Front wheel bearings RGS/RGA

M

Magnidec

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Barry WALES UK. 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿
Hello to all, a little advice required if anyone can help.
I’ve had my front wheel repainted and lacquered which necessitated stripping the rim completely.
Now I’m ready to rebuild but can't for the life of me remember which way the two thin large dished washers/spacers go.
The manual appears to show they go in first so they're on the inner side of the bearings, but which way round does the dish go ?
Again from the manual it appears the dish protrudes inwards toward the centre of the hub.
I guess the dish provides location of the spacer tube to rest on to centralise it all.

Is this correct ??

I don't want to re assemble to find they're the wrong way around ☹️

Anyway, I’ve bought new bearings and had them in the freezer. Heated up the hub with a heat gun, but my God the bearing is still tight.
Any other tips or tricks to get them in ?
Thanks for any advice.
Cheers
Howard
 

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Magnidec said:
I guess the dish provides location of the spacer tube to rest on to centralise it all.
Click to expand...
Correct. Your photo shows how the spacers are oriented.

Great news that the bearings are a tight fit. Usually they aren't 'cos owners simply knock 'em out and in cold.

The amount of alloy you're trying to heat up is too much for a heat gun to be useful due to conduction away from the hub. You need to pop a gas ring under the wheel hub for 5 minutes. o_O Obviously you will rightly be concerned about the effect of a gas flame on the new finish of your wheel! Depending on what the finish is, then be careful about the distance of the gas flame from the new finish.
 
Rob said:
Correct. Your photo shows how the spacers are oriented.

Great news that the bearings are a tight fit. Usually they aren't 'cos owners simply knock 'em out and in cold.

The amount of alloy you're trying to heat up is too much for a heat gun to be useful due to conduction away from the hub. You need to pop a gas ring under the wheel hub for 5 minutes. o_O Obviously you will rightly be concerned about the effect of a gas flame on the new finish of your wheel! Depending on what the finish is, then be careful about the distance of the gas flame from the new finish.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your confirmation Rob. Worried about the lacquer being new and soft, direct flame would surely affect. Others have used heat guns successfully. Will try again for longer, and a larger dia drift to act on the bearing perimeter. Thanks again.
Howard
 
I put the wheel on the gas cooker so the flame just touches where the brake disc mounts. Once water will boil when touching the hub it is time to drop the bearings in. Also I have seen a few wheels where Laverda did not mask the wheel properly and there is paint in the bearing bore which makes putting the bearings in very difficult. No force should be necessary to fit the bearings.
 
Magnidec said:
Cheers Paul. How long did you heat it for ?
Click to expand...
There's a joke from an old French comic where a military instructor asks "how long does it take for the canon barrel to cool down".
Nobody finds the answer which is " a certain amount of time".

Paul

PS: 5 minutes is more than enough centring on the bearing housing.
 
1200ts said:
I put the wheel on the gas cooker so the flame just touches where the brake disc mounts. Once water will boil when touching the hub it is time to drop the bearings in. Also I have seen a few wheels where Laverda did not mask the wheel properly and there is paint in the bearing bore which makes putting the bearings in very difficult. No force should be necessary to fit the bearings.
Click to expand...
No paint in wire wheel hubs, which is what the vast majority of Laverda motorcycles come with. Most have drums as well.
:)

Paul
 
Paul Marx said:
There's a joke from an old French comic where a military instructor asks "how long does it take for the canon barrel to cool down".
Nobody finds the answer which is " a certain amount of time".

Paul

PS: 5 minutes is more than enough centring on the bearing housing.
Click to expand...
Hi Paul. Wondering if the tyre is restricting rim expansion. New one just fitted and maybe reducing expansion. Still needs a lot of force to seat cold bearing in heated rim.
 
Magnidec said:
Hi Paul. Wondering if the tyre is restricting rim expansion. New one just fitted and maybe reducing expansion. Still needs a lot of force to seat cold bearing in heated rim.
Click to expand...
It's not the rim you want expanding but where the bearing sits.
Did the old bearing come out easily?
Paul
 
Paul Marx said:
It's not the rim you want expanding but where the bearing sits.
Did the old bearing come out easily?
Paul
Click to expand...
Everything expands from the hub outwards, but with a new tyre on the rim, the steel wire bead on inflated tyre would try to resist expansion making it more difficult. May have to take the tyre off to ease expansion.
No, the old bearing was very difficult to remove. New bearing 41.9mm Wheel hub 41.7mm. I've cleaned up the seating with 60 then 120 then wire wool but still tight. Tried a gas flame from plumber's bottle, will try a cooker ring next. Don't want to resort to brute force.
 
Magnidec said:
Everything expands from the hub outwards, but with a new tyre on the rim, the steel wire bead on inflated tyre would try to resist expansion making it more difficult. May have to take the tyre off to ease expansion.
No, the old bearing was very difficult to remove. New bearing 41.9mm Wheel hub 41.7mm. I've cleaned up the seating with 60 then 120 then wire wool but still tight. Tried a gas flame from plumber's bottle, will try a cooker ring next. Don't want to resort to brute force.
Click to expand...
You should be able to heat the bearing housing sufficiently and still put your hands on the rim.
Paul
 
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