Grr...

OneThinBloke

Hero member
Location
Oxfordshire, UK
I have spent much of the day doing the 500 mile head re-torque and servicing on my Eagle. As I am sure you all know, on the 750 twins this is not a five minute job as it involves swinging the motor down, pivoting on the lower rear engine mount bolts with the front end supported by a trolley jack in order to access the inside head bolts.

The engine is now bolted back in, however I have made a big mistake. Grr... The torque figure I have used is that given in the "Green Book" i.e. 25.3 ft/lb (34 N/m)...

I have since read that this should be 36ft/lb (49N/m). Grr, Grr.

Tomorrow I guess I do it all again... and when I take the photos I WILL remember to put a card in the camera, Grr...

Grr
 
So it depends on which edition of the Green Book you use...the new one quotes 36 lb/ft on page 61, but like you James I was using the old one when I put the head back on my GTL. No wonder the head gasket was seeping.  >:( >:( >:(
 
James my would be 77 Jota engine is fucked from top to bottom so cheer up. I'm seriously thinking about parting out the bike.
 
motoddrob said:
What's the head like?? The vultures are circling!!

Have named my Eagle "the Huntress" due to her hunting ability and prowess in dispatching the partridge, much enjoyed by Clem, his son and I before riding to Switzerland...

J
 
yep that ceratinly was a nice bit of meat,
cant wait for thre odd "huntressed" phasant or two but try not to despatch any Roe or fallow.
might ned more than a retorque after that.
dont forget to back off every bolt 20 degress before reapplying the correct torque.
CLEM
 
3patC said:
James my would be 77 Jota engine is fucked from top to bottom so cheer up. I'm seriously thinking about parting out the bike.

Is it a stainless front fender? If yes, what condition is it in? Very interested.
 
Mike, set yourself up with the torque wrench preset to the correct torque, also set yurself up with another socket and tee bar + extension etc, for each bolt,or nut, before you retorque, use the plain socket to "undo" the nut by no more than 20 degrees, this releases any stiction,do one nut at a time, then retorque each nut in turn (cirrect order) with the torque wrench and not one of those bendy lever/quadrant things, but a proper professional and expensive one, with the torque setting no where near the minumum end, IE for a torque of 25ft/lbs a 20 to 150 wrench would be unreliable, persoaally I like the Snap On ones that just click, the later ones that vibrate as correct torque approaches and then release may well be better, but annoying when the battery is flat..

This is not the same technique for the initial, first time torque for a head, which should be done in the correct order and pulled down in 5 ft/lb increments until desired torque is reached (wreached?) then left overnight and a retorque done as above, then again following something like twenty hot cold cycles.
CLEM
 
Davo said:
3patC said:
James my would be 77 Jota engine is fucked from top to bottom so cheer up. I'm seriously thinking about parting out the bike.

Is it a stainless front fender? If yes, what condition is it in? Very interested.

Davo - I thought you bought that Italian one back in July? How many front fenders do you need?

H. (Also looking for a front mudguard.....but not desperate).
 
Harry Lime said:
Davo said:
3patC said:
James my would be 77 Jota engine is fucked from top to bottom so cheer up. I'm seriously thinking about parting out the bike.

Is it a stainless front fender? If yes, what condition is it in? Very interested.

Davo - I thought you bought that Italian one back in July? How many front fenders do you need?

H. (Also looking for a front mudguard.....but not desperate).

Got gazumped at the last second by some fucker who is probably on this board and grinning now through their ratty little teeth - just joking.

Mine just has grind marks on the leading corners where some prat sent it down the road - not me. Considering getting the front cut back and new edge rolled in. Nobody but a true anorak wearing rivet counter would notice it was 10mm short.
 
Back
Top