Grinding sound when press starter - RGS

Chappo said:
Thanks Paul, but I did leave out how I put the gear back into the rollers, that is almost an essay in itself.
I am getting around to including that in the 'how to' thread section.

I found a photo in the gallery, after I had mine back together, where someone had nuts pushing the rollers out wide, with fine wire on the nuts leading down through the centre, so they could be pulled out once the gear was in.
I thought it would take me longer to find nuts, and wire them, than it took me to get the gear in, but if I was doing them regularly, I'd want some sort of tool to make it less frustrating, and I'd go looking for nuts.

I used grease to hold the rollers in place (Red's tip, and the manual says it too), but I did not pack the plungers. I thought the engine provided the lube.
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all I have ever had to do to put the sprag back on the hub is grease the rollers into place, offer the sprag up to the hub and push in firmly so the rollers are pushing against the outer edge of the hub, then twist the sprag firmly so the rollers retract, and the sprag just slides on to the hub with the twisting motion. Just did it again the other day with the 82 1200 sprag, easy peasy

Paul LeClair
 
SimonR501 said:
I will be buying an electric impact wrench when I get around to it. No compressor to worry about. They are very powerful and now seem to be increasingly cordless.
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Trouble is if you don't use it regularly you will spend on replacing batteries, lithium ones are living longer these days, go for a 36 volt if you must, more balls
 
Paul LeClair said:
all I have ever had to do to put the sprag back on the hub is grease the rollers into place, offer the sprag up to the hub and push in firmly so the rollers are pushing against the outer edge of the hub, then twist the sprag firmly so the rollers retract, and the sprag just slides on to the hub with the twisting motion. Just did it again the other day with the 82 1200 sprag, easy peasy

Paul LeClair
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Sounds easy peasy Paul. I see now you were telling me this in your reply on the first page, but it didn't really mean much to me, because I hadn't seen one yet. By the time I had gotten to do the job, I had forgotten about what you had posted and came up with a way to get it back together.

I'm not going to pull mine apart to try the way you describe though, and I hope I don't end up having to try it. :)

Here is the photo I found in the gallery.
18145-Sprag_clutch_with_nuts.jpg
 
Hi Chappo

yeah, I have seen that photo before as well, extraordinarily complex "solution" to a problem that really does not exist. As the photo shows, the rollers have to be retracted a bit to be able to slide on to the hub. A bunch of nuts on wires is kind of....well.....nutty ;)

easiest as I have described, just grease, push and turn while under pressure, the rollers will retract and the sprag slides right on to the hub, I have done it dozen's of times now.

so, how did you do it?

Paul LeClair
 
Paul LeClair said:
so, how did you do it?

Paul LeClair
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Using the 'head' end of tie-wraps (cable ties) in the same way as the M6 nuts, except with tie-wraps it's easy to grab the 'tail' ends with a pair of pliers and gently ease them out.
Successfully managed this method on Scrumpy's Series 2 Jota in the hotel car park on the Isle of Man.... :D
 
I'm sure my sprag clutch had a thin steel cover* over the rollers- is that a later one in the pic?  I just assembled it all, offered it up and a 1/8 turn in the 'wrong' direction to retract the rollers while pushing it in and on it went.

*I found one in 3 pieces lurking at the bottom of the housing where all this goes.  Would have been interesting if it had got caught up in something spinning round... :o
 
Paul LeClair said:
so, how did you do it?

Paul LeClair
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I laid the alternator flywheel on the bench, with the rollers facing up.

I put the rim of the gear inside of three rollers, with the gear tilted up, I put the hooked tool you can see in the photo of the rattle gun and pushed the next roller back and that got four of them on the outside.

I then pushed the gear down so it was sitting on top of the last two rollers, put my finger down the centre hole and got the last two pushed back. Had to do a bit of manoeuvring of the gear while I was pushing about with my finger.

It took me more than a few goes. It took about twenty minutes to half an hour, I think. I didn?t check the time, but that?s what it felt like.
 
I'll resurrect this thread with a follow up question on getting the alternator rotor off the taper.
I don't have an M16x1.5 bolt at the moment so I'm using the front axle. I've been leaning on it as hard as I dare while holding the rotor with a c-spanner but the bugger won't shift.
It's very tempting to give the end of the axle a firm tap but it sounds like that might be frowned on.
Earlier in this thread Chappo says he used a rattle gun on a bolt. There were no comments about it, so is this a better idea?
Or is there another way?
 
Take your front axle to a bearing/bolt shop and ask for a bolt about 10cm long with the same thread. On your way home buy or rent a rattle gun.
The alternator will just pop off and you have only put a radial load on the crank, do not feel tempted to use the axle and give it a tap, bearings do not like being hit with a hammer.
It is really is the only way to do it with any mechanical sympathy, the other way is a bodge.
 
Legs said:
Take your front axle to a bearing/bolt shop and ask for a bolt about 10cm long with the same thread. On your way home buy or rent a rattle gun.
The alternator will just pop off and you have only put a radial load on the crank, do not feel tempted to use the axle and give it a tap, bearings do not like being hit with a hammer.
It is really is the only way to do it with any mechanical sympathy, the other way is a bodge.
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Yeah good. I just bought a rattle gun yesterday for the holding bolt 😁, which I also couldn’t get off. Rattle gun made it very easy 👍
 
Bingo! Proper bolt fixed it, although I wouldn’t want to use any more force on it. Found a lot of locking compound on the taper which can’t have helped. Anyway I got it off in the end without damage.
I only did all this to check the sprag, the starter was working fine. Found two chipped rollers and one broken spring 👍. Thanks Piet for suggesting it should be regular preventative maintenance!
 
I was watching one of those Car TV shows on TV the other night, The Guild set in Canada and they had a Honda 600 early 60s open sports car in with starting issues, it had all of these very experienced pro restorations and vintage mechanics scratching their heads. And yep it was the sprag, none of them had ever seen anything like it before. The only spares available were plungers and springs, they needed to pannel beat its housing as well. Made me laugh, obviously no Laverda owners amongst them. The next show with a slight upmarket theme was the 8-month rebuild and colour change back to concourse of a recently bought $10,000,000us 1930s Bugatti. Talk about kid gloves to work on. Made me think of Julian's stuff. It took 2nd place in class at Pebble Beach at the end of the show. Some for a change some interesting TV
 
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