splines pretty quick too Maurice. Give 'em to the kids to use as frizbees! :-*
 
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