Grinding noize on over run

Can't believe you Vaporized that Exhaust Doughnut - I stack them at times - LOL

A garage is a poor man's Lamborghini.
 
An "over run" to me is entering a corner too fast where you are about to run outta asphalt and you need the nerve to slide off the seat, drag your knee, hit the bars in the opposite direction and deliberately Hi-Side while opening the throttle from disaster.
 
I got the bottom end back from Wolfgang last month.
He went through everything as well as the carbs and I had the head sent out to a machine shop to have the valve seats re-cut. All new seals, cam chain, cleaned out the sludge traps, some bearings, etc... replaced the clutch cush rubbers, overhauled the starter clutch,





I honed the cylinders and fitted new rings. Replaced the cam shaft bearings.



And then as I went to assemble the head onto the cylinders the wire I had tied the cam chain ends to broke and just like that half the cam chain disappeared into he bottom of the engine.  :o

So off with its head, pulled the cylinders off and exposed the pistons and rods.

Question - Can I pull the cam chain around the crank shaft gear by feeling through the removed oil screen and cover?

Any tips on how to get the cam chain back around the crank and the two ends pulled back up through the top of the case???
 
I once took  a 750 four apart because of a loose tank cap.
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I had to take the motor out of a Zane, because sometime in its past, a previous dork owner hadn't greased the threads of the plugs when it was serviced before putting them back in. Or as I suspect, the plugs had never been removed since new and it had about 18 thousand on the clock! Caveat Emptor as they say.  (nooo)
 
Not much help now I know but penetrating fluid left to soak for a few hours or days helps a lot.

I have saved plug threads before by reversing the direction of travel immediately if the plug picks up, then back the other way. If you keep going without reversing occasionally the thread will more than likely strip right out or seize solid.

I even do that with good plug threads as a precaution.
 
Canuck750 said:
Question - Can I pull the cam chain around the crank shaft gear by feeling through the removed oil screen and cover?

Any tips on how to get the cam chain back around the crank and the two ends pulled back up through the top of the case???
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Just pull it up with a couple of lengths of wire.

Wrong rebuild sequence anyway.  Remove the chain tensioner, you'll never get the chain ends to connect with it in place.

I'd fit the barrel and head first (without the tensioner).  Set the pistons at TDC and the cam accordingly, pull up the chain and place it over the timing sprocket to fit the connecting link.  You may need to tighten down the head to get the chain positioned correctly.  New chains can be a bit short... but luckily, only at one end :D

The starter is the last to go on...

piet
 
sfcpiet said:
Just pull it up with a couple of lengths of wire.

Wrong rebuild sequence anyway.  Remove the chain tensioner, you'll never get the chain ends to connect with it in place.

I'd fit the barrel and head first (without the tensioner).  Set the pistons at TDC and the cam accordingly, pull up the chain and place it over the timing sprocket to fit the connecting link.  You may need to tighten down the head to get the chain positioned correctly.  New chains can be a bit short... but luckily, only at one end :D

The starter is the last to go on...

piet

I had removed the tensioner prior to fitting the head / chain.

Unfortunately one end of the chain fell into the case so I just pulled the whole chain out.

Now I need to get the chain around the crank gear and out the other top side of the case.

Any ideas on how to pull the chain through one side and out the other?
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This one was way past that Simon, with a hot engine, penetrating oil, left it for a week, heating the thing up and letting it cool down, eventually the plug snapped and there was no way the stub was coming out. I gave it to a friend who spark eroded the remains out. As I said, I don't think they had ever been changed. Biggest pile of shit I ever bought. :(
 
Canuck750 said:
I had removed the tensioner prior to fitting the head / chain.

Unfortunately one end of the chain fell into the case so I just pulled the whole chain out.

Now I need to get the chain around the crank gear and out the other top side of the case.

Any ideas on how to pull the chain through one side and out the other?
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The bottom cover must be open (that one which also takes oil to the oil pump from the sump).
A steel wire can be stringed there from the head and therefore the other end of the chain raised up.

If the new chain feels still too short, there may be thicker gaskets than necessary (some gasket sets may have these). On this case you need steel washers, peaces of metal pipes and standard head bolt nuts to tighten the cylinder head a little bit without the top cover. It is enough to tighten it just a little bit, better not to tighten it to specs to avoid any defects to surfaces.
 
AndyW said:
Did we ever find out what was causing the grinding noise? ???
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I think it was the failed silent blocks supporting the mufflers on one side that caused the exhaust cross over centre clap to fail and the vibration was pronounced on the over run. Turns out the engine was in petty fair shape but tired and an overhaul was due.
 
I am puzzled by the plates on the primary chain, they should be parallel not wasted.

If it is a Renold keep an eye on it.

Also noted "floppy cam chain".

Andy 
 
All parts came from Wolfgang and he assembled the bottom end as well, cam chain has now been replaced.

I am crossing my fingers that I now have a very reliable SF.

It snowed last night so I doubt I will get the SF on the road this year to find out.
 
If the chain was tight to fit it was probably greased, degrease in petrol overnight, not very PC,
and you should be able to join it.
 
andychain said:
I am puzzled by the plates on the primary chain, they should be parallel not wasted.
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The chain would only be wasted if it's waisted.

One of us needs new spectacles Andy. The side plates look parallel to me.

No idea where Wolfgang gets his triplex primary chains, but given his reputation within the Laverda community, I would be surprised if he's sourcing crap chains.
 
Dellortoman said:
The chain would only be wasted if it's waisted.
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If the chain was 'waisted', it'd be called a belt ............ I mean; If a chain was holding up your jeans around your waist, it'd still be a belt.
Punk Rockers wear chain belts.
 
Dellorto, I did say he supplied crap, but there have been a problem with triplex
chain quality for years, hence the move to the Merc duplex, which can be obtained
from any Merc dealer (it will need shortening).

I am a share holder in Renold and my father worked for them in sales tech, but
the drop in quality, which is well known, is a fact and I will not sell it.

The only triplex I sell is the Italian Regina which seems to work on Vincents. The
rest of the bunch is now made to a price not a quality. Doing 10 miles a year on
a classic bike means you can put whatever shit you like on, but in my experience
of Laverdas most are ridden long and hard.

I dont make comments to increase sales, I am trying to wind down, I only try
to help. 
 
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