Head off in frame

mauricejota7604

mauricejota7604

Hero member
Location
Victoria Australia
I suppose this has been covered before but do the head studs on an SFC1K have to be wound out for a head off in frame and do they clash with the top frame tubes or is it a motor out job?
Thanks,
M.
 
Just whip the motor out Maurice. By the time you fanny about pulling studs etc. you can have the engine on the bench, it is not good practice to remove the cylinder studs unless absolutely necesary.


  Keith.
 
It's been said 1000 times.  Regardless of which bike it is, take the fucking engine out.  100% easier.
:-)
Is it Tom, or you?  SMS'd Tom for a ride yesterday, might explain why he didn't respond...

Cheers
Steve B
 
Well, I'll answer the question and don my tin hat again.  You do need to remove the 6 long head studs to get the head off in frame.  You'll need to unbolt the coil assembly to fiddle the centre stud out past the main frame tube. 

I've done this successfully on both 180 and 120 motors - neither needed helicoils or timeserts afterwards!  It's only 'easy' to take a 120 motor out if you have taken the precaution of greasing the front engine mount stud before it corroded into place!  :P  Three Shredded Wheat for breakfast also helps if you're trying to lift the engine by yourself.

Here's a useful thread (ouch) http://laverdaforum.com/forum/index.php/topic,56128.msg103267.html#msg103267
 
while I agree with Steve B that it is easier to take the engine out to deal with the head in most cases, and I usually do, a couple of weeks ago I pulled the head off the RGS with the engine still in the frame, and replaced the head with the engine still in the frame. I was working alone as usual, but for whatever reason I just couldn't bring myself to deal with the engine removal and re-installation that particular day, it is easy enough to deal with the head with the engine still in the frame, and each time the engine studs have been in and out of that RGS motor I have given them a really liberal coating of antiseize, so they come out and go back in easy enough, no problems.

Paul LeClair
 
  Every time the studs are removed the fit of the thread is affected, all screw threads are not equal regarding size and fit that is why you can run the cylinder head nut on with your fingers and crankcase studs (should) stay put, there are books full of ISO standard internal and external thread dimensions, they were fitted at the factory with a light interferance. If I have to remove studs to open up a set of crankcase mouths for example I quickly warm the case adjacent to the stud before removing, to refit I give the stud ends a squirt with the C02 fire extinguisher (also dead handy for fitting valve guides) Wind them in and out at your peril, it is a recipie for eventual stripped threads which take a bit longer to fix than just pulling the motor out in the first place.....


    Keith.
 
and Paul, didnt you say elswhere that you were Timecerting some crankcase studs,must have been because of damaged threads then, surely, I realy do hope you didnt do that with the bottom end in situ, no matter how carefull, it cant be done "cleanly"
CLEM
 
not exactly straight through,
in that, (from factory) the studs will bottom out, but they do have holes at the bottom of the pockets into the cases, just smaller than 9mm.

If you have ever been unlucky/lucky enough to remove those 9mm studs  that are untouched from when they were installed at the factory, you will hear a very loud crack, and you will wish that you were not removing them.

Very annoyingly I recently sent a pair of 1200 cases for vapour blasting with all studs intact, I am 100% certain that this motor had never been previously stripped, I deliberately and clearly, asked the cleaner not to remove the cylinder studs, and had bolted in (hard) a stud or bolt to every single thread in the cases including the 5mm ones for the oil pump.When they came back the cylinder studs had been removed, because he said it was "too awkward in his cabinet" and any way "they all came out easily with a proper stud extractor", funny that two of them had a distinct wind to them,so they wanted to bend rather than loosen? it also meant I had to clean the threads with a 9mm tap,which I did not posses,and this risks removing metal in the cleaning process, I was not a happy bunny, for compensation he cleaned the three exhaust rose that I had left at home the first trip, for free, still not happy, looking for someone with a bigger cabinet.
CLEM
CLEM
 
i seem to recall having to pull a RGS head and only needed to remove the cam studs on one side to slide it out
head stud removal not required ...i don't recall if i unbolted the engine to let is sit on the frame rails but that will allow extra clearance on the 120's

this does not apply to 180's
 
If you removed the rubber mounts and let the motor drop onto the frame rails, why didnt you just lift it clear and give yours self a bit more space?
CLEM
 
4657582372_05cb722f17.jpg

What do you mean you can't - :o
 
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