Handling thread - reprise

Because I got them to do the chroming, and they had to extract a snapped off stud it cost more than normal.
It was a couple of years ago now, so I am not 100% sure.
Something in the region of 400 pounds comes to mind.

Hopefully someone else will chip in with their cost, as I am not sure mine is correct.

Like I said it looks standard. The only difference you can see (if you look hard) is that the fork top nuts are different.

Wolfgang also has new stanchions.
 
Was that per leg Grant?  :D

Full cartridge job with rechromed legs and shined up sliders is ?700 + Last I checked.

A well sorted set of Cerianis do work quite well as standard, lots of them are put together wrong as the picture in the manual is quite misleading.
I used to use Fitforx for all of my hard chroming but they have sadly ceased trading, just about to try another lot. Will report back.

I also have new Ceriani stanchions in stock.


  Keith.
 
I used HCP&G (hard chrome plating and grinding) for the forks on my Corsa, they took forever, cost more than they said it would (why?) when there were no changes, nothing bent, jusy a little pitted and the legs came back with visible cross hatching that I dislike, if they can be polished out when new, why not when aftermnarket and done by hand, it is after all only cylindrical grinding in reducing stages of grit !
CLEM
 
Like I said, it was a long time ago.
Christ, I can't remember what I did last week...  :o
 
Hi all,

I pulled the forks back apart last night, and rolled the tubes on a plate of glass.

I can't for the life of me see the bend! I don't know whether the damping mechanism or something else is binding up - empty, both fork legs will slide into the outers with the seals fitted under their own weight.

I reassembled and found that if I turned either fork leg relative to the outer it would reach a position when it no longer fall into the outer under its own weight (top cap removed and no spring but all damping internals fitted).

So I've aligned the fork tubes so they will fall back and will refit them to the bike like that. The chrome on both legs is worn, and both legs MAY be bent, but less than 1/2 mm along their length. With careful assembly it should work fine.

I'm going to strip for paint and fettling in a year or so, so I'm happy to have it working like this in the meantime - I'll have a think about originality and my fork options generally in the meantime.

Can someone let me know how much oil I should stick in the forks? My green book is packed up currently (just moved house....)

Thanks and best regards,

Chris
 
Chris

What you describe is very common, virtually undetectable bends same in both forks, I hate to think how many bikes are just like yours. All it takes is one very minor front end impact, something like gently running into the back wall of your own garage while pushing the bike around, and you get a gentle curve in both forks, hard to find with a straight edge. Fortunately the solution is easy and cheap, although you do have to have the forks dismantled. Take the bare staunchions to an engineering shop and have them check them for straightness with a runout gauge and a set of V-blocks. ANY halfway competent operator can have your forks back to <0.1mm runout in a matter of minutes using a hydraulic press, they might not even charge you ( ::)) if you've been going there for a while anyway.

Ken
 
A.M.Philpots rechromed/reground the stanchions of my then M1R forks and did a great job, I'd use them again no hesitation. FitForx used to have a reputation for 'creative' prices and H.C.P.& G. had one compared to dropping a pebble down a well and waiting for the splash !.
 
jotacorsa said:
it is certainly worth weighing the cost between straightened/rechromed v new
in america http://www.frankmain.qpg.com/ is the only place i'd go if i can't find genuine NOS
there are a lot of "new" tubes around, enough to be suspect of their point of origin
frank's are made in house
cheers,
scott
Click to expand...

Scott,

This sounds interesting. What sort of money do they charge for Laverda tubes? The US is a good place for us Aussies to buy from at the moment seeing as all of us apparently either own a coal mine or an iron ore deposit.

Chris
 
cwis said:
Can someone let me know how much oil I should stick in the forks?
Click to expand...

The exact amount of oil is not critical as long as there's enough to flood the damping valves, but not so much as to limit fork travel (partial hydraulic lock), and the same in each leg. You can add more if you want stiffer forks (less air space above the oil). As a guide, the nominal quantities (per leg) of 10 wt oil are:

Ceriani 38mm  210cc
Ceriani 35mm  170cc
Marzocchi 38mm  400cc (need to check this because it sounds like too much, but that's what the Marzocchi manual says. Bevelheaven site says 230cc. Maybe someone else has better info)

If all else fails, just fill them to about 50mm above the top of the damper rod with forks fully extended (no springs).
Take it for a ride and see how it feels.

Cheers,
Cam
 
mine are in at rad hard chroming in brisbane-straightened,re-chromed,sliders powder coated and re-assembled-550 aussie bucks



 
One seal per side is absolutely fine, I have ran with only one for a long time now, if you think about it if one seal was prone to blowing under heavy braking then there would be an ever increasing amount of oil above the lower seal in everyday use. I think the double seal idea was designed to prolong the life of the lower seal by acting as a wiper.

    Keith
 
well I have seen Keith ride a few times and I seriously doubt that you are faster than him, either "nipping down the shops" or 1000+ mile trips in a single day, dont forget that to get to Dover he has to do 600 miles, then Breganze is another 900 after Calais. I was with him on two 100 mile rides a few weeks ago, I only saw him at the start of the run, and then again when he stopped for fuel , and then again when the front runners stopped to read a map.Have you checked out his shredded tyres, and this a road bike!!!
CLEM
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top