head assembly

E

Evan

Full member
Location
Texas
Tried tapping in the inner bearings. Froze cams & put the bearings in the oven. Only got so far using PCP pipe & they began to get tight. So I left them where they are. One mechanic told me bearings can be tapered. These are NTN Japan from the dealer. Ok should I go ahead and tap them on? Or should I take them out & see if these are tapered? then maybe they have to come off so I can freeze cams & heat bearings.
 

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Evan said:
Tried tapping in the inner bearings. Froze cams & put the bearings in the oven. Only got so far using PCP pipe & they began to get tight. So I left them where they are. One mechanic told me bearings can be tapered. These are NTN Japan from the dealer. Ok should I go ahead and tap them on? Or should I take them out & see if these are tapered? then maybe they have to come off so I can freeze cams & heat bearings.
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I would try tapping them on. By tapping the inner race, never the outer. Or find a neighbour with a press.
Taking them off would likely mean having to get a new set.

Paul
 
I always use a press and have never used heat and cold in that application. Press with a tube on the inner race. They will not be tapered. C3 bearings there as specified.
 
Manual & Grn Bk makes everything look easy. On youtube Laverda Sf 750 3rd part approximently 1:38 minutes into the video shows the bearings already on but did not show tapping them in. So go ahead & tap all 4 bearings in place before sliding the cams together... & he uses the heat gun to join the cams . Seems easy enough. Will try again. Little cold today. I have done bearings but not cam bearings.
Then the collets on top of the valves are in place but only 1 is evenly split @ the cone top. Others are one wider than the other side. A mechanic told me that should be Ok.
 
I would never try the tapping method to fit press fit parts - even though it will work with enough brute force. At the very least I'd make a 'hand press' using strong steel or alu plate, a sleeve to apply pressure to the INNER races of the bearings and all thread or long bolts to allow you to gradually screw the bearings into place. Much easier to use a press but I realise it's not always available to everyone.
 
One thing is the bearings, but your flanges must have enough interference that they need to be pressed on, if you can hit them on they will not be tight enough.
 
I found a press & the bearings are in. Filed the old key & now need to fit the cams together in the head. Press is a vertical one & won't work for the head. Can the cams be tapped over the new key? Manual shows a hammer used. New Key does not go in slot easily. Would have to be tapped hard. And then would I file the new key for an easier fit?
 
You don't need a press for the head!! You need the press to fit the flanges onto the cams, with the key fitted in one of the sides. Warm up the head, fit one of the cam assemblies so the bearings are in just a little way in and thus perfectly aligned. Fit the other side, align the key with the slot in the non-key side, tap away with a copper hammer (something heavy to stop side you're not hammering from coming out again) and you will find that the two halves just go together sweetly.

Don't forget to fit your three studs before you start pushing the halves together!! The star washers (Schnoor washers are better) and 9mm long nuts can be fitted afterwards. Two 9mm open enders to do finish off the tightening and job done.
Don't overthink it!!
 
Evan said:
I found a press & the bearings are in. Filed the old key & now need to fit the cams together in the head. Press is a vertical one & won't work for the head. Can the cams be tapped over the new key? Manual shows a hammer used. New Key does not go in slot easily. Would have to be tapped hard. And then would I file the new key for an easier fit?
Click to expand...
Evan, where abouts in Texas are you? I am up close to Lubbock.
 
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