Gear selector spindle thing..

AndyW

AndyW

Hero member
G'day,

Having just refitted a chain and inner/outer gear covers I now find the gearchange is totally wonky.. Stiff action: poor if not impossible to shift from 5th to 4th, assorted false neutrals etc etc..

Have been trying to follow the directions in Parker's, however, when trying to align the marks on the selector drum with the mark on the gear further in I'm uncertain which of the marks on the spindle drum to use.. any suggestions (keep it clean :o)  :D

rgds
AndyW :D
 

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Hi Andy,
I find it easier to put it together from the engine side not the cover.

notch needs to align with the other notch from the cog on the other side on the plate in where the gears are. did you do that? Sorry pardon my lack of explanation ability and terminology. Picture might help

10827-Gearbox_3C_005.jpg
 
you might need to adjust the eccentric screw to get it working right for all gears.
 
and which notch might that be?, I've got two sets on the spindle alone.. see pic

I've gone with the single mark as it has a bit of red paint in it as does the one on the inboard cog...

Golden Panda said:
you might need to adjust the eccentric screw to get it working right for all gears.
Click to expand...

and also set this as per Stevio Laverda's reply to a similar question back in... 2009

http://www.laverdaforum.com/forum/index.php/topic,40781.15.html

Rgds
AndyW
 
seems like you are on the right track. I would have guessed the red marking one too. Have you tried the other?

I would adjust the eccentric screw a little either way and see if that makes a difference.

I did the same on an '80 Jota some time ago according to similar instructions and it didn't work. ended up just adjusting the eccentric screw by trial and error until it was working right. got it sweet after a few minutes.
 
The word I got is to loosen the inner cover bolts and give it a sharp clout with a soft faced hammer downwards and towards the right foot. Then retry the shift mechanism.
 
Davo said:
The word I got is to loosen the inner cover bolts and give it a sharp clout with a soft faced hammer downwards and towards the right foot. Then retry the shift mechanism.
Click to expand...

Am about to give it a try otherwise I'll try this trick next: ended up using the single scribed mark and a combination of Joey's trial and error trick with the eccentric adjuster..

When I give the inner cover a clout does it matter where my right foot is?  :D

AndyW
 
Andy didnt you read my text the red mark it should mean you can only knock down one position for first you should see this by the number of pins available to pull down.
And yes make sure you can rock the gear with the pins as you tighten that inner cover they can tend to bind a little.
 
I like to spin the rear wheel and work the gear lever through the gears counting them as I go.The moving of the case eases any binding and then I check its all good with the above stuff.
 
AndyW said:
When I give the inner cover a clout does it matter where my right foot is?  :D

AndyW
Click to expand...

Preferably between the hammer and the case to prevent any dents in the metal.  :LOL:
 
mauricejota7604 said:
Andy didnt you read my text the red mark it should mean you can only knock down one position for first you should see this by the number of pins available to pull down.
And yes make sure you can rock the gear with the pins as you tighten that inner cover they can tend to bind a little.
Click to expand...

Yep, copy all that Turner Laverda :D, what is the other pair of marks for (again, refer to original photo up top somewhere)?
I've done all that and got most of my gears back (didn't get up to 5th going to/from the servo) though it's still VERY notchy and most difficult going down the 'box. Tried loosening off the inner cover (3 small bolts) and thwacking the cover downwards in the general direction of the stand's foot: can't see it moved any though.

Have done ~150 miles since the 'rebuild' and have rechecked clearances: have re-torqued the head (about 70-90deg of turn required) and seem to have lost 3 thou on #2 inlet already :o :o Otherwise engine is mighty crisp and much changed from before or when i took delivery (to be fair I was warned the shims needed doing and reckoned there was sufficient clearance all 'round to sustain the trip down to Bellingen (fail :o).

Am going to head out towards Gladstone this afternoon for a longer shakedown run.. hopefully the gears etc will last (can't imagine too many changes along the way: every 120miles perhaps ::)

L8rs
 
Andy, if it worked ok before you took it to bits it should still work ok without adjusting anything. I usuall lever the cover froward with a hammer shaft against the footrest whilst tightening up the bolts, that usually does the trick.
 
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